How to lighten trigger pull?

[Powderman]

Since you are talking about a 1911 type pistol, I'll chime in.

Adjusting pull on the 1911 pistol is relatively easy...IF you go in with a good idea of what is involved.

The first thing you should do is to buy and study well the book by Jerry Kuhnhausen--the Shop Manual for the .45 Auto. This will give you a good idea of what you're getting into.

For a smooth, reliable pull, there are a number of things you must do BEFORE you even touch engagement surfaces. You must measure the parts involved to ensure that there is enough metal present for what you're going to do. Look at the parts involved--are they MiM or solid steel? Both can be of good quality--I prefer solid steel, but you will be the final judge of that.

You must perform measurements on the frame/receiver. Are the holes properly located and in spec? Is the inside of the frame/receiver clean, smooth, and free of burrs that might interfere with a smooth pull? Is the trigger raceway smooth and even throughout? Even the mainspring housing--is the spring recess clean and smooth?

There are measurements to do to the parts themselves. Is the replacement sear long enough for a good trigger job? Are the hammer hooks long enough for proper tuning? Will the mated parts prevent hammer bounce and sear damage when fitted? How about that disconnector--is it finished well, and is the hole for the disconnector smooth with a good internal finish?

You must also learn the depth of heat treatment of several parts. Something else you HAVE to have down before you start cutting into engagement surfaces--what a primary and secondary angle is on the sear itself. How does "breakaway" work, and what does it involve? If you don't do it right, you (at best) will have a trigger job that won't last 100 rounds, because all of the hardened surfaces will be removed. At worst, you will have a 1911 that goes full auto--and I'll tell you from experience, a 1911 pistol ripping out 8 rounds of full power ball ammunition is no joke--it can actually be a life-threatening experience.

It is good that you have questions about the procedures necessary. Please ask--there are folks here who have experience building and tuning the 1911 pistol who will be more than happy to help. I'll leave you with three reminders for the fledgling gunsmith:

1. Drop in parts usually AREN'T.
2. Measure two/three/four times--cut once and CUT SLOWLY.
3. ALWAYS work/cut the CHEAPEST part FIRST.

And finally....

95% of the problems encountered by shooters can be fixed with a proper detailed cleaning and lubrication.

Best of luck to you!

 

[Ichiban]

I have no idea if they actually work as advertised but you could try something like this.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/245563/cylinder-and-slide-tactical-match-trigger-pull-5-piece-set-1911-government-commander-4-1-2-lb-steel-in-the-white

 

[Nathan]

I have no idea if they actually work as advertised but you could try something like this.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/245...l-in-the-white

That set should be drop in, but you will need to inspect the engagement on your frames hole spacing with magnification (8 - 20x)to make sure it is right. There are special pins for this. If it looks good there, It's probably ok.

Then you will need to fit a new thumb safety, or fix your current one.

Last, you will need to safety check, including dropping the slide on an empty chamber.

Last, live fire check with 1, then 2, then 3 loaded rounds. If all is perfect. . .Shoot 500 rounds in a controlled environment to prove out the gun.

BTW, these are in the white steel and need some kind of rust preventative coating applied.

 

[Nathan]

You will never get your money back out of it when you sell.

I would argue this point in 2 ways. First, do you modify a gun to increase resale value or to increase it's ability to play a role in your arsenal? I don't sell much, so definately the latter for me.

Second, I would pay more for a gun with a better pull as long as it safety checks ok and I like the look of the parts.

...or if a name smith completed the work.

 

[farmerboy]

Same here. Buy a Glock and buy a ghost trigger bar/ about 15 dollars and a ghost 3.5 lb connector / about 16 dollars and a competition spring kit for about 8 dollars and get a gun with about 2.5 lb trigger.

 

[trex1310]

Here is another path you can take. Leave it alone. Most well made
modern handguns are good enough right out of the box. The words
"handgun", "newbie" and "file" gives me cold chills. Messing with
sears should always be left to the professionals. IMO a 2.5lb
trigger pull is too light for a carry weapon. Good luck.