I finally got my Vortex. (Schweet!)

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WWWJD

New member
Got the Vortex 4-16x50 FFP MRAD this morning, got it bolted down tonight. Stuck with what I knew; EGW 20MOA rail, Burris XTR low rings. I did a little write up on the one I got by mistake on Friday; don't really have anything to add to that. So far I'm pretty happy with my purchase. Did I need it? Absolutely not.:p Just wanted to share. :)

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And then there was light...

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Can't wait to shoot her!! Just for kicks, I picked up a box of Hornady's Zombie Max ammo today. Lol.. I can't believe they went there because I refuse to talk about SHTF or TEOTWAWKI or any other dooming acronyms but I got a chuckle out of it and just had to do it. It might actually shoot pretty good; this rifle really likes the 165 gr stuff.
 
That's precisely the scope I'm considering; if you don't mind, I'd appreciate any feedback you may have on the following:
  • How well does the zero stop work on the turrets? Any slop there?
  • Are the clicks on the turrets as precise as the other scope you got by mistake?
  • How well do you like the FFP? If I were to get the scope you have, it would be my first FFP reticle.
I have two, possibly three rifles and only one suitable scope between them, so it's time to get some more glass:
  • 24" Rock River varmint upper in .223 (currently has my 6-24 Sightron II Big Sky silhouette scope mounted).
  • Remington 660 in .308, with EGW 20MOA picatinny rail (former host of the Sightron).
  • FNAR (if the gun store can still get the sale price on the 20" heavy barrel. If not, more $$$ for glass and taxes).
I suspect the Vortex is more suited to a .308 due to the range, but it will probably go on the .223 since I shoot that more.

Congratulations on the new glass!
 
Please let us know what you think after a range session. I have been looking at this scope for my 700 for a long time and saving up fervently.
 
I'll be sure to update this post after I get some range time in with it.

Fargazer - The zero stop on these uses a shim system below the turret (under the cap). It's not going to be a "hard" zero stop, unless your luck is just that good, but rather it will keep you from going a full rotation or more below your zero. In practice, you'll turn your elevation down until you hit the zero stop shims, then come back up to your true zero on the turret.

The fit and finish on this one is every bit as good as the 1-4x24 that I got a hold of. Every shared feature between the two feels the same, and looks the same. Like you, this is my first FFP optic. I'm dying to get behind it and send some down range. I plan on using my 1MOA targets at 300 yards (max at my new club). Till then...
 
How well does the zero stop work on the turrets? Any slop there?
Are the clicks on the turrets as precise as the other scope you got by mistake?
How well do you like the FFP? If I were to get the scope you have, it would be my first FFP reticle.
Click to expand...

I have had this exact scope but the 6-24 version for a while now.

The click's on it are great. They are extremely distinct. The zero stop is like the OP described. Its based on shims. If you wanted to you can play with the shims(by not putting them exactly across from each other but staggering them) to get it down to stop exactly at the zero. I always have it stop 1 or 2 after the zero though for the situations when I need to go below zero... Like using a lighter grain ammo for some reason.

As for the FFP, it REALLY just depends on use. If you just shoot paper at the range, then you do not need it. If you attend tactical match's and such then it is something that would be very nice to have.
 
How well does the zero stop work on the turrets? Any slop there?
Click to expand...

I'm sure you realize that only the elevation turret has a zero stop on it. Wouldn't work very well for the other turret. ;)

As for the other comments made, I'll join in and say it is a very good optic. I put the Viper PST 4-16 FFP mil/mil on my .308 last fall and attended my first precision rifle course in December. Great course and the hardware ran like a top. While other shooters would loose track of their elevation position and have to count clicks from bottom, I would just turn the turret until it stopped (I have mine set for about 2 mil below zero) and then back up to zero. Too easy it was! :D I used the reticle for some ranging practice.....we had about a dozen targets spread from 300 out to 1000+ yds. FFP was great for this portion of the course.
 
Ah good ole zero stop the best thing since slice bread :D really it's pretty nifty ;) Mine is .5Mil below my zero on my USO. I've thought about getting a PST and would have had the objective on the 2-10 PST not been 44mm, too over profile for my SPR. Of course now they're releasing a 2-10x32mm FFP :rolleyes:
 
Very cool! I got to try out a Vortex 1-4 on an AR not long ago and it was pretty nice. I'm considering one for mine.
 
UPDATE: Got to the range today

As expected, this scope performed very well this morning at 100, 200 and 300 yards. Zeroed in three shots, then proceeded to paint a bunch of 3/4MOA groups down range. The wind was awful by the time I got to 200 and 300 yards. It would gust and move me sideways at the bench. Wind flags were pulling on their poles. I'd wait between gusts to take shots. The adjustments were repeatable and predictable on the turrets. After playing around at 200, I moved out to a gong at 300 and painted the middle Lead.

Zero stop shims worked out well; once I got my zero at 200, I installed the shims and re-zeroed the elevation turret. Dope down 7/10ths for 100, dope up 5/10ths for 300. It, was.. a very satisfying first trip to the new rifle range. :) I then tried some Hornady Z-max/A-max, and it shot almost identically to the Federal GMM.

The delayed audible report back from the gong was a new experience for me; very cool. I was all grins when the wife and I left. (she was on the spotter)

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playing with the elevation at 200 (just before I shimmed)
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Was a good day, Tater. :D
 
Yeah the delayed hits on steel are fun as hell. When at i shoot at my friends range (the one i posted) the 300 and 400yd plates just kind of make a slap sound, 500 and 600 is where you really get the delayed ting of satisfaction. Awesome man range days are so fun :D if only that was my job to shoot lmao.
 
I love that scope.

I just watched their video on the "zero" stop.
I own two Vortex's , I'm having trouble understanding its real value.
Given that it doesn't take you to true zero, is the stop point precise (to the click) every time, so that you can simply count your clicks like a true zero stop if you were in total darkness? Or is it just a faster way to get you back close to where you want to be...

Curious, as I've never owned a mil/mil scope...what is your opinion of them vs. moa/moa?

All of our shooting is done at targets of known distance (and if I were ever to need to range, I'd get a rangefinder), and I keep thinking that going to a mil system wouldn't have any advantage for me, and would probably just confuse me.

Am I missing something?
 
Regarding the zero stops...
The way they instructed to put the zero stops, your kind of stuck at whatever it ends up at. They just tell you to put them across from each other.

I put them in a cross formation or any other evenly distributed way(staggered). By making minor adjustments I am able to make it stop at whatever I want it to stop at. So you CAN actually make it stop at actual zero.

I currently Have it to stop at .1 below zero, which is nice if for some reason I am using a 168gr bullet instead of 175 at 100 yds.

The way I have the shims, the zero IS repeatable for the short term, but I cant talk about the long term. What I mean is in the last couple range sessions I can tell you that it has returned to the same spot past zero, but I can't tell you for sure if it always has. Just haven't kept track.
 
What are you shooting in total darkness with a Vortex PST? ;)

I have my zero stop about 1.5 mil below the "0" on my turret. It matters little to me whether it stops 1.5 or 1.7 or 1.4 mil below zero. After the turret stops, a look at the turret and a quick turn up to "0" and I am at my zero. Beats the heck out of going to max down and then counting clicks back up to your zero.
 
That thing is beautiful! Also slightly terrifying. Like you have a piece of NASA equipment attached to your rifle. Maybe part of the Hubble Space Telescope?:)

Don't go shootin' at any friendly planets! They might shoot back--bigger.
 
What are you shooting in total darkness with a Vortex PST?
Click to expand...

Me? Nothing...

I was just regurgitating NF's talking point on the value of a zero-stop:

Then, you can make all the elevation adjustments you wish, and return the knob to zero quickly and positively just by feel. No counting clicks or need for visual reference. You can always return to your zero point, even while wearing gloves or in total darkness.
Click to expand...

I think it matters little if it stops at zero, or at some point other than zero, so long as it is precise to the click each time. I just don't see value in it if it's not a precise stop, and you have to look at the turret to verify the adjustment anyway, rather than being able to rely solely on feel. JMO...

I have a Leatherwood CMR that has a true zero stop- and since it's a $300 optic, I would've thought the technology isn't all that expensive.
I would have to surmise that incorporating "true" zero-stop into the PST would be too expensive, or Vortex would simply have done it, vs. an "almost" zero-stop.
 
A precise zero stop such as the one on the leupy mk4 M2s (yes they have zero stop) is 1/2MOA (1click) behind zero on the elevation turret, is a downfall if your shooting matches or changing conditions you might need to go down more than 1/2 MOA. My zero stop on my SN-3 is set 5/10ths behind my zero if I have change adjust accordingly, hold the erector in place with an Allen key and reset my elevation turret back to zero. Now I realize this in part is just for USOs EREK knob because I can physically control the erector. Same applies though IMO for other optics as to why you wouldn't want a precise stop at zero.
 
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