How good do I have to be to build a 1911 myself?

D

Don Gwinn

Staff Emeritus
I've been toying with the idea of building a 1911 for myself lately. I am not a gunsmith, but I'm fair to middlin' with tools and a quick learner. The attractive part for me is being able to pick and choose parts and take my time. I just can't afford to plunk down $500+ for a gun for awhile, and that just gets me in the door with a 1911. Even a Springfield Loaded model would need a thing or two (like an arched mainspring housing and a dehorning) to my taste, after I've already spent nearly $600 out the door for the pistol. Building my own, I could get either a frame or a slide first and work at the more minor parts, then get the next big ticket item later.

Anyway, how difficult would such a project be? How much instruction would I need--would one of the videos on the market and a copy of Brownell's be enough? Is there any part of the process that I will absolutely have to turn over to a professional?
Seems to me that most of the work is the careful fitting of the slide to frame, barrel to slide/bushing, and the barrel hood and lugs. What am I missing?
 
Its not dificult. Most of the parts are made in such a way that they would fit average frame and slide. My suggestion is to get a stainless frame and slide, because iven if you do have to do some minor fitting, it is much easier on stainless because it is softer then carbon still, and you don't nave to worry about the finish.
As far as money, if you want to use quality performance grade parts, the gun will not be any cheaper then most factory manufactured 1911s.
 
I'd buy a copy of Halleck's book on the 1911.

My own preference is to look for an old, sorta-rusty clunker that's been used and abused. They're easy to clean up, and other than the barrel, the parts are cheap. Down the road, you can always get it reblued...

Aside from the fact that Ol' Slabsides fits my hand real good, they're just a piece of cake to work on.

My $0.02,

Art
 
I recommend Kuhnhausen's books and Wilson's Video Series on customizing the 1911. Unfortunately, you can no longer get Norinco guns which used to be perfect for what you want to do. Try to find something used to start on. Pay particular attention to the condition of the slide and frame. Everything else is replaceable at reasonable to cheap cost.
 
I built a gun, using parts from about ten different makers. Virtually every part had to be "adjusted" to fit. If you buy all of your components from one maker (McCormick, Wilson, Caspian), they're less likely to need extensive fitting. Get the Kuhnhausen shop manual(s).
 
Sounds perfect.

Just to clarify, it's OK if I don't save money. I expect to pay for what I get, and I see no point in putting that much time and work into cheap, junky parts. All I care about is being able to spread out the payments, so to speak. I don't mind paying around $600, but it will be nice to be ablee to spend it a little at a time, $100 here and $200 there. I just can't see how I'll be able to plunk down $5-600 anytime in the next year or so, including layaway.

First thing I'll buy will be the book or video. Thanks, guys.
 
Don,
I just embarked on a similar journey. First, I bought a well used, but well cared for Springfield.

Before I bought it, I purchased both volumes of Kuhnhausen's shop manuals on the .45.

Next thing I did was take my measuring instruments with me when I went to check out the Springfield to check out the basic slide to frame fit because I new the pistol had around 30k rounds through it and figured I probably would need a match barrel and bushing.

I measured the slide to frame fit, the slide lugs where the barrel engages on lockup, and the easy to check hole tolerances. The slide to frame fit was within National Match tolerances so that made it a go for me. The hole tolerances and slide lugs were within spec. as well, showing no unusual wear.

What wasn't in spec. was the barrel OD and the bushing ID. However, the slide's diameter for fitting the bushing was not oversized and within spec.

I know the 1911 experts will find fault with what I did and mention something a novice like myself would overlook and shouldn't have, but, hey, I'm happy with the purchase.

I can't stress enough the importance of Kuhnhausen's 2 books. These manuals have EVERY spec. imaginable on these pistols and will help make sure you don't get screwed on your purchase. This guy really knows these pistols.

I bought the 2 Kuhnhausen books from Midwayusa.

I have not bought any videos on the 1911 so will have to defer judgement on those.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.
 
i have had similar feelings. a friend of mine has a Norinco 1911 he has wanted to sell me for $275.00. it has not been fired much at all but from what i have seen it needs some attention to bring out its true potential. my question is this; would it be better to just buy a new Kimber with the features i want or build on a decent but average stock gun?
 
riddleof steel....

if the Norinco was offered to me, I'd buy it. If you start with a bare bones, stock as a stove 1911 and build to what you want the result will be more "your" pistol than if you buy one pre-customized, as it were. You may find that the features that you think you want now are not what yopu want in the end and if the pistol has those features now, it will cost you to replace them later anyway. My $0.02 on the matter.
 
This is definitely a go; I talked to the wife and even she approves. Unless there's something cheap yet useful at the next gun show, I'll probably go from the ground up. I'm not in a hurry.
 
Riddle of steele,

It really depends on where you want to go with this. Yeah, If you really want to wind up with the Kimber, then it is a waste of money (unless you enjoy the process) to buy the Norince and add stuff. Also, it will always be a Norinco! Sort of like buying a house in a so so neighborhood and adding on to it until it is a a mansion.......It's still in a so- so neighborhood.

OTOH, and you have to know yourself and be perfectly honest here, If you can be happy with a Norince, then they are not bad pieces. Notice I didn't say "for the money" because a nice piece is a nice piece and junk is junk. The frames and slide are good. They do not have the high polish blueing, etc, etc but they shoot well. I think they need the ramp polished and the barrel throated and a trigger job. After that the will run good and be reliable and accurate......They still will not show like a Kimber but they will be very utilitarian (reliable, accurate, dependable) The work I mentioned should probably be done by son one with experience,,,as in a Smith type person. Around here that might run $150.00. Soooo you would have $275.00 + $150.00 = $425.00...but it still wouldn't be a Kimber or a Springfield. Now if you refinished it and uyou could do your our polishing and pay some one to put it in their tank you might get that done for Uh.....say UH frame and slide...UH....$50.00 then you would have $525.00. Then if you decide that you want to add a beavertail safety and a commander hammer you should have bought the Kimber! And you will not likely get your money out of it.

So, you have to know what you want from the beginning, spend the $150.00 and no more and be happy or go for the Kimber or Springfield in the beginning.

This happens to all of us. It really halps if you can do your own work.

PigPen
 
riddleofsteel,
It will still be a Norinco. You will never get what you put in to it. It is a lot like dropping $400 - $500 on a Ruger 10/22. It may make a real shooter, but, it is a shooter only you can appreciate. If you don't plan on selling, no problem.

I opted for the Springfield because it was available. Not a bad gun to start with, but I would have preferred a Colt.

I would suggest you start with a Colt, SA, or Kimber if possible for the money. The box stock models on the used market are still affordable.

Bottom line is though, even I would have trouble selling the Springfield to recoup the money I sink into it. Fortunately, other than the match barrel and bushing and putting on different sights I won't be sinking too much into it other than a little polishing and TLC. I will have a great shooting pistol and I can retire my Gold Cup to the safe.
 
Repeat constantly: "I can always take MORE off but I can'T ADD it back"........


Enjoy! (Ed Brown, Chip McCormick, Nowlin, Caspian parts.)
 
I was looking at Essex Arms website last night. What does everyone think of Essex's quality? Seems like a good compromise between Baer and junk. Not too expensive, but fairly good quality.

I'm not sure I understand what an 80% frame or slide would be. What has to be done to such a piece? If it doesn't take an FFL to buy, won't I legally be building a new gun, which takes even more paperwork? I thought BATF would frown on such things.
 
go with the Essex,I built 2 on their frames and slides,stainless and phosphate black , its easy if ya have
the books and patience,some tools too, which will cost as much as the frame and slide, ita a slap on the back when you take a gun you made and it fires perfect,only troubles I had was barrel timing,some slide fit problems, but thats
all, never messed with sears or trying for perfect trigger pull, both 1911s I made will fire ball ammo allday, HPs who
cares?George and ALL on the smithy have allways helped too.
 
(A7) Does the GCA prohibit anyone from making a handgun, shotgun or rifle?
With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a nonlicensee provided
it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms.
However, a person is prohibited from making a semiautomatic assault weapon or
assembling a nonsporting semiautomatic rifle or nonsporting shotgun from
imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a tax
payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machinegun will not be
approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm is being
made for a Federal or State agency.
[18 U.S.C. 922(o), (r), (v), and 923, 27 CFR 178.39, 178.40, 178.41 and
179.105]
 
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