ShootistPRS
New member
I use a lot of crimped (military) brass. I don't find it difficult to work with at all.
How many of you fuss with crimped primer brass?
- Thread starter Joe-ker
- Start date
Nosler guy
New member
"BY THE BUCKETFUL
Dillon swager and a couple of hand reamers (chucked in a cordless drill)"
I do this as well. You can pick up a small reamer that will chuck into your cordless drill at the home depot for 5 bucks. It's a conical shaped deburring bit that looks like an inside chamfering tool. I can remove primer crimps twice as fast as my electric case prep center this way. Just make sure the pitch is correct. I brought in a piece of brass to compare to the tooling before I purchased it.
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Dillon swager and a couple of hand reamers (chucked in a cordless drill)"
I do this as well. You can pick up a small reamer that will chuck into your cordless drill at the home depot for 5 bucks. It's a conical shaped deburring bit that looks like an inside chamfering tool. I can remove primer crimps twice as fast as my electric case prep center this way. Just make sure the pitch is correct. I brought in a piece of brass to compare to the tooling before I purchased it.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
JeepHammer
Moderator
I recondition brass on a volume/commercial scale.
I have half million sitting around at any given time...
If you are removing crimp and worried about primer depth, you are doing it wrong...
Crimp removal is just cutting or mashing the crimp out of the way.
Depth or hole size issues are when you use a primer pocket 'Uniforming' tool.
That's a cutting tool that reaches up into the primer pocket,
To cut that primer pocket a specific size in diameter,
Or specific depth from head (head stamped surface is the 'head').
Depends on brand/maker of brass,
Some primer pockets are die formed, pressed into the brass when the brass is pressed out of a 'Cup' of base material.
Other brands of brass have primer pockets that are cut with a cutting tool.
Most are pressed, simply because it saves the manufacturer a machining process and the fixtures/cutting tools & time.
When I'm processing once fired brass or manufacturing brass from base stock the customer will order a specific size primer pocket or flash hole size (for a specific primer they intend to use).
That ALWAYS costs extra!
Existing (once fired) brass you can 'Bump' the primer pocket around a little, but it takes a very powerful and accurate press to do it correctly.
There isn't a press like that on the common market, the common market presses simply 'Swage' the primer pocket so a common primer can be reinserted.
Machining takes a very specific clamp to hold the brass in place for a specified cut to take place accurately,
Which is why I DO NOT recommend the 'All In One' case processing centers for that particular reason, no guides or clamps to center, lousy off center/strange angle cuts.
Doesn't matter if you cut or swage the crimp lip as long as the process is self guided/self centering.
You simply aren't taking that much off and you aren't taking material from anywhere that's 'Critical' for strength.
I've built machines that do both cut or crimp, and I can't tell a lick of difference as long as you don't cut/swage anything BUT the crimp lip.
No strength or accuracy changes at all.
The only warning is, if you power cut, don't get stupid...
Use a limiter that keeps you from cutting too deep, you are only *Supposed* to be removing the lip...
Guys using angle reamers & counter sink tools in drills get carried away, which is why I recommend mounting the drill and developing a positive stop of some sort.
This is usually cheap & easy, but I see guys doing it free hand all the time & generally with no consistancy at all....
They simply won't take a tip from a tool & die maker, spend a few extra bucks and/or slip a piece of tubing into place over the cutting tool to limit depth of cut.
To each their own, if it works for them, then more power to them.
I have half million sitting around at any given time...
If you are removing crimp and worried about primer depth, you are doing it wrong...
Crimp removal is just cutting or mashing the crimp out of the way.
Depth or hole size issues are when you use a primer pocket 'Uniforming' tool.
That's a cutting tool that reaches up into the primer pocket,
To cut that primer pocket a specific size in diameter,
Or specific depth from head (head stamped surface is the 'head').
Depends on brand/maker of brass,
Some primer pockets are die formed, pressed into the brass when the brass is pressed out of a 'Cup' of base material.
Other brands of brass have primer pockets that are cut with a cutting tool.
Most are pressed, simply because it saves the manufacturer a machining process and the fixtures/cutting tools & time.
When I'm processing once fired brass or manufacturing brass from base stock the customer will order a specific size primer pocket or flash hole size (for a specific primer they intend to use).
That ALWAYS costs extra!
Existing (once fired) brass you can 'Bump' the primer pocket around a little, but it takes a very powerful and accurate press to do it correctly.
There isn't a press like that on the common market, the common market presses simply 'Swage' the primer pocket so a common primer can be reinserted.
Machining takes a very specific clamp to hold the brass in place for a specified cut to take place accurately,
Which is why I DO NOT recommend the 'All In One' case processing centers for that particular reason, no guides or clamps to center, lousy off center/strange angle cuts.
Doesn't matter if you cut or swage the crimp lip as long as the process is self guided/self centering.
You simply aren't taking that much off and you aren't taking material from anywhere that's 'Critical' for strength.
I've built machines that do both cut or crimp, and I can't tell a lick of difference as long as you don't cut/swage anything BUT the crimp lip.
No strength or accuracy changes at all.
The only warning is, if you power cut, don't get stupid...
Use a limiter that keeps you from cutting too deep, you are only *Supposed* to be removing the lip...
Guys using angle reamers & counter sink tools in drills get carried away, which is why I recommend mounting the drill and developing a positive stop of some sort.
This is usually cheap & easy, but I see guys doing it free hand all the time & generally with no consistancy at all....
They simply won't take a tip from a tool & die maker, spend a few extra bucks and/or slip a piece of tubing into place over the cutting tool to limit depth of cut.
To each their own, if it works for them, then more power to them.
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About 75% of all the brass I own is military "once fired". It is a one time deal to remove the crimp (all my brass was "de-crimped with a countersink) and actually really simple and fast. My ex-military brass is 9mm, 45 ACP, some 38 Specials, 7.62x51, 30-06, and IIRC, a few 7.62x39. I figger I'd have about 2,000 fewer cases if I didn't reuse mil surp...
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disseminator
New member
So I started out on 5.56 brass on a case prep center with the "crimp remover" bit that comes with it.
I found that the primer pocket tension varied a great deal more than normal and was very inconsistent. Yes, I reamed out too much brass that is the point.
Got the Dillon Super Swage and never looked back. It works great and primers are much tighter and more consistent now. Well worth the $100.
I have done several thousand cases now without issues....
I found that the primer pocket tension varied a great deal more than normal and was very inconsistent. Yes, I reamed out too much brass that is the point.
Got the Dillon Super Swage and never looked back. It works great and primers are much tighter and more consistent now. Well worth the $100.
I have done several thousand cases now without issues....
"Guys using angle reamers & counter sink tools in drills get carried away, which is why I recommend mounting the drill and developing a positive stop of some sort."
+++
Although many recommend such poorly controlled crimp removal operations using countersinks and such, I've seen lots of brass permanently deformed and ruined by doing so.
+++
Although many recommend such poorly controlled crimp removal operations using countersinks and such, I've seen lots of brass permanently deformed and ruined by doing so.
Boooooo Hissssssss
, It works great if you know how to work it 
I use the Lyman crimp remover chucked into my hand drill . Once you get a feel for it , it's fast and consistent . I ruined maybe 15 cases when I started 5000+ cases ago . I'll admit I'm sure it's not as consistent as using a drill press with a stop but it seems gtg the way I do it . I do have and first used the RCBS swager that you use in the press . I don't like that thing . It's slow and when you swage those crimps that are individual stakes . It often would push part of the staking up and leave a burr that would result in inconsistent head to datum measurements . Cutting the crimp out is the best way for the way I prep and reload .
totalloser
New member
*Shrug* It's been a while for me, but IME, almost no 5.56 mil brass needs a decrimp at all. I set the decap to just barely push out the primers, and when one has a real crimp, it deforms the primer and leaves it hanging out of the brass. Those ones I decrimp with RCBS, though I have some buyers remorse for not getting a Dillon due to the RCBS taking up space in my second press since it occupies the shell holder, not just a hole in the turret.
Obviously different folks have different goals with this sort thing. My goal was volume, reliability and brass life. With accuracy attempted, but not a priority.
Other crimped primers, I have not found this to be the situation- like 9mm and 7.62 nato- most need decrimp.
Obviously different folks have different goals with this sort thing. My goal was volume, reliability and brass life. With accuracy attempted, but not a priority.
Other crimped primers, I have not found this to be the situation- like 9mm and 7.62 nato- most need decrimp.
disseminator
New member
I have wrecked many primers trying to press them into crimped pockets thinking it would be fine. After about the hundredth crushed primer, I bought the Dillon Super Swage and it has been perfect priming ever since....
I now only use crimped FC and LC brass. The intact crimp and sealant on the primer is really the only sure way to tell if range brass is once fired. Sure, I probably bypass a lot of good brass, but dealing with only two head stamps makes everything more consistent. Hornady primer pocket reamer on the drill press to remove the crimps. I run a brass catcher on my AR when possible and track the # of uses for each batch of brass.
I'm guilty of loading many hundreds of ..223 rounds without removing the primer crimp. I stopped because I got tired of prying crushed primers out of my Lee primer cup on the turret press.
It was slowing things down a lot for me.
Now I use a drill bit thingy that makes the primers go in like buttah.
I haven't loaded any crimped cases on my progressive and don't plan to.
It was slowing things down a lot for me.
Now I use a drill bit thingy that makes the primers go in like buttah.
I haven't loaded any crimped cases on my progressive and don't plan to.
How many of you fuss with crimped primer brass?
I would hardly say I fuss with it. Initially a few hand twist with a #2 Phillips was adequate. I do have a RCBS swaging tool but for the most part I just run them across my little case prep center and then hand prime using either my old Lee or RCBS hand priming tool. A few seconds per case and done. Have a few fancy tools which I never really use or need to use. I do run my cases over a brush in the case prep center and clean the pockets which is likely a waste of time but they look pretty.
Ron
I would hardly say I fuss with it. Initially a few hand twist with a #2 Phillips was adequate. I do have a RCBS swaging tool but for the most part I just run them across my little case prep center and then hand prime using either my old Lee or RCBS hand priming tool. A few seconds per case and done. Have a few fancy tools which I never really use or need to use. I do run my cases over a brush in the case prep center and clean the pockets which is likely a waste of time but they look pretty.
Ron
michaeldarnold
New member
I mount my drill in an adjustable workbench which allows me to run the drill hands off. The drill has adjustable speed control which makes it much more controllable.
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Buy the RCBS Swager Die Combo and a Conversion Cup so it woks right. It's the best on the market.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jDvFwC6P6g&t=13s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jDvFwC6P6g&t=13s
I am another Dillon 600 swage fan. Cost a bit, around 106 bucks, but after about 6,000 pieces of Lake City 5.56 brass it will be paid off. I could probably still put it on eBay and get seventy five bucks back.
I buy the damaged 5.56 brass from EverGlades at about $45.00 per thousand and get over thousand pieces of usable brass. The Dillon will de-crimp the brass as fast as you can move your hands. (at least a piece per second or faster)
I de-prime and size the damaged brass on my Lee turret press, de-crimp with the
Dillon swage, and clean the brass with my ultrasonic. Some the culled brass can still be used with a .300 BLK.
I buy the damaged 5.56 brass from EverGlades at about $45.00 per thousand and get over thousand pieces of usable brass. The Dillon will de-crimp the brass as fast as you can move your hands. (at least a piece per second or faster)
I de-prime and size the damaged brass on my Lee turret press, de-crimp with the
Dillon swage, and clean the brass with my ultrasonic. Some the culled brass can still be used with a .300 BLK.