Humbled today by 200 yards..
- Thread starter WWWJD
- Start date
Like everyone said 2" is nothing to be worried about. I'm not expert shot and don't have the experience alot of member on here do. But i've come a long way from shooting 1 1/2" groups at 100, to sub MOA at 100, and i have some shots that are sub MOA @ 200 and 300. The entire groups aren't sub MOA but there are a couple of shots that i caught where the wind was constant, and it made me happy. Especially the last 3 shots i shot @ 300. If your going from a larger power to smaller it might take some getting used to. I used my friends 22-250 with a 6.5-20x50mm on it and then i go back to my USO SN-3 3.2-17x44mm and realize what a difference it is. But i've become used to it i guess. We'll see how i fair when we get out there at 600 
. As said above wind is probably the biggest deciding factor as range increases, and it's a b*tch haha. I shot the 200yds with 10mph wind and then the 300yd group with 17mph according to the weather channel, without a wind meter it kinda sucks lol. Here are my groups at 200 and 300. Make sure to get a rear rest of any kind it helps a 100%. Or if you can use your arms to create a rear rest with the stock. Like on my A5 the palm of my left hand supports the rear of the stock. Good luck and happy shooting 
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@200
@300
. As said above wind is probably the biggest deciding factor as range increases, and it's a b*tch haha. I shot the 200yds with 10mph wind and then the 300yd group with 17mph according to the weather channel, without a wind meter it kinda sucks lol. Here are my groups at 200 and 300. Make sure to get a rear rest of any kind it helps a 100%. Or if you can use your arms to create a rear rest with the stock. Like on my A5 the palm of my left hand supports the rear of the stock. Good luck and happy shooting .@200
@300
Nothing wrong with 2" at 200 IMO, with a 10x.
As you mentioned, that bulls looks tiny @ 200 with a 10x (I have a Vortex 3.5- 10). It's all about practice- and eyesight. While many guys can and do better at that range and much longer with a 10x, they have a lot more trigger time at it.
Stick with it, that's the challenge. As long as you know the rifle is capable, it'll get better. A higher magnification scope would get you the itty bitty groups you're looking for faster, but now you have an excuse to practice more
As you mentioned, that bulls looks tiny @ 200 with a 10x (I have a Vortex 3.5- 10). It's all about practice- and eyesight. While many guys can and do better at that range and much longer with a 10x, they have a lot more trigger time at it.
Stick with it, that's the challenge. As long as you know the rifle is capable, it'll get better. A higher magnification scope would get you the itty bitty groups you're looking for faster, but now you have an excuse to practice more
smoakingun
New member
200 yard is a stretch, but do it without the bag. Your ancestors were masters with the rifle, before the siege of boston, in order to narrow down the best of the best rifleman, a shooting contest was held. A shingle was placed at 250 yards, the riflemen that could hit it, (with a rifled musket) were sent to boston. Find an appleseed near you, they will teach you to make the shot out to 500 yards without a bag and without a scope.
www.appleseedinfo.org
www.appleseedinfo.org
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armoredman
New member
Well, yes.
Sort of.
That's me shooting the day I was hitting that 200 yard target pictured above, the B27 one, not the nice small one. The nice small one was fired seated unsupported without a sling with the 527M. I didn't have a bag yet then, now I have a front bag rest and a wood block. I never tried using a rear bag, and one came with the front bag, maybe I should try it. The long, (300), yard range is hard to get time at, unfortunately, but I want to try it again with the Berrys load that gave me a couple of 3/4 at 100 yards. I also just put a sling on the 527, maybe that will help even more.
I don't lie about how I shoot, or post targets that I shot at 25 yards as 250 yards, ever. I just mostly don't post the REALLY bad ones!
Sort of.
That's me shooting the day I was hitting that 200 yard target pictured above, the B27 one, not the nice small one. The nice small one was fired seated unsupported without a sling with the 527M. I didn't have a bag yet then, now I have a front bag rest and a wood block. I never tried using a rear bag, and one came with the front bag, maybe I should try it. The long, (300), yard range is hard to get time at, unfortunately, but I want to try it again with the Berrys load that gave me a couple of 3/4 at 100 yards. I also just put a sling on the 527, maybe that will help even more.
I don't lie about how I shoot, or post targets that I shot at 25 yards as 250 yards, ever. I just mostly don't post the REALLY bad ones!
It really is parallax free...
I set my rifle up on the kitchen table a few minutes ago and got it centered on the top of a tree at what appears to be about 400 yards out (according to google earth). Making no contact with the scope or stock, I drifted my eye back and forth across the focal plane. The image drifted maybe.. to what would equate to 1" at the target distance. It's hard to tell, my weight was shifting on the floor under the table, so it might have been that.
So, for future reference, the Bushnell Elite 3200 10x40 fixed with a tactical reticle is parallax free. My low and to the right error vs. my buddy's high to the left? ... well... that one's all me. Reckon it's gonna take more shooting to figure this out. Whatever will I do?!
I set my rifle up on the kitchen table a few minutes ago and got it centered on the top of a tree at what appears to be about 400 yards out (according to google earth). Making no contact with the scope or stock, I drifted my eye back and forth across the focal plane. The image drifted maybe.. to what would equate to 1" at the target distance. It's hard to tell, my weight was shifting on the floor under the table, so it might have been that.
So, for future reference, the Bushnell Elite 3200 10x40 fixed with a tactical reticle is parallax free. My low and to the right error vs. my buddy's high to the left? ... well... that one's all me. Reckon it's gonna take more shooting to figure this out. Whatever will I do?!
TheNatureBoy
New member
Hey WWWJD, keep at it. I felt the same way when I first shot 200 yards. Now I'm up to 600 yards. Fun ain't it : )
How's your trigger breaking? If it is a heavy pull then you should replace it with a different trigger. Then only do so if you can not account for also your trigger can be heavy enough that your pulling slightly when it breaks next time you go out try a different part of your finger on the trigger that may allow you to prevent pulling shots.
hnl.flyboy
New member
You're complaining about 2 inches at 200 yards?! When Marines shoot the Known Distance (KD) Course at 200 yards, their "black" (center of the target) is 12 inches across. I often see a bunch of Marines (I'm a range coach) shoot >24 inch groups...with their ACOGs...and that's with getting some "pit love" (the Marines pulling targets in the pits hooking them up with better hits/scores).
Your 2" at 200 yards is nothing to be ashamed of.
Your 2" at 200 yards is nothing to be ashamed of.
big al hunter
New member
WWWJD I think I should have explained more about parallax in my first post. Parallax exists in all scopes even the $1500 swarovski models. This is not a defect in the scope it is just the nature of things with magnification. Scope manufactures decided many years ago that it was more cost effective to make scopes parallax free at 100 yards because most people did not shoot at long ranges anyway, and those that did would pay more for an adjustable model.
The movement you saw when you looked at the tree was parallax. The amount of parallax movement is relatively small at 200-400 yards with all scopes. It is more noticable with higher magnification. My observation in my first post was that you hit low right and your buddy hit high left or vice versa. I believe this happens because you position your head in a slightly different place on the stock than your buddy, thus creating consistant groups in different locations on the target. Parallax only becomes an issue at very long ranges or if you don't anchor your head on the stock in the same way every time. Your choice of 10 power fixed is what many of our military snipers use, and can be quit effective at a very great distance. So don't think you don't have enough scope. If you continue to anchor your head in the same way you did last time at the range and you shoot to 300 yards the group will probably move farther in the same direction away from the point of aim. If your anchor is consistant your groups will be also. Next time you shoot try this: shoot a 3 to 5 shot group with your standard shooting stance. Then shoot the same number of shots with a thick pad between your stock and your cheek, maybe fold up a jacket or use your wallet. This should cause the group from the second position to be in a slightly different location. Put the crosshair on the bullseye and move your head around. The crosshairs will move about the same as the difference between your groups. For deer hunting no big deal, for 600 or 1000yard match competition.........
The movement you saw when you looked at the tree was parallax. The amount of parallax movement is relatively small at 200-400 yards with all scopes. It is more noticable with higher magnification. My observation in my first post was that you hit low right and your buddy hit high left or vice versa. I believe this happens because you position your head in a slightly different place on the stock than your buddy, thus creating consistant groups in different locations on the target. Parallax only becomes an issue at very long ranges or if you don't anchor your head on the stock in the same way every time. Your choice of 10 power fixed is what many of our military snipers use, and can be quit effective at a very great distance. So don't think you don't have enough scope. If you continue to anchor your head in the same way you did last time at the range and you shoot to 300 yards the group will probably move farther in the same direction away from the point of aim. If your anchor is consistant your groups will be also. Next time you shoot try this: shoot a 3 to 5 shot group with your standard shooting stance. Then shoot the same number of shots with a thick pad between your stock and your cheek, maybe fold up a jacket or use your wallet. This should cause the group from the second position to be in a slightly different location. Put the crosshair on the bullseye and move your head around. The crosshairs will move about the same as the difference between your groups. For deer hunting no big deal, for 600 or 1000yard match competition.........
I'm not really complaining about the size of the group as much as I'm concerned about the placement; I'd like to consistently hit what I'm aiming at (the middle).
I will try to be mindful of my finger placement next time out. The trigger weight doesn't seem to be high; I actually played with it a bit before I even shot it and got it to a point where I thought it was relatively light. (Remmy X-Mark trigger came with it)
I've got the kydex cheek installed; I'll try bumping it up or down the next time out.
Thanks for all the feedback guys! Lots of food for thought round' here.
One thing I have come accustomed to with my .308 is the exact amount of pressure needed to pull the trigger. I'll start my breathing cycle and steadily put pressure on the trigger till I get it about a 1/2lb away then settle exactly where I want the shot to be on the target then finish the pull.
This way you know there is no odd trigger jerking involved in your accuracy.
This way you know there is no odd trigger jerking involved in your accuracy.