Mosin-Marauder
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Indeed. I think my rifle was used in combat, as the Ball on the bolt is a brownish color that looks almost like Rust. I'm not saying the Soviets didn't sacrifice it all, but their fighting style could have been better.
How to clean a Mosin Nagant after using Surplus Ammo?
- Thread starter Mosin-Marauder
- Start date
The Russia tactics and strategies were fine during the war. All those scenes of seemingly sheer waste of human lives we saw on movies were desperate measures.
They were not ready to fight, due to different reasons, when the German attacked. The whole front collapsed, and the Germans were about to overrun their industrial and oil producing centers. Russia would be done for if they succeeded. Stalin himself issued an order, I read the English translation of that order, that any retreating unit the CO would be shot on spot and officers would be sent to the "punishment companies". They threw in human bodies to slow down the German momentum so that they could organize counter attack, just like what the USMC did during the early stage of the Korean war. Once the situation stabilized, the Russian brilliantly maneuvered around the Germans and had they trapped and their asses kicked.
OK, I have gone off the tangent here. Back to the original topic. All the surplus guns were shooting corrosive ammunition, including American arms. Most of them, at least one that appear in surplus market, seem to be doing just fine. The salt from corrosive primer would probably be a serious problem if the rifle were left uncleaned in high humidity. It is always a good practice to clean the rifle with water based solvent as soon as possible. No need to spend money on fancy products. Water will dissolve the salt. You need to flush it out, no just dissolve it, so use more. Oh, don't pee to your rifle.
-TL
They were not ready to fight, due to different reasons, when the German attacked. The whole front collapsed, and the Germans were about to overrun their industrial and oil producing centers. Russia would be done for if they succeeded. Stalin himself issued an order, I read the English translation of that order, that any retreating unit the CO would be shot on spot and officers would be sent to the "punishment companies". They threw in human bodies to slow down the German momentum so that they could organize counter attack, just like what the USMC did during the early stage of the Korean war. Once the situation stabilized, the Russian brilliantly maneuvered around the Germans and had they trapped and their asses kicked.
OK, I have gone off the tangent here. Back to the original topic. All the surplus guns were shooting corrosive ammunition, including American arms. Most of them, at least one that appear in surplus market, seem to be doing just fine. The salt from corrosive primer would probably be a serious problem if the rifle were left uncleaned in high humidity. It is always a good practice to clean the rifle with water based solvent as soon as possible. No need to spend money on fancy products. Water will dissolve the salt. You need to flush it out, no just dissolve it, so use more. Oh, don't pee to your rifle.
-TL
In large amounts it is harmful to the bore..but then again in the middle of a battlefield when you don't have time to stip your gun for fear of being ambushed what other choice do you have if you really want to prevent rust and keep your firearm going..
Also perhaps I am mistaken but I do believe the ammonia does break down and neutralize the corrosive salts..if it is just the water in windex why do people use it at all and just use water instead???
Like I said I could very well be mistaken but I have always been under the impression that it is the ammonia that helps neutralize it and that was why so many people use windex.it has always worked for me a little winded in the bore followed by a good cleaning and I have never had rust problems
Also perhaps I am mistaken but I do believe the ammonia does break down and neutralize the corrosive salts..if it is just the water in windex why do people use it at all and just use water instead???
Like I said I could very well be mistaken but I have always been under the impression that it is the ammonia that helps neutralize it and that was why so many people use windex.it has always worked for me a little winded in the bore followed by a good cleaning and I have never had rust problems
i think ive gone over this before on my mosin project (check out if you need ideas)
mainly the key is to neutralize the acidic nature of the surplus
windex is good to use (anyone saying anything else needs to look at taking a chemistry class)
steps to go through i do
-first using the cleaning rod and a windex SOAKED wad. jam that down the barrel till its flooded well
- wait at least 15 minutes for the windex to act as a neutralizing agent
-now come back with a dry wad, and clean the barrel as you would normally (oil , balistol, and hops systems are fine)
-once you've cleaned till there is no discoulering of the wads, you will want to place a oiled wad down the barrel, to prevent rusting of the barrel
you should also lightly oil anything on the mosin thats metal (even the black painted parts)
the wood may need beeswax or a light waxing, to coat it to look nice or prevent any issue later on
all in all its a good system to follow no mater what round type you shoot
hope this helps
mainly the key is to neutralize the acidic nature of the surplus
windex is good to use (anyone saying anything else needs to look at taking a chemistry class)
steps to go through i do
-first using the cleaning rod and a windex SOAKED wad. jam that down the barrel till its flooded well
- wait at least 15 minutes for the windex to act as a neutralizing agent
-now come back with a dry wad, and clean the barrel as you would normally (oil , balistol, and hops systems are fine)
-once you've cleaned till there is no discoulering of the wads, you will want to place a oiled wad down the barrel, to prevent rusting of the barrel
you should also lightly oil anything on the mosin thats metal (even the black painted parts)
the wood may need beeswax or a light waxing, to coat it to look nice or prevent any issue later on
all in all its a good system to follow no mater what round type you shoot
hope this helps