I can't put my S&W together again! Help please!!!

Lots of people remove the blocking transfer bars. The three from my SW wheelguns are in a plastic bag in the closet. They are pretty much useless on a target pistol, real important in court if some idiot shot himself in the foot with it. That safety prevents the gun from firing if somebody whacks the back of the hammer while there is a live round under neath.
 
I generally use three QUALITY screwdrivers on smiths.
Ground to fit.....sideplate, strain and grip screws.
If messin with trigger overtravel stop....a fourth one.

I dont use a hammer for sideplate removal, just whap it with my cane.

Sam
 
The hammer block is but one safety feature of the S&W revolver. The other is the rebound slide. Most folks understand that it serves to return the trigger to its position of rest. However, it also serves as an internal safety. Unless the trigger is depressed on a S&W, the rebound slide intercepts the fall of the hammer and prevents the hammer from going fully forward; thereby preventing the firing pin from protruding from the firing pin hole.

BTW, I'd keep the hammer blocks in the gun. Even on a target gun, its presence doesn't alter the shooting characteristics of the gun.
 
Is the hammer block an MIM part on the newer guns? I ask because I also have a used late production Model 60 which was also having action trouble. I realized that the hammer blocking bar had broken into 3 pieces and was interfering with the other internals. Possibly the 629 part broke and wasn't replaced by the previous owner.

SA Scott
 
MIM hammer block.....a new one on me.
Broken hammer block also.

Can't imagine usin MIM to make em....so easy to just stamp em out of sheet stock.

Sam
 
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