I fear I've ruined my new smith and wesson

If you strip it down to frame (remove all the clock work and grips) you can take it to almost any machine shop with a glass bead cabinet. Its very easy to do with fine glass bead and a blast cabinet. If your near NJ PM me and I will gladly blast it for you while you wait.
It will have to be washed in soap and water after to remove all traces of grit, it also has to be disassembled because there is no way to keep all of the grit out of it.
 
Why are you worried about a cylinder turn ring? If you want it to look like it was never fired just don't shoot it.
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You should be very worried, and remorseful that you completely ruined you new gun. You have destroyed 90% of it's value. The only option you have left is to get what you can for it, and buy one you can keep in an environmentally controlled, dust proof glass display case. You have destroyed so much of the value of your S&W that it is now worth only around a hundred bucks. But me being the very generous person I am will offer you $150 and pay the shipping to my FFL.:D

If you bought it to shoot it, shoot it, and don't worry about getting rid of normal wear marks.
If you bought it to stay in unfired condition, don't fire it.
 
I'll up the offer to $200, but you pay the FFL...:rolleyes:

Sarcasm aside, finish blemishes do not ruin a gun. They can lower the resale value, but do nothing to the gun's functionality.

I'd also suggest that you get a 2nd, 3rd, and 165th opinion about anything you see on Utube, BEFORE you do it yourself.
(NOT SARCASM)
 
jglsprings-nice guns and especially nice pictures-the whole gun in focus and no shadows covering stuff. You and Saxon seem to have the 'touch' with the camera.
 
OP, git you a nice leather holster, I recommend a pancake, and wear the gun around. Practice that draw. Do it enough times, and that holster will wear the gun in and the marks will disappear... only honest to God holster wear from YOUR time here on this planet Earth will replace it. :)

The Model 69 was designed for PACKING.

It's useful from everything from deer hunting, to bear protection, to silhouette shooting, to target shooting, to personal defense. Get you some nice .44 special hollow points for the latter use, carry them around too. :cool:

OP: You HAVE. NOT. RUINED. YOUR. GUN!!!!

Thing of it as a learning step. Next step, holster city and carry that sweet puppy. She'll break in nice and fine.
 
If you have or can get an air compressor which aren't very expensive all you need is a blast media hopper and some glass bead media and you can bead blast it yourself for $30 or less.
 
It is not just a matter of jump in and bead blast everything in sight.
I would not want my small parts or frame internals roughened up by it.
I had an auto bead blast blued. It looked real nice but it didn't work, the over-all blast had roughened the lapped in slide rails. They had to be re-lapped and refinished to complete the job.
 
Don't watch the fools on U-Tube...I have no idea where they get the stuff they show but most of it isn't to be taken seriously ...
Scotch-Brite pads will scratch the dickens on a polished surface. I only use them on the insides of cooking pots. Scratched a nicely polished Magnalite pot lid once....never again!
Before you try a U-Tube " do it like this " check with a web site and we will tell you of our first hand experiences and possibly save you from doing something you should not do.
Experience is a wonderful teacher and we will gladly share that knowledge.

Depending on your guns finish , I had a stainless model 64 S&W, removed a scratch with 400, then 600 wet-or-dry paper, and oil. 0000 steel wool and oil then finished up with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust remover...looked good.
Gary
 
+1 on everyone else who says things like "you haven't broken it" or "It's stainless & scratches are part of it's story"

BUT, you want solutions...

Yep, bead blasting is an issue. But - jglsprings sweet pics of what SS guns should look like give some hope.

I suggest you look at 3M abrasives' line of polishing pads that are designed to replace steel wool (BTW - DON'T use steel wook on an SS gun - the steel wool is high carbon and will leave small particles in the SS and then will rust).

The 3M stuff can be found at hardware stores in the paint section. I use the grey and white (000 & 0000 respectively) pads on my SS revolvers.

You can use these pads to progressively polish out the beauty marks you are concerned about and can also be used to shine up the entire revolver to a brighter shine.

Otherwise - either live with it or get it back to S&W for a refinish.
 
Tough way to learn...hope you get it worked out. The old adage, experiment on a hidden portion of the piece, makes sense.

I've got both types of SS S&W finish...bead blasted on a M69 and semi-polished on a 629, and two M60's. Gotta say that I prefer the bead blasted type better, but then I never was a fan of shiny, nickle plated finished, hand guns of any type. To each his own...

Rod
 
people need to stop freaking out about carbon rings on the cylinder face and messing up guns for no reason. its gonna get carbon burns just leave them alone.
 
You ruined it. I'll see it's properly recycled and give you $201.

You do love the environment, don't you?

Seriously, leave it alone. It will wear in. If you still can't bear it in 5 years, blue it.
 
You can't blue stainless steel. ^

Carbon rings are INEVITABLE, and shouldn't be worried about!! They aren't ugly, and are a sign the gun has been FIRED. Meaning, you know, what the gun was designed to do.
 
Next time try Birchwood Casey bore foam (foaming bore cleaner?) and a nylon brush, works for my SS revolver.

FWIW maroon Scotch Brite has ~ #320 grit (aluminum oxide IIRC) bonded to the fibers. White Scotch Brite has none, not sure about the other colors.
 
The finish on my 686 is "satin stainless" Smith and Wesson actually told me to use a scotch Brite pad on a portion of the barrel where I'd messed up the finish. It worked great looks the same now. Perhaps the Youtube video you watched was on a finish like mine.
 
Jim Watson said:
It is not just a matter of jump in and bead blast everything in sight. I would not want my small parts or frame internals roughened up by it.
I had an auto bead blast blued. It looked real nice but it didn't work, the over-all blast had roughened the lapped in slide rails. They had to be re-lapped and refinished to complete the job.
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I figured that goes without saying to remove the internals before bead blasting.

Whoever blasted your auto to the point that it didn't work either was blasting at way too high of a PSI, used incorrect blast media, or both. When you blast at too high of a PSI the beads end up breaking and give it a rough feel/look vs the smooth satin finish it should be. They also should have taped off the rails as there is no reason to bead blast the underside of a slide, even so when done properly the blasting should not have rendered your gun inoperable.

I have bead blasted a half dozen autos and a couple revolvers for me and friends, it's extremely simple to do and almost impossible to screw up.
 
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This stuff does about as good as you're going to get without a complete redo. It comes with several different pads . Each has a different abrasiveness to it. I redid a 5906 w/scratches and it came out pretty well with only minimal polish and a pretty good match . The scratches were certainly gone. Go slow.

http://www.amazon.com/Scratch-B-Gone...scratch-b-gone
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You can buy everything in that for under $10. It's just red and gray scotchbrite pads with polishing compound. Either way I wouldn't advise using scotchbrite pads or polishing compound on a bead blasted gun. The only way to fix a bead blasted finish is to re blast it.
 
Your basically correct, but I used it with reasonably good results, have you?
True, if you have to have it 100% again, you'll have to fork out the cash for a blast job. I, for one, wouldn't do it. Not worth it to me. JMO
 
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