How make Mossberg 500 better for trap?
- Thread starter MWalsh
- Start date
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
Neoprene cheek pad
Better recoil pad.
Drill some holes and fill with lead.
Load a shell or two completely full of lead and keep them in the tube.
Problem is, by the time you do all this stuff you have some decent time and money into it. These accessories are pretty much useless whether you continue to shoot trap and get a better gun or stop all together. You can buy a used gun and resell it for less of a loss IMO.
Better recoil pad.
Drill some holes and fill with lead.
Load a shell or two completely full of lead and keep them in the tube.
Problem is, by the time you do all this stuff you have some decent time and money into it. These accessories are pretty much useless whether you continue to shoot trap and get a better gun or stop all together. You can buy a used gun and resell it for less of a loss IMO.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
On the light straighter stock guns the repetitive recoil into your cheek can be somewhat punishing in and of itself and cause a flinch. The neoprene will help with that a little. It will change your cheek weld, but I would be surprised if it made your shooting worse as the mossberg should come from the factory get so the pattern is more or less under the bead. Most trap shooters want the pattern just above the bead for a hold similar to "sub-six."
Like I said, I'd look for a used low-end gun, like a Stoeger trap, and plan to sell it if you upgrade or get out.
Like I said, I'd look for a used low-end gun, like a Stoeger trap, and plan to sell it if you upgrade or get out.
Not saying I won't get a trapgun, but this week I worked on the attached.
1) Replaced hard rubber recoil pad with $25 Limbsaver pad. Reduced weight almost an ounce, but it's way softer
2) Added almost 15 oz to the stock for a net increase in gun weight of 14 oz.
For the stock weight I found that 3/4" steel tube from home depot fit beautifully in the hole (shotgun shells actually do not--just a touch too wide). I then emptied the shot from a bunch of cheap target loads.
I taped the end of the steel tube with foil tape I had on hand, standing it on one end. Took a tuna can, bent one edge to make it sharper for pouring, put a bunch of the lead shot into it, and took a propane torch to it (outside!). The shot readily melted and poured into the tube. The reason I melted the lead is that spheres in a space only fill up around 2/3rd of the available area and I wanted maximum density.
Haven't tried it yet but it's only pulled the center of gravity of the gun back around 1.5". It feels noticeably heavier and I think combined with the pad should work well.
If I want more recoil reduction I will attach some weights further forward. Even if I only use it for slugs down the line the extra weight and pad should make shooting them a better experience.
1) Replaced hard rubber recoil pad with $25 Limbsaver pad. Reduced weight almost an ounce, but it's way softer
2) Added almost 15 oz to the stock for a net increase in gun weight of 14 oz.
For the stock weight I found that 3/4" steel tube from home depot fit beautifully in the hole (shotgun shells actually do not--just a touch too wide). I then emptied the shot from a bunch of cheap target loads.
I taped the end of the steel tube with foil tape I had on hand, standing it on one end. Took a tuna can, bent one edge to make it sharper for pouring, put a bunch of the lead shot into it, and took a propane torch to it (outside!). The shot readily melted and poured into the tube. The reason I melted the lead is that spheres in a space only fill up around 2/3rd of the available area and I wanted maximum density.
Haven't tried it yet but it's only pulled the center of gravity of the gun back around 1.5". It feels noticeably heavier and I think combined with the pad should work well.
If I want more recoil reduction I will attach some weights further forward. Even if I only use it for slugs down the line the extra weight and pad should make shooting them a better experience.
