I recondition brass on a volume/commercial scale.
I have half million sitting around at any given time...
If you are removing crimp and worried about primer depth, you are doing it wrong...
Crimp removal is just cutting or mashing the crimp out of the way.
Depth or hole size issues are when you use a primer pocket 'Uniforming' tool.
That's a cutting tool that reaches up into the primer pocket,
To cut that primer pocket a specific size in diameter,
Or specific depth from head (head stamped surface is the 'head').
Depends on brand/maker of brass,
Some primer pockets are die formed, pressed into the brass when the brass is pressed out of a 'Cup' of base material.
Other brands of brass have primer pockets that are cut with a cutting tool.
Most are pressed, simply because it saves the manufacturer a machining process and the fixtures/cutting tools & time.
When I'm processing once fired brass or manufacturing brass from base stock the customer will order a specific size primer pocket or flash hole size (for a specific primer they intend to use).
That ALWAYS costs extra!
Existing (once fired) brass you can 'Bump' the primer pocket around a little, but it takes a very powerful and accurate press to do it correctly.
There isn't a press like that on the common market, the common market presses simply 'Swage' the primer pocket so a common primer can be reinserted.
Machining takes a very specific clamp to hold the brass in place for a specified cut to take place accurately,
Which is why I DO NOT recommend the 'All In One' case processing centers for that particular reason, no guides or clamps to center, lousy off center/strange angle cuts.
Doesn't matter if you cut or swage the crimp lip as long as the process is self guided/self centering.
You simply aren't taking that much off and you aren't taking material from anywhere that's 'Critical' for strength.
I've built machines that do both cut or crimp, and I can't tell a lick of difference as long as you don't cut/swage anything BUT the crimp lip.
No strength or accuracy changes at all.
The only warning is, if you power cut, don't get stupid...
Use a limiter that keeps you from cutting too deep, you are only *Supposed* to be removing the lip...
Guys using angle reamers & counter sink tools in drills get carried away, which is why I recommend mounting the drill and developing a positive stop of some sort.
This is usually cheap & easy, but I see guys doing it free hand all the time & generally with no consistancy at all....
They simply won't take a tip from a tool & die maker, spend a few extra bucks and/or slip a piece of tubing into place over the cutting tool to limit depth of cut.
To each their own, if it works for them, then more power to them.