How reliable is your S&W revolver? Reliability = works 100% of the time.

How reliable is/was your S&W revolver? Reliability = works 100% of the time.

  • I never had a problem.

    Votes: 112 84.2%
  • I had a problem but I fixed it my self.

    Votes: 15 11.3%
  • I had a problem(s) but S&W fixed it on the 1st time.

    Votes: 7 5.3%
  • I had a problem(s) but S&W fixed it the 2nd time.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I had a problem(s) but S&W fixed it on the 3rd time or more time.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I had a problem(s) and S&W did not fix it.

    Votes: 1 0.8%
  • A gun smith was not able to fix. I kept having problems. It will never be as reliable.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    133
Had a frame-mounted firing pin fracture on a J-frame. S&W fixed in 2 weeks. Other S&W revolvers no problems in 20 yrs.
 
I have a good number of Smiths, and have only had one minor problem with one of them.

It was a 625 that had been run hard for years as a competition gun, and was out of time. One two week trip to Smith and Wesson and its running like a brand new gun....and they did not charge me one cent to rebuild it!
 
I have a 686-3, 17 no dash, 14-3, 29-10, and a pre model 10. All have been completely reliable. Only real problem has been the grip screw coming loose on the model 29(annoying but has nothing to due with reliability). 1000s of rounds through all of them.
 
I've owned several S&W revolvers. The only malfunction I ever had was after having a smith smooth the action on one that I owned for 25 years. the cylinder quit revolving while at the range. Just needed cleaning and was good as new.

Outside of that never a problem with any I've owned.

Also owned 1 Taurus, 445. That gun was always reliable in the 8 years I owned it. Only reason I sold it was the .44 Spl ammo was expensive. I do regret selling it.
 
Based on them going bang everytime I squeeze the trigger then I've never had a problem. I've had some with issues but nothing to prevent then from shooting.

Jim
 
50+ years of shooting S&W's now and I've had two that went back to the factory. My wife's M36 with a 3" bbl. had a worn cylinder locking stud (that bump at the bottom of the frame window that stops rearward movement during case ejection); and a brand new M637 that locked up on the tenth round fired. A call to Smith got me a FEDEX shipping label, and S&W did the work free. I had both guns back to me in less than two weeks.

I own 15 Smiths at this point and have given a half dozen to my sons over the years. They're quality guns, even with the new, much hated ILS. Accurate, reliable to a fault when maintained, you can't do better if you're shopping for a revolver.

To keep them running, it's necessary to CLEAN them. I brush out the powder fowling in the frame, do the same with the front of the cylinder and under the ejector, make sure the ejector rod is tight, then swab the bore and cylinders out. That's a 3 minute process if I have to search out my supply of patches.

I can't speak to the auto side of Smith's business, having only owned a M-745, a M-41, and a 380 Bodyguard, but their revolvers are first rate.

Rod
 
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Smith & Wesson (revolvers) I have had:

2- model 10's

1 - model 60

2- model 64's

1 - model 36

1 - model 15

1- model 442

1- model 642


Not one of them has ever malfunctioned, or had any parts break.
 
Lets see, I have or had: Smith and Wesson
Model 41 , 22 LR
Model 317 , 22 LR
Model 60 , 38 special
Model 637 , 38 special
Model 64 , 38 special
Model 27 , 357 magnum
Model 58 , 41 magnum

Never had a problem with any of them. Except the time I took the model 60 apart and couldn't remember how it went back together, exactly.... instructions and diagram got it back together and now I know how to do it. My fault.
All of them , going back to 1969, 100% reliability no parts breakage or gunsmith servicing required. Keep things clean and lubed is great advice.

Gary
 
I've owned 10 S&W revolvers over the years and while I don't keep an exact round count, a few of them easily have thousands of rounds through them since I've owned them (most were bought used). Of those revolvers, I've only had two which had problems beyond what I'd consider normal maintenance/wear and tear that I could address myself (tightening ejector rods, installing endshake bearings, etc.).

The first was my 629-6 which broke a firing pin while shooting Hornady factory 300 gr XTP ammo. To be fair, however, the ammo in question seemed as though it was probably running on the upper end of pressure, if not overpressure, as the primers were noticeably flattened and the cases extracted a little sticky, so I don't know if that may have contributed to the problem. S&W fixed the problem without hesitation under warranty and I had my gun back in about two weeks. I've never had a moment's trouble with the revolver since and that's been over six years ago with many, many rounds in between.

The other was my Model 28-2 which broke it's trigger stud while I was installing a new rebound slide spring. To be fair, I bought this revolver used (and it was well-used at that) and I don't know how many times it may have been disassembled before or if it had been disassembled and reassembled correctly. I did have to pay to have this one fixed as it predated the lifetime warranty and I was not the original owner. While it was back at Springfield, I also had it reblued, retimed, and the barrel-cylinder gap reset (this revolver has sentimental value to me, so resale value or how much I have in it aren't really a concern). It took a few months, but what I got back was even better than I expected: the reblue job was gorgeous (I had them stay with the original satin blue) and the action is timed like a Swiss watch and locks up like a bank vault.

The other S&W revolvers I own or have owned include Models 10, 13, 22, 27, 36, 57, 66, and 442 and they've all been flawless save for the occasional case of shooter error or maintenance.
 
I've had two S&W with issues:

Used M19 that would not bring the hammer back back far enough to fire in double action occasionally but would rotate the cylinder. Took a stone to the rebound slide and slot which fixed it. I suspect this one may have lower power springs installed by a previous owner.

M60 sideplate screw that holds the cylinder fell out. Fitted replacement screw. This pistol would also bind up after a couple cylinders full. Took it to a gunsmith who fixed that. It belonged to my Dad is the only reason I kept it.

I've only owned a couple each Ruger and Colt revolvers and no issues with those so far but hardly ever shoot them.
 
Many smiths no problems. I carry a 637.

I had a BG38 that shot loose in a few hundred rounds. I returned it, they fixed it and it shot loose again. I traded it for the 637 and put CT grips on it.

David
 
My Model 19 and wife's Model 66 have always worked.

My father's mid-1950s pre-Model 10 has a timing problem. Last time I fired it the cylinder didn't fully lock every time so you have to check it every time before firing. I told my sister it should be looked at by a gunsmith but she almost never fires it so never got around to it. Anyway, it sure was fun firing it 50 some years after I last fired it!
 
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