Hot Load - The Book Can Be Right!

Hmmm, is that anything like a stretcher for a thermocouple?
Click to expand...

I have a primer pocket tightening tool for large and small pockets. It's a bit tedious to use, so I only use it on expensive bolt action match brass. But it's sold by RW Hart.
 
Here's the case heads that have blown out primer pockets . I did not feel that prime go in and thought I missed it so I left in the priming tool and tried again only to find out there was already a primer seated . I can't just tap it out but It's barley held in there

lig0hK.jpg


Here is the light extractor marks I'm talking about that the primer pockets are still good . You can compare to the major brass flow of the other one in the pic .

Yglhxm.jpg


I know these were once fired because the crimp was still there . So what ever firearm was shooting these may have had a problem because only 12% or so are bad . Unclenick and I were talking about this about a year ago and he brought up the possibility that maybe this Lot LC-14 are a little softer then normal allowing the brass to flow easier .
 
I've had this sort of thing happen a number of times in my learning curve of reloading. I suspect to an extent we keep on that learning curve indefinitely - always learning new things - for example within this thread, I never heard of such a thing as being able to tighten up loose primer pockets - cool! Might have to lol into that, federal and ppu make awesomely consistent brass but it's soft and the pockets get loose faster. One of my big lessons learned was just how much seating depth affects pressure. Blew the primers out and froze the bolt shut on a .300 win with loads that were well short of max but seated to touch the lands instead of book coal. A side note, a greatly overpressure .300 magnum really lets you know something's not right as soon as you fire it compared to a .270 or my smaller guns.
 
Roadkill , although I’ve not loaded for those magnum cartridges . I do understand what you mean about feeling it in the gun . I’ve noticed when ever I’ve went over max pressure with 308 loads . My rifles really talks to me when they are overly stressed .
 
Last edited:
I've also found that some of the indicators aren't always accurate or dependable. For example, there wasn't a load I could fire, factory or handload, in that .300, which did not show shiny extractor marks on brass, even with nice rounded primers and appropriate chronographed velocities along with good brass life. Go figure. Have yet to see a spot that shiny on my .270 brass even though I once blew out the primer in that gun too. Goes to show, every rifle is different, you've got to look at more than one indicator and at the end of the day nothing beats a chronograph to tell the truth!
 
Though of course even then, with inappropriately fast burning powder, you can spike pressures over max while falling well short of the velocity potential of a given cartridge
 
As I had all the indicators. Flattening of primers (I have seen worse but there) , mild cratering, sticky bolt and got worse with the next small increment.

Add to that loose primer pockets (and the blown one just fell in and would not re-size)

Downright classic.
 
I've also found that some of the indicators aren't always accurate or dependable
Click to expand...

Not always but I generally look for two unless it's a sticky bolt . A sticky bolt seems to be a good indicator somethings up . It does not have to be over max pressure but there is an issue somewhere . Like what I believe to be my LC-14 cases being a little soft . I'm getting sticky bolts but at charges and velocities that should not be over pressured .

I also did some AR testing with H-335 and 55gr bullets . At 26.5gr I was getting an avg velocity of 3145fps . I had no cratering or flat primer , everything ejected fine but 3145fps from a 16" barrel has to be close to max so that's where I stopped . You really need to look at the whole of the process to determine what may or may not be safe .
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top