How much $ to start loading?

You are standing on a greased log across a deep precipice. You are not going to see a savings for a while, if ever.
 
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This isn't linked to cost, so I'm not sure of it's relevance...

There is the 'DIY' thing, the 'Hobby' in reloading.
Other than hyper accurate rounds, I found a single press a labor intensive, boring/repetitious process that quickly becomes mind numbing.

With the more expensive Progressive, I find the process to be satisfying as a 'Hobby' in it's own right.
It WILL depend a lot on the press, but you CAN crank out very good common ammo on a self indexing progressive, and I find that self satisfying in it's own right.
Getting nearly 'Match' grade ammo is a bonus to that secondary hobby.

I have to agree about the ammo supply issues also,
I was shooting regularly when others couldn't even find components to build rounds, and there was virtually nothing on the shelves.

I don't think that will happen again anytime soon, but sitting on 10K or 20K primers and powder isn't a bad idea...
Just remember to rotate stock and you will always have fresh ammo that shoots well in YOUR firearms when you decide to practice, and you can keep plinking away when others sit around and complain...

Sure beats the alternative... Taking up the sling shot or bow & arrow!
(although the excercise probably wouldn't hurt me any!)
 
I dropped about 450-500. This was with a Lee kit, and included powder, primers, bullets etc. Enough for my first 100+ rounds. Like mentioned shopping around can save some big money.

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Unless you are going to load a lot of ammo a single stage press is the way to go. I still use a single stage for rifle and test loads. I have a Dillon 550 for pistol. with the progressive I won't change over til I run out of a caliber of ammo, then I load a large qty of whatever it's set up for ( at least 500, maybe 1000 ) rounds then change it over. if all you want is a hundred or so rounds then a single stage is all you need. If you go single stage get a good cast iron press, I've been most satisfied with RCBS dies but any brand should work altho I don't like the Lee dies due to a lack of actual lock rings. A couple reloading manuals, scale, powder measure. Don't overlook a hand priming tool, priming on a single stage press leaves a lot to be desired. There are a few other odds and ends you will need. Case lube, cheap calipers, loading block, eventually a case trimmer. The RCBS Rockchucker kit is about 325.00 and has just about all you need except dies. Lyman and Hornady also sell kits that include heavy duty Cast iron presses.
mY 2 cents.
 
I read for several months before starting reloading just a couple of years ago. I wound up buying a Lee Classic Turret from Kempf. They put together their own kits with the turret press, powder dispenser, primer feeder, and your choice of die sets for a very reasonable price. They leave out the Lee scale, which not everyone likes, and let you pick out your own scale. Their current price is just $200, and you will have a very versatile setup. The Pro Auto Disk upgrade is $15, and the drum upgrade is just $5. Adding a caliber means buying just another die set and another turret, and changing calibers means just changing the turret, a job that literally takes only a minute or two.

I have been completely satisfied with my purchase, and the folks were easy and pleasant to deal with.

https://kempfgunshop.com/Kempf_Kit_w/_Lee_Classic_Turret_Press_-90064Kit-6575.html

ETA: As for manual, I have both the Lee and the Lyman, and I am glad I own both. I first bought the Lee, because the LCT was starting to emerge as a likely first purchase and I thought there might be some brand-specific information in there. There was, but the brand plugging is pretty heavy, and the explanation of the loading process is more concise in Lyman, with fewer plugs and digressions. On the other hand, the digressions and anecdotes in the Lee manual are kind of entertaining, and reminded me of a conversation with a helpful older fellow who likes to talk about his favorite hobby. I was actually a little surprised, upon buying the Lyman a little later, that it has less data than Lee, at least for the calibers that I reload.
 
There are a wide range of replies here across the spectrum of members experiences. I like what Machineguntony had to say; so different from what works for me. His name says it all. My set-up would never work for him. A bench-rest shooter, long-range shooter, hunter, etc., could all go fairly minimalist. But some pursuits simply require a lot of ammo to be consumed, therefore, more progressive and perhaps automated reloading equipment becomes increasingly necessary to keep up with the demand. Most people who take up reloading will want more equipment than what I use. From Pete2's post, I would think that's an excellent place to be for most reloaders. I am at the place where I both save money by reloading, and shoot more than I could otherwise afford. I could use my stuff in a log cabin in the woods with no electricity. Give me a good backpack, a fishing rod, a decent gun or two, and a pick-up truck that will get me to the trailhead and I'm good. I really don't want much more than that; certainly nothing that gets in the way of that. But YOU will want more..............
 
If I can just address the elephant in the room, please avoid lee equipment. You are wanting to make a single time, lifelong investment.

I would recommend nearly any other press, one with an O frame, cast iron (not pot metal).
A four hole turret will be very handy, as switching out dies as you fool around with something can be a lot of time. Get a hand priming press. a scale is mandatory, and I would suggest a digital, I guess. A pair of calipers is mandatory. A kit isn't such a bad idea. a top grade measure such as the rcbs uniflow is mandatory. I'm thinking about my bench, and can't think of much right now.

Get a dozen boxes to fit your ammo, large rifle, medium rifle, pistol fifty count, etc, and an assortment of loading blocks. You can actually use the common .45 acp ammo blocks that wind up on the ground at the range. Pick up about five sets of safety glasses, industrial bulk. Get a magnifying glass, and reading glasses. lens cleaning materials; if you are looking over dirty glasses when that primer blows and throws flaming powder over your face, why bother wearing them?

Im going to recommend the kit, hornady, redding, lyman, rcbs, there are others out there.

Don't waste your time buying cheap equipment! you want to make good ammo, you want it to last, you want it to work. THIS STUFF IS CHEAP! what have you spent on ammo or firearms over the past ten years? is dropping a few hundred on a press and equipment an insane thing to do, compared to the thousands of dollars that you have probably spent in the past decade? maybe you're someone who owns a great truck. Did you cut corners on your vehicle to the point that you're afraid of your tires? paying for middle or high grade equpment only costs 20-40% of what your basic stuff sells for. If you are used to good tools, you will appreciate it. then again, maybe youre the kind of guy who has a hammer in the kithen drawer next to a battery operated screwdriver, and having top drawer products doesnt matter. It's your choice, but a lot of people will agree with this, but there will be a number of people who don't
 
Okinawa, Japan a temporary location? It'll affect anything you do and how much it'll cost, if it's not. Lot of companies won't ship to Japan(assuming Japan lets it in to start with.) but if they do, it'll be really friggin' expensive.
Anyway, look into one of the Beginner's Kits. Gives you everything you need less dies and shell holder. (The 6.5 Creedmoor, .243 and .308 all use the same shell holder.)
Partial to RCBS kit myself, but the brand really doesn't make much difference, except for the warrantee. RCBS's is on the kit, forever. Anything breaks, they fix or replace it even if you buy used kit(used is ok. Isn't like buying a used car). Not all brands stand behind their stuff as well. Usually one or two years only and not on used stuff.
The kits come with a manual but buy a Lyman book too. More versatile than any bullet or powder maker's book. Lee's is Hodgdon's data. Lee tests nothing themselves. The assorted bullet makers give data for their stuff only. Mind you, you load according to the bullet weight, not who made it or its shape, etc.
"...is VERY slow on a single die press..." Speed with a single stage press is about technique.
 
I have never used a Lee press, so I can't comment on that. But it may not be fair to say that everything made by Lee is junk. I consider the Lee Factory Crimp Die to be a must-have for caliber like 30-30. I also like their double-cavity moulds, as well as their cases trimmers.
 
I started out by buying the RCBS master supreme kit (I believe RCBS has a $50 rebate promo). Spent several years getting experience with the single stage, then about a year ago my wife took interest in handgun so now I needed to speed up pistol ammo loading a bit. I recently purchased the LEE classic turret for 9mm, .40 s&w , 460 s&w mag, and 223. turrets are not as fast as progressives but still a major step past a single. and I bought a complete Lee turret setup used for $150.
 
The cost problem is you reload may (eventually) cost less but you shoot MORE!

Buy used equipment. to start.

I am also a minimalist but if you get a used RCBS Junior, Rockchucjer or the like you will find out if you like it.

There is always use for a singe stage press on any bench.

Get a low cost electric scale, Hornady makes one, Frankfurt makes one (pm me if you need the right way to use them, once you do it they are fine). I like the Franfurth as it loads better using a trickler and you can still see the display right.

I would skip the balance scale as you get calibrated weights with the electronic to check it.

I know some think its hearsay, but even if you go with a beam eventually, the digital scale has all sorts of sues.

Check a round (powder or no? Easy, put it on the scale, compare it to the rest and (short of a 9mm) the difference will jump out.

Need to check a bullet to see if its 115 gr or 125? Easy as well.

I have two balance scales but only because I had one and was given the other.

Ok to cross check but a pain if you need to find weights, no plans to ever got back.
 
There is something to consider. A progressive press is probably the fastest, but unless you are laying up thousands of rounds every few months, hundreds at a time, I don't k ow if you will find it to be profitable. Constantly changing dies and setting up charges is going to be a pain either. Way, but doing it a few boxes at a time I'm relatively certain that using either a single stage or turret press will probably make you happy.


Something to keep in m I nd, if you intend to load larger rifle rounds, a progressive press isn't what you want for your only press. There is no reason to avoid a good turret press, I own both, but only rarely use the turret. Why don't I use the turret? The only reason I avoid it is that it's at the other end of the bench and I'm too lazy to move my chair.

Two more things, and I'm calling it good.some people swear that you must have the absolute best press to get a accuracy, and that really isn't try. As long as it's properly bored and set up, your ammo will be fine. Dies are more important to processing than setting offer a half grand into a press. After that, components are important, don't expect absolute accuracy without going the extra mile buying and tuning the best components.

This is where your savings come in. Top grade ammo for example, .30-06 will cost two bucks or more, but that same cartridge can be loaded for less than half that price. If you made the mistake of buying a 257 Roberts or .300 h&h, loading your own allows you the chance to load and fire in bulk.
 
Good point about the scale, RC20. I just use an inexpensive Dillon/Ohaus balance scale. It works fine for getting your charge weight correct, but for weigh-sorting cases, it's pretty slow to have to constantly slide the weights back and forth on it. Perhaps there is a digital electronic scale in my future after all. Are there any good ones that are made in USA, or at least not made in some country that is not likely to remain one of our friends in the future?
 
I too have perused the firing line from Okinawa. If you are on base you cannot beat the MWR (or whatever they call it now) tour & activity programs. Be sure you do stuff :)

You will see it many times here, buy once, cry once.

I have run a 550 for 30 years. I am knee deep in ammo with little effort. At the low end, a 9mm conversion takes 2,000 rounds to break even on a caliber conversion. The 45-70, about 200. I am moving to a 650, keeping the 550.

This link has a lot of info:

http://www.brianenos.com/index.html

I advise those interested, you have to like it. If you do not like it, if it is a drudgery, don't do it. Cus you are not going to do it.

If you are on the Air Force side and ever end up at WPAFB PM me.
 
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