How easy is it to rebarrel a Remington 700

Per above, that may apply to a Remington, don't know, don't have one.

You also have to actually be able to shoot a good group. Doesn't mean you are lame, just most hunters are not and don't need to shoot 3/8 inch groups, vast majority with 1.5 out to 600 yards are good (size of animal counts of course) - that was me back in the day.

Savage is a different story which is why I have them.

Ok, lets get over the head space thing.

Savage has a SN id on theirs, I can and have cross shot the two long action bolts in the other gun. But they say, carefully check and make sure its the same, otherwise its not good. Or you order an aftermarket one with no number............

Headspaces is blown totally out of proportions. Has become a magic mantra. Like the world ends if not right (shoot a British 303 if you want to see how far you can really take it)

one of three things happens with head space.

1. Its fine and shoots factory - good to go.

2. Its so long it won't shoot anything as the shoulder of the cartridge does not bump up against the chamber when the pin goes forward and it just goes deeper in the chamber when you try to fire.

3. Its long but shoots.

4. Its so short you can't get a factory round in (that needs adjust like 2 does)

Good to go, either you don't reload and its a one time deal or you do and you work with that longer headspace and bump the thing back minimal distance on resize.

How do I know, been there and done that. All three, not always on purpose (see number 2)
 
Headspace does affect accuracy. Depends on the rifle, and the shooter, whether or not they handload- and can shoot the difference.

From Redding's website:
http://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/145-dealing-with-headspace


The goal of every conciencious reloader should be to use proven and practical reloading procedures in order to ensure that the bullet/case combination is as perfectly aligned with the center of the bore as possible. The more centered up the cartridge, the more accuracy we can expect. However, if the cartridge is laying loose in the bottom of the chamber because of a generous headspace dimension, it's obvious that the bullet will be pointed closer to the bottom of the bore rather than the center. Consequently, accuracy conscious shooters will want to reduce headspace to the absolute minimum i.e. where the shoulder of the case is against the front of the chamber wall and the bolt/breech face of the firearm is very close to or even lightly touching the head of the case.
 
Well folks, I shot my Remington 700 XCR in 7mm-08 today while comparing it to my Browning A-Bolt II Stainless Stalker in 30-06.

At 100 yards that little 7mm put all three shots well inside an inch! The -06 was a bit larger group, just over 1 inch, but then I was using some eastern block (Perfecta) softpoints and not good stuff like Federal Fusion which is what I used in my 7mm-08.

Thus I will not rebarrel my 700!

Deaf
 
Headspace does affect accuracy. Depends on the rifle, and the shooter, whether or not they handload- and can shoot the difference.
Click to expand...

I did not say the first shot had no accuracy affect.

I did say at worst your first shot fire forms the case and if you do the right reloading procedure (minimum bump back) then its irrelevant as you now have a tight fit.

And it takes shooing well under 1/2 MOA to see that.

The point is head space has gotten to be a huge bugaboo and its not.

Most mil surplus guns are out on the ragged edge of head space allowance and they do just fine.
 
I did say at worst your first shot fire forms the case and if you do the right reloading procedure (minimum bump back)
Click to expand...

And I ask again how can a reloader bump the shoulder back? It is impossible to size a case and move the shoulder back with a die that has full body support, and then there are claims a reloader can accidently bump it back:eek:

Changing the barrel: I measure the length of the chamber on the rifle before removing the barrel, I check clearance between the case from the shoulder of the case to the case head and chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face. I know, everyone is soooo confused, nut, if I checked case head protrusion on the barrel I remove and match the case head protrusion on the repayment I can not miss 'it' by more than .001".

To me it does not matter what receiver I am working on, I am required to determine how the barrel fits the receiver. A smith should be able to determine the amount of clearance before he screws the two pieces together.

I have screwed the two pieces together with a gage in the chamber, once everything bottomed out I measured the gap between the receiver and barrel shoulder at the end of the threads. The tricky part is figuring a way to use one gage for all of them, not tricky for me but no one else does it so I assume I am the only one. There was one smith that 'did it' 70+ years ago.

F. Guffey
 
To me it does not matter what receiver I am working on, I am required to determine how the barrel fits the receiver. A smith should be able to determine the amount of clearance before he screws the two pieces together.
Click to expand...

Of course. However, thread crush/etc. is impossible to nail down exactly. I allow .003 total typically, .002 for that and .001 for clearance over "go". I wouldn't measure an existing chamber and match it, unless headspace with that original barrel were confirmed to be that beforehand.

I have screwed the two pieces together with a gage in the chamber, once everything bottomed out I measured the gap between the receiver and barrel shoulder at the end of the threads. The tricky part is figuring a way to use one gage for all of them, not tricky for me but no one else does it so I assume I am the only one. There was one smith that 'did it' 70+ years ago.
Click to expand...

I don't know any other way of sneaking up on the final chamber depth other than that ^^. Several sets of feeler gauges...
 
Slightly off topic and as a matter of curiosity has anyone used the "pull through" reamers? Been a few decades but when I was re-barreling M1 Garands and M1A rifles I used them. I also used them on Remington 700 rifles. Think I still have a few in 30-06 and 308 which are new. Used them for final finishing and I liked them as they worked well. Has anyone else used them?

Ron
 
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