How do I get rid of heavy leading in a revolver barrel?

I have made limited use aluminum window screen I bought at the hardware store. I twisted some into a strip and dragged it back and forth in the barrel. I also had some luck with patches and old style white tooth paste. I am thinking of using aluminium screen cut up into patches. I haven't done a lot of this.
 
Be careful with aluminum. Aluminum itself isn't harder than steel, but aluminum oxide sure is.

My bet is most exposed aluminum, such as that in a screen, has a coating of aluminum oxide on it.
 
The barrel is clean!

I found genuine "chore boy" scrubbers at the third place that I tried.

I started with a .40 jag and 20-24 layers of the copper mesh at first. Then I used a .38 jag with a Kroil soaked 2" round patch covered with copper mesh and dipped in Butch's bore cleaner followed by a .44 jag/Kroil/butch's.

I finished it with a few CLP patches to get the Butch's stuff cleaned out followed by a couple of dry patches.

I won't be shooting any more cast lead with this gun for a while...
 
Bill DeShivs - I didn't know grinding wheels were made of AO. Thanks.
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Some/most. There are others that are for grinding carbide that are green (Silcone Carbide) grinding wheels and even diamond coated wheels. But, the commonly used/occurring are Aluminum Oxide grit. The code stamped on the six letter code (for instance: A-36-L-5-V-23) on the wheel will indicate: Abrasive type, Grain size, Grade, Structure, Bond Type, and lastly, a Manufacturer's Record.
 
A lot of Norton abrasive sheets just say "Aluminum Oxide". Fused versions in grinding wheels are called alundum. Aluminum oxide (aka alumina) abrasive is a lot like garnet in that the grains are rounder and less sharp than silicone carbide or boron carbide or diamond. It makes a smoother surface, generally speaking, but cuts more slowly.

All this begs the question about whether oxide on the surface of a screen, which is smooth rather than granular, and porous rather than fused into solid grains is actually going to cut or just polish a little. I haven't done the aluminum screen experiment, but suspect polishing is about the worst that would happen unless you shot aluminum bullets all the time.


DarthNul,

sounds like you got it done. Next time get it wet with Kroil and leave that sit overnight and I think you'll find the lead pops off the surface even more easily. If you want to use lead bullets regularly, consider light firelapping to polish the bore surface, as this cuts down on lead adhesion.

I've also had good luck with Sharpshoot'R NO-LEAD. Over a period of an hour it reacts with the lead to form a black crumbly compound that patches right out.

Avoid the vinegar and peroxide trick unless your gun is stainless. That mix will take bluing off.
 
Before you screw up the barrel try some wipe out and follow directions. Missouri bullets web site has a primer on bullet leading.
 
There is also the Lead Away cloth.
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Yes there is, works on shotguns. Then there are screens for separators, or find a separator and remove the screen. I have cans with black and yellow stamped with the name 'Lead Out'. I also have mercury in the liquid form. I have never used it because everything else has worked.

Then there was that time when it was suggested reloaders load bullets backwards for cleaning barrels, I never liked that ideal. Because I did not think the lead could get out of the way fast enough. If the lead does not get out of the way the bullet passes it.

F. Guffey
 
For the fastest, simplest lead removal, just buy a pad of Big 45 frontier metal and bore cleaner. It just works. I had Lewis Lead remover, threw it away years ago. Use the frontier metal cleaner like you would a copper choreboy, and the lead is gone in a minute. It doesn't fall apart like the copper pads either. Google that product, try it, and you'll never go back.
 
Don: I bought 3 pads from Leader Guns, in Mitchell, SD last summer, when passing through, so I'm sure they are still operating. Call them at 605-996-03106, and I'll bet they would be happy to mail you some.
 
Don,

They just recently upgraded their previously awful looking web site. Toll free number is there, so I'm sure they're still in place.

I see the instructions have changed (unless my memory is really bad) on No-lead and so is the residue color description different from what I've seen. I have the old 2-part version of the product, though, so perhaps that accounts for it.

The lead wipe cloths (you can find the original patent on USPTO.gov) contains 400 grit aluminum oxide abrasive. The rounded shape of the particles doesn't cut fast, but on something soft, like aluminum, it does leave a visible scuff, so just be aware you are using an abrasive and that it will polish metal.
 
Back a few years I was spending a lot of time canoeing. People that used Aluminum canoes would leave silver marks (smear) on rocks.

When you try to thread a steel (hard) bolt in to a aluminum head the threads of the bolt grab the softer head causing friction.

I believe the aluminum will foul the bore causing more problems.
 
Aluminum oxide is very hard. It won't rub off on the bore and foul it. Aluminum and aluminum oxide have very different properties.
 
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