Since my brass reserves aren't as plentiful as I wish them to be, I saved some 5.56 nato I shot recently not realizing at first they were crimped. A little time spent hand deburring and testing by seating used primers and it doesn't seem too bad- I'm small time so it's only 100rds. Just curious if many even waste the time. I know I'll be a little more attentive when I purchase in the future now that I'm reloading again.
How many of you fuss with crimped primer brass?
- Thread starter Joe-ker
- Start date
chris in va
New member
I have a Lee crimp remover tool that removes it in a couple twists, so yes it's worth it.
ranchito457
New member
I load on 3 Hornady LNL's so when they came out with the pocket swager for 223 and 308 I jumped on them.I can't imagine doing it any other way now.Did a 1000 the other day in no time flat-I'd have to say as far as reloading is concerned it's the best money I've ever spent..Of course this only helps you out if you load on a LNL..
I have thousands of crimped cases including WCC 9mm cases that i had to remove the crimp . I would rather not have to do it but i get the cases pretty cheap . I even bought 1k of WCC-12 9mm cases that clearly had what looked like a. crimp but not one of them needed swaging .
That first case prep session takes quite a bit more effort .
That first case prep session takes quite a bit more effort .
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All military cartridges are crimped. It's a requirement to prevent primers popping out in full-auto guns and jamming them up. But look around on the web and there are lots of folks selling it because a lot of people don't want to pay for new brass. You can buy it already "processed", so it has been cleaned and resized and the primer crimp removed. You can even buy it re-primed. But all these extra services cost you something.
I've been using a Dillon 600 primer pocket swager for about 25 years. Works great.
I've been using a Dillon 600 primer pocket swager for about 25 years. Works great.
FrankenMauser
New member
Brass is brass.
If it's crimped small primer pocket brass, I run a reamer in just a little, to remove burrs or sharp edges. Then it gets swaged with a CH-4D crimp removal tool.
If it's larger primer pocket brass, I use a case mouth chamfering/deburring tool or primer pocket reaming tool to cut the crimp from the pocket. (I do have a larger pocket swaging tool in the CH-4D kit. I just usually don't need to get it out, due to small lots of brass.)
Once fixed, you never have to touch the crimp again.
If it's crimped small primer pocket brass, I run a reamer in just a little, to remove burrs or sharp edges. Then it gets swaged with a CH-4D crimp removal tool.
If it's larger primer pocket brass, I use a case mouth chamfering/deburring tool or primer pocket reaming tool to cut the crimp from the pocket. (I do have a larger pocket swaging tool in the CH-4D kit. I just usually don't need to get it out, due to small lots of brass.)
Once fixed, you never have to touch the crimp again.
I have de crimped tens of thousands of rifle rounds with my Dillion Super Swage.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/super-swage-600_8_8_25263.html
Though I have used the spay blade on a stockman knife to cut the crimp out of 5.56 mm brass.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/super-swage-600_8_8_25263.html
Though I have used the spay blade on a stockman knife to cut the crimp out of 5.56 mm brass.
I've swaged 1000's of military .223/5.56 and 30-06 brass cases with the inexpensive RCBS Swager dies.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/235832/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2
Note it works only on rams that are 1" or less. The case stripper has to go down over the ram. Best reviews go to Dillon's Swager. RCBS makes a benchtop model too.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/235832/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2
Note it works only on rams that are 1" or less. The case stripper has to go down over the ram. Best reviews go to Dillon's Swager. RCBS makes a benchtop model too.
50 shooter
New member
Crimped primers are a good way to get good brass at lower prices. Most reloaders don't want to deal with them and will pass on buying them. It's a one time thing that you have to deal with and then never worry about it again.
I use a chamfer to do all the brass that needs to get done and then a primer pocket uniformer if needed. Staked primers are usually the worst as the chamfer can bounce over them, you have to go easy on these to do them right. Ring type come with their own set of issues because it can push the chamfer more to one side.
So buy away and just take the time to get it done right, whether it's using a chamfer tool or a swagging tool. Good luck and keep us posted on how you're doing.
I use a chamfer to do all the brass that needs to get done and then a primer pocket uniformer if needed. Staked primers are usually the worst as the chamfer can bounce over them, you have to go easy on these to do them right. Ring type come with their own set of issues because it can push the chamfer more to one side.
So buy away and just take the time to get it done right, whether it's using a chamfer tool or a swagging tool. Good luck and keep us posted on how you're doing.
jwrowland77
New member
Worth it to me. I actually use LC brass for a match load in F-Class when I want to piddle around with my .223.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
I was ahead of the shortage curve when it involves 223. Bought a dealers case of Bulk Winchester brass 2-3000 pcs back in the late 90s. Couple hundred dollars I believe I paid for that bulk case. Since I shoot a Rem Model 7 223 I do believe in my lifetime I'll never see the bottom flaps of that 223 box. Although old reloaders habits kinda override what I should be doing. >Let fly!!
"Yep I Still pick up my once fired brass"
So to answer the OP question Do I bother with Military crimped brass? Oh hell NO.
"Yep I Still pick up my once fired brass"
So to answer the OP question Do I bother with Military crimped brass? Oh hell NO.
JeepHammer
Moderator
I'm on the wagon with the rest of the guys, Milbrass is high quality 'Range' brass that with a little work can be 'Match' grade brass.
I buy it 2,500 to 3,000 pounds at a time.
Hand cutting primer crimps is a little time consuming and can be hard on the hands,
BUT,
You only do it ONCE, from then on throughout the life of the brass it's trouble free high quality cartridge brass that will serve you well.
If you are only doing 100 at a time, then hand twist tool,
If you sit down and do 500 or 1,000 at a time, spend the money on a bench mounted swaging tool (under $100 most times), makes the job MUCH easier.
*IF* you get into several thousand at a time, get a progressive press that supports auto swaging (like Dillon Super 1050)
No sense in buying more than you need, $20 to $2,000 depending on volume done...
I would stay away from 'Case Processing Centers', the motorized contraptions that have several rotating tools hanging out in space.
It's not the rotating tools, it's the fact there are no guides (other than your fingers/eyeball) to keep the brass true & square on the cutting tools.
Oddball, out of square cuts are common...
When you reach the point of 'Needing' something like that, there are better ways of doing all functions that 'All In One' unit does.
I buy it 2,500 to 3,000 pounds at a time.
Hand cutting primer crimps is a little time consuming and can be hard on the hands,
BUT,
You only do it ONCE, from then on throughout the life of the brass it's trouble free high quality cartridge brass that will serve you well.
If you are only doing 100 at a time, then hand twist tool,
If you sit down and do 500 or 1,000 at a time, spend the money on a bench mounted swaging tool (under $100 most times), makes the job MUCH easier.
*IF* you get into several thousand at a time, get a progressive press that supports auto swaging (like Dillon Super 1050)
No sense in buying more than you need, $20 to $2,000 depending on volume done...
I would stay away from 'Case Processing Centers', the motorized contraptions that have several rotating tools hanging out in space.
It's not the rotating tools, it's the fact there are no guides (other than your fingers/eyeball) to keep the brass true & square on the cutting tools.
Oddball, out of square cuts are common...
When you reach the point of 'Needing' something like that, there are better ways of doing all functions that 'All In One' unit does.
berettaprofessor
New member
I use a primer pocket reamer on a Franklin Case Trimmer for fast, efficient "decrimping". Haven't noticed a problem with the "oddball" cuts mentioned above.
I buy it 2,500 to 3,000 pounds at a time.
Holy cow Jeephammer!!!!!!
. You're a small army LOL! But seriously, thanks for all the replies. I think I'll just stick to my hand reamer for the little amount I plan on doing. I was a little concerned about reaming too much and primers might not have a deep enough pocket. I've been checking them by sliding a paper clip to make sure there is a smooth edge on the pocket and quitting there.
Holy cow Jeephammer!!!!!!
. You're a small army LOL! But seriously, thanks for all the replies. I think I'll just stick to my hand reamer for the little amount I plan on doing. I was a little concerned about reaming too much and primers might not have a deep enough pocket. I've been checking them by sliding a paper clip to make sure there is a smooth edge on the pocket and quitting there.condor bravo
New member
Primer pocket swagers are fine but....
there's yet a better way:
From time to time members have indicated that they use an electric drill and drill bit for the job. This seemed dubious and archaic at best until finally giving it a try. I have the swager tools as mentioned but they are not consistent and still result in some scraped primers as they are being inserted. So why not give the drill bit method a try? Doing that, it worked perfectly and does not overcut the primer pocket and provides an exact fit without a single scraped primers. I have used the method with large primer pockets only and a 15/64 inch drill bit. A 3/16 inch bit should be right for small primer pockets. Give that a try if hand reamers are not satisfactory enough. Note that you don't drill down the depth of the pocket, just enough to remove the crimp as determined by eyesight. Wear gloves when doing this task.
there's yet a better way:
From time to time members have indicated that they use an electric drill and drill bit for the job. This seemed dubious and archaic at best until finally giving it a try. I have the swager tools as mentioned but they are not consistent and still result in some scraped primers as they are being inserted. So why not give the drill bit method a try? Doing that, it worked perfectly and does not overcut the primer pocket and provides an exact fit without a single scraped primers. I have used the method with large primer pockets only and a 15/64 inch drill bit. A 3/16 inch bit should be right for small primer pockets. Give that a try if hand reamers are not satisfactory enough. Note that you don't drill down the depth of the pocket, just enough to remove the crimp as determined by eyesight. Wear gloves when doing this task.
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I use the drill my self and IMHO it's as fast as any other method . I have the drill in my left hand . I size and or decap with my right and when the case is pulled from the shell holder it goes straight to the drill to remove the crimp . I did 700 223 cases in an hour last month . That included depriming . That's one every 4 or 5 seconds , again including depriming at the same time . I was happy with that .