How do you remove your cast bullets?

An excellent mould prep , better than smoking , is : clean the blocks and cavities with acetone and a Oral-B toothbrush (they don't melt) . let dry and give cavities a light coat of Dry Film Lubricant ( like Liquid Wrench or Crc Dry Lube ) they leave a thin film of micro- Teflon and it doesn't contaminate the lead and cause wrinkled bullets .
After tapping open the sprue plate , tap the handle hinge pin and the bullets will just about jump out the mould . After a few casting sessions the mould gets seasoned and broken in and you hardly ever need to use the dry film spray after that ...but I use it on the sprue plate , top and underside and on the top of the blocks ... helps keep lead from sticking to these places .
Sounds crazy ...but just try it once , I swear it works better than anything...lead will not stick and it doesn't cause wrinkled bullets .

As for opening I put some pressure to open the handles and tap the handle hinge (pivot) pin , lightly , once or twice , the mould will usually open right up .
If you ever buy a NOE mould it will ruin you for life ...they cast so easily you will be spoiled forever .
Gary
 
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I don't water quench my cast rounds. I powder coat weeks to months after the bullets have been cast. After I powder coat the rounds, they go through the sizing die. The sized powder-coated rounds may sit for weeks to months before they are loaded.

I use a very wide range of scrap lead. I don't hardness test. Cast lead gets powder coated to avoid leading. My hollow points get a 9mm piece of annealed brass to make it's jacket.

Typically, those who care a lot about their lead hardness don't coat or jacket their rounds and monitor and manage the lead hardness in an effort to reduce barrel leading. Some claim no barrel leading.

My processes doesn't care what my lead alloy and hardness is which is what suits me as I don't have to agonize over it or measure it and I can take any lead inputs I trip across. Pure lead costs more. Would it be "ideal" if I used pure lead wire to a specific size for my JHP lead cores? - Sure - but then I couldn't make them as dirt cheaply as I do. I can make a box of 50 JHP's for as little as $5 in bought supplies. If I were to do that with pure lead wire, that'd cost me as much as $15 a box and the only thing I'd have to show for it is the JHP might open up a bit better with the softer pure lead. As I'm happy with the performance of my JHP's with scrap lead, the difference isn't worth $10 more per box.
 
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