I found an elk load my rifle likes!

Paul B the nosler tech I talked to said to seat the ablr .050 from the lands. Really tightened my groups up.
 
I think you made a wise choice going with 180's over 165's. I have no doubt that 165's of the same construction would work. Even a good 150. But unless your rifle just won't shoot the 180's there isn't any real down side.

I used to stay with 150, or 165's in my 308's but after experimenting with 180's probably won't go back.

The better BC's of the heavier bullets make up for their slower muzzle velocity. My best hand loads show 165's leaving the muzzle about 100 fps faster than 180's. But at 400 yards the 180's are faster, only drop 1.5" more, and have more energy at all ranges.

If I can compensate for 31" of bullet drop with 165's, then 32.5" isn't enough to matter. The extra weight, velocity, and energy of the heavier bullet may, or may not help. But it sure won't hurt, and since there are no negatives, why not.
 
I'm going to the range tomorrow to practice some 200 yard shots, and to get off the bench and shoot from field positions.

Frankly, I'm limited to a max range of 200-250 yards with my present shooting ability. I've finally found a really good outdoor range (Fort Carson) that has much longer available lanes, but I'm going to have to work on longer distances in the future.

But I agree about the higher retained energy of the 180's and the insignificant increase in drop compared to the 165's at longer ranges. At least that's what I think I observed from federal's ballistic table.
 
I'm getting better every time.
It was windy today, we had a front move through with rain.
On a whim, I tried the core-lokts from a rest at 100 yards. They produced a 1" 3 shot group this time. I'm going back to the range again next week! At least I can use either ammo, and the core lokts are a lot less expensive for practice ammo.

I had no idea how well my rifle would shoot the 180's until this year.
 
This year:
A Marlin/Glenfield 336 hybrid built from the parts box, with a barrel reamed to .307 Win. Factory Winchester 180 gr ammo. I haven't worked up a handload, yet, and the factory stuff shoots just a bit over MoA. Good enough for now.

Ruger 77 Mk II .270 Win. 140 gr Partition handload, leaving the muzzle at a rather sedate 2,790 fps. There's nothing impressive about it on paper, unless that paper is the target. "Old Reliable" ...needs a little lovin' and some time out of the safe.

Marlin 336 rebuilt as a 444, and customized. Hornady Superformance 265 gr ammo, backed up by a homebrew load with a 275 gr swaged bullet (.40 S&W case as the jacket).
 
.307 Winchester was introduced in the early '80s, as a step up from .30-30 in lever guns.
It's basically .308 Winchester with a .30-30/.444 diameter rim, and loaded to lower pressure with flat-point or round nose bullets, due to the actions for which it was intended.


Here's a picture from a 'cartridge quiz' thread we had going a while back. .307 Win is the one in the center (6th from each end):
From left to right, with .307 and other lever gun cartridges in bold: .375 Remington Ultra Magnum, .30-06 AI, .475 Tremor, .444 Marlin, .44 Rem Mag Thompson Center "Hot Shot", .307 Win, .444 Marlin (single shot), .30-30, .577-450 Martini Henry (dummy, from 24 ga shot shell), .480 Ruger, 6x45mm / 6mm-223

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I use heavy Garrett cartridges in 45-70 or a scoped 460 with corbon 395 grain. both hard cast lead bullets. reason i prefer these is that the bullet kills quickly and the meat is not damaged. meat is good up to the hole assuming i do place a good shot.
 
Talked with Sierra Balistic Tech some years age, they recommended pulling my 165gr SGK Spitzer boattails and substitute in the 165gr SGK-HPBT as the HP's were studier construction and give better penetration.

Neve got a chance to use em.
 
Excellent. Keep doing it. Also remember that Dry-Fire Drills are your friend. Snap in every day. Dry-fire will increase your skills a LOT and life fire will validate your progress.
 
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