I finally got my Vortex. (Schweet!)
- Thread starter WWWJD
- Start date
I can see an argument go both ways for a "hard zero" stop vs. a "soft zero"... don't know if those terms exist, so I made something up.
If you zero at 100 yards, then a hard zero would be applicable. You're not going to want to adjust to anything below that, so yeah, put the brakes on the turret at true zero.
But, the guy who zeroes his rifle at something else, say 400 yards, or 600 yards... there's a need to adjust down (if you want to shoot without a hold-under). My zero is on the light side of this argument at 200 yards. With the soft zero, I know that at 100 yards I need to dope down 7/10ths of a MIL. Honestly, inside of 200 yards it really wouldn't matter (what's 2" anyway?). But for the cat shooting beyond 500 and up to a grand, the zero at 500 and room to dope down makes sense to me.
Same goes for someone who's zeroing based on point blank range; all of them are different. The PBR for my .308 is somewhere in the neighborhood of 260 yards on a 6" target. I can still argue for the need for a dope down, especially if I'm shooting for groups and going for a bullseye; then I can use my known PBR and leave the dope alone for shooting at Whitetails.
RE: Arizona.. what am I shooting in total darkness? Lol.. nothing. But I tell you what; when you're trying to hit something 20 minutes after sundown against a dark background... you're going to appreciate that shiny red crosshair.
If you zero at 100 yards, then a hard zero would be applicable. You're not going to want to adjust to anything below that, so yeah, put the brakes on the turret at true zero.
But, the guy who zeroes his rifle at something else, say 400 yards, or 600 yards... there's a need to adjust down (if you want to shoot without a hold-under). My zero is on the light side of this argument at 200 yards. With the soft zero, I know that at 100 yards I need to dope down 7/10ths of a MIL. Honestly, inside of 200 yards it really wouldn't matter (what's 2" anyway?). But for the cat shooting beyond 500 and up to a grand, the zero at 500 and room to dope down makes sense to me.
Same goes for someone who's zeroing based on point blank range; all of them are different. The PBR for my .308 is somewhere in the neighborhood of 260 yards on a 6" target. I can still argue for the need for a dope down, especially if I'm shooting for groups and going for a bullseye; then I can use my known PBR and leave the dope alone for shooting at Whitetails.
RE: Arizona.. what am I shooting in total darkness? Lol.. nothing. But I tell you what; when you're trying to hit something 20 minutes after sundown against a dark background... you're going to appreciate that shiny red crosshair.
Palmetto-Pride
New member
Sounds like some of you guys want your cake and eat it to, geez I guess they need to make a scope that you can have multiple zero points. Why not just have the zero stop set at the closest distance you will shoot at say 100yds and just go up from there.
I think that's what just about everyone does.
Honestly, if you're just shooting steel, it makes little difference where you're zeroed.
We never shoot less than 200, so that's where we're zeroed (no "stops' on the scopes).
I really don't see the advantage for zeroing at longer ranges, even if that's all you intend to shoot. If you hunt, you never know where the shot will present, so most hunters zero for MPBR. If you shoot paper or steel, you have all the time in the world to spin the little turret, so who cares if you can knock off a revolution on it.
There might be situations where a down-angle base is installed, limiting the distance to what you can zero. I haven't encountered it yet with 20 minute bases, but I would bet it's a probability that a 30 minute base might eliminate 100 or even 200 yard zeroes with some scopes?
The only thing I was trying to ascertain was whether the Vortex zero stop was precise in it's return point, whether it be at "zero", or somewhere else.
Honestly, if you're just shooting steel, it makes little difference where you're zeroed.
We never shoot less than 200, so that's where we're zeroed (no "stops' on the scopes).
I really don't see the advantage for zeroing at longer ranges, even if that's all you intend to shoot. If you hunt, you never know where the shot will present, so most hunters zero for MPBR. If you shoot paper or steel, you have all the time in the world to spin the little turret, so who cares if you can knock off a revolution on it.
There might be situations where a down-angle base is installed, limiting the distance to what you can zero. I haven't encountered it yet with 20 minute bases, but I would bet it's a probability that a 30 minute base might eliminate 100 or even 200 yard zeroes with some scopes?
The only thing I was trying to ascertain was whether the Vortex zero stop was precise in it's return point, whether it be at "zero", or somewhere else.