How bad are the triggers, CZ75?

Pretty bad, but then I am a "trigger diva" who learned on 1911s, good .22s, and good revolvers and expect better than the Czechs do. Gunsmithing is possible, though.
"Break in" did not improve the trigger pull on the two guns I attempted it with, I don't see why it would help a CZ to any great extent.

But I do like the guns and my tuned "pre-B" is a good shooter.
 
"...complaints about the trigger..." Factory triggers are usually poor due to frivolous U.S. law suits. All new firearms require a trigger job out of the box.
However, when the CZ 75 first came here, 35 plus years ago, long before they got Stateside, every one of 'em came with a factory test target in the box. No idea what ammo or distance. All of 'em were at least 2" groups. Been crying ever since because the CZ 75 is too big for my hand. Despite them being a BHP clone, the trigger is too far forward. It's like a DA only trigger.
 
T. O'Heir said:
"...complaints about the trigger..." Factory triggers are usually poor due to frivolous U.S. law suits. All new firearms require a trigger job out of the box.
However, when the CZ 75 first came here, 35 plus years ago, long before they got Stateside, every one of 'em came with a factory test target in the box. No idea what ammo or distance. All of 'em were at least 2" groups. Been crying ever since because the CZ 75 is too big for my hand. Despite them being a BHP clone, the trigger is too far forward. It's like a DA only trigger.
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The CZ 75 is in no way a BHP clone. If the DA pull reach is too long there are a few steps you can take to shorten it. First is slim alum grips. The second is the short reach trigger from Cajun Gun Works. It will put the DA closer to the decocked position of say a P01. For most people the SA is not an issue.

Pretty bad, but then I am a "trigger diva" who learned on 1911s, good .22s, and good revolvers and expect better than the Czechs do. Gunsmithing is possible, though.
"Break in" did not improve the trigger pull on the two guns I attempted it with, I don't see why it would help a CZ to any great extent.

But I do like the guns and my tuned "pre-B" is a good shooter.
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It is not a fair comparison IHMO to compare a DA/SA CZ75 B to a 1911. I more comparable comparison would be the 1911 to a SAO CZ75 variant. 1911 is still going to win but I would in no way call the CZ trigger "bad". Clearly YMMV
 
I admit that I didn't read all posts, but...

HUH? Bad triggers on CZ75's? Have I slipped into an alternative reality?

I own :
Walther P38,
Beretta 96FS,
Sig P226
S&W 6906, 669, 50
CZ75

Of these iconic 9mm, duty sized, DA/SA pistols, the CZ75 is hands down the best DA & SA trigger. I prefer it, other shooters prefer it, new shooters prefer it. I've measured the trigger weights of all & the CZ is as light or lighter than the others. Subjectively, it is smoother than the others.

I admit that I'm working from a sample of one of each handgun listed, so maybe my collection is an aberration. YMMV
 
HUH? Bad triggers on CZ75's? Have I slipped into an alternative reality?
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Ha that's what I thought at first. Alas triggers are a subjective topic.

Hangfire I have no experience with the smiths or the Walther. I do have experience with the Beretta, SIG, and CZ. Beretta has a decent trigger, but not as good as a broken in cz75 or a SIG. The old cz75 triggers aren't the best out of the box, but they break in great. Best of all, with a lift!e polishing and some springs they are likely the best da\sa trigger you can get (excluding high end gunsmithing jobs). Sig triggers always feel better dryfiring to me, but I just don't shoot the as well as CZ.

Now the new omega triggers CZ uses... They are pretty darn good out the box. Still needs a lighter mainspring, but other than that its good to go. An omega trigger with some spring upgrades will have a trigger every bit as good as a SIG, all for less than you can buy a good used p226 for.
 
I'd assume the OP was asking about CZ75's in comparison to other DA/SA handguns, hence my post above. I didn't compare it to my High Power, Tokarev, or either of my 1911's since those are SA and therefore a different creature from the DA/SA. And I didn't compare CZ's to my striker fired Glocks, XD's, or M&P since they are also a different creature than SA/SA. There are plenty of older threads on those comparisons.

Shooting action competition like IDPA, etc. calls got one type of trigger system, bullseye target competition calls for another type. And so forth for combat pistols and civilian EDC. Personally I'm not comfortable using my 3.5 pound Springfield 1911 for EDC or even home defense - it fires when I start just THINKING about squeezing the trigger.

But again, for a full sized duty gun, CZ75 has a great DA/SA trigger.
 
I own a lot of CZ clones and a friend of mine owns about every CZ made, and I never had any problems with the triggers. I don't find that "bad" or heavy triggers bother me, unless they are so bad they are "crunchy". I've had a few guns that came with that, um, feature, but no CZ clones. I just got a Jericho 941 that was sold used, but was unfired(The barrel has no marks on it at all) and in perfect condition. The DA trigger isn't bad at all, IMHO, I have a couple of Tanfoglio TA/90's that even after a ton of use, have heavier triggers than the Jericho does. I'm probably going to eventually install reduced power hammer springs on them, but since I shoot those guns better than anything else I own, I don't think I need to hurry.
 
Figure most of the complaints about CZ triggers is a lot like whiners of M&P triggers...it's glockers that have to knock on stuff they don't understand, and hate that they can't control your option to buy other brands.

Simple truth...step up shoot. Are you worried about bench rest and shooting groups? Are you wanting to knock down plates 10-25 yards? Are you concerned with only hitting the 10 ring?

I like my 3, but then again I like hammer guns and I don't get worked up over triggers. I don't compete and never plan to. I have a few pistols I've never even shot at paper, I take them to the range and hit the plates. If I get the results I like there's no need to bother with silly paper. All mine are accurate enough to hit he 100yd gong pretty easily. 15-25 yards at the range they get the job done easily.
 
P99 is DA/SA and actually has a 1/2 lbs lighter trigger in single action than the PPQ. Reset on the PPQ is the same on the P99.

To say the CZ reset is normal is correct. And that's about it.
 
CZ can modify the trigger to suit you or you can have it worked on by a number of custom shops BUT there is no need. It is one of the smoothest triggers right out of the box. Yes the double action trigger has a long pull but it is not heavy nor scratchy. It is smooth and not at all heavy.
 
My experience is limited as they don't fit my hand well, a very disappointing realization, but the ones I have sent a mag through have had reasonable triggers. It just isn't a SAO trigger or a worked over trigger from factory.

The range gun rentals I have pulled the trigger on were much smoother than the NIB ones. It is quite rare that a few thousand trigger pulls doesn't have some positive affect. I would love to hear an explanation as to why it wouldn't work on a CZ.
 
If you want to compare the DA/SA trigger of the CZ (after break-in) to a SIG, the only fair comparison is to compare a decocker CZ model vs. the SIGs. The CZ decocks to the half cock notch on the hammer and that starting point allows a shorter, lighter trigger pull.

Unadjusted/unmodified, the safety-equpped DA trigger pull of a CZ is long, and some people can't make it work.

You CAN start (and carry) any DA/SA safety-equipped CZ from the half-cock notch and do it safely. (That's the normal starting position of the non-Omega decocker models, and those models have only one hammer hook, not the two of safety-equipped models.) You just can't you do that in most of the gun games. All of the newer "B" models are equipped with a firing pin safety and the firing pin will only move if the trigger is pulled fully to the rear.)

As others have noted, there are kits available that allow you to shorten the length of the DA trigger pull and also reduce the reset length. After you've done all of this, the total $$ outlay is still reasonable.

RE: CZ vs BHP:

As WVsig notes, the CZ and the BHP look a bit alike, but that's about the end of it. The CZ is a DA/SA gun, the BHP was never anything but SA and is a less complex (and in some respects an awkward) design. While both use the same basic Browning Short-Recoil Locked-Breech design, so do 90% of other semi-autos. The CZ and the BHP have little else in common.
 
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It is quite rare that a few thousand trigger pulls doesn't have some positive affect. I would love to hear an explanation as to why it wouldn't work on a CZ.
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It probably does have a positive effect. Eventually.
But 2000 clicks and bangs had no perceptible effect on my gun, which happened to be a Sig Sauer.
So how long should we be willing to dryfire and fire a gun to smooth its action by simple wear? I had rather pay the gunsmith than apply long term elbow grease.

Also, can we be assured that use will smooth a particular gun?
It might not only be rough, it might be misfit and never show any benefit from friction. This is quite common in the popular guns made out of plastic and stampings. Bent sheet metal is not very consistent, but milled steel can be out of square, too.
 
Yesterday I took my CZ 75B out to the range and it shot reliably and super accurately with 200 rounds of cheap Fed Champion aluminum case promo ammo. The trigger is not a problem for me whatsoever, the straight beavertail with the edge at the lower tip of the tail put an open sore on the web of my shooting hand though, so next time I have to remember to put some Curad tape on my hand before I shoot this one again!
 
Jim Watson said:
...But 2000 clicks and bangs had no perceptible effect on my gun, which happened to be a Sig Sauer.
So how long should we be willing to dryfire and fire a gun to smooth its action by simple wear? I had rather pay the gunsmith than apply long term elbow grease.
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That's WAY TOO MANY clicks. If it hasn't improved noticeably after several hundred, it's as good as its going to get without gunsmith intervention. You might consider (if you have a well-regarded gunsmith locally) having the gun tuned... or send it back to SIG for a workover.

I don't mind dry-firing, if it is likely to have some effect, but for a number of my guns, bought new, they went to the gunsmith right away.

Some folks like to shoot their gun to smoothness, but I hate shooting a gun with a crappy trigger, and if I have to spend a lot of dollars to pay for the "break-in" ammo, that's adding insult to injury.
 
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Also, can we be assured that use will smooth a particular gun?
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Some designs "break in" better than others. In this case, I've found Sigs typically have a better feeling trigger out of the box than many CZs. I find that SIG will not feel much different after a thousand or so rounds than it does brand new. A CZ, however, gets much better with use. Same as a Ruger revolver. This is my experience with numerous sigs and CZs.
 
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