Hornady One Shot

Posters speaking positively of One-Shot do not seem to indicate what rifle brass calibers they use it with.
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Good point.
.38 Spl/.357 Mag
Works just fine.

.303 Brit (full length)
Works ok, not spectacular but OK, never had a stuck case.

.308 Win (commercial)
Works most of the time but is on the edge for slickness. Noticeably more "graunchy" than Dillon, MIdway, or home brew.

7.62 Military
Very borderline. I had a case stick (yes I RTFI, it didn't help).

This again is the aerosol in the red can. The pump rubbish in the green bottle, irrecoverably welded a case into the die, even Hornady's hydraulic stuck case extractor tools couldn't remove it. They admitted it was the lube & replaced the die.:cool:
 
Oops, my bad for not posting what I reload using One Shot. 300WSM, 308, 243. Full length sizing. Have not reloaded any 223 yet, but I anticipate no issues there. Pistol calibers I have carbide dies so I don't use lube on them.
 
For rifle, use RCBS Case Lube -2 instead with a roll on pad. Not as expensive as One Shot and lasts for thousands of rounds. Lee makes a good case lube that has worked for me over the years.
 
H-oneshot is some awful junk! It's expensive, and you run out of it loading the night before for that long anticipated match.

Any loading block used will end up with a white coating that grows thicker each time you spray cases. Also, cases that are held in a hole result in the most important part of the casing NOT getting any lube on it,,--the extreme bottom of the case! This is where the case will stick causing the next question,,__how do I get a stuck case out of my FL die?? After the rim is ripped off the edge of the case.
 
Posters speaking positively of One-Shot do not seem to indicate what rifle brass calibers they use it with.
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I use it on all my rifle brass, and full length size them all. At the moment, that includes: 223/5.56, 308, 243, 30-06, 30-30, and 6.5 CM.

Lay em out of a paper towel and spray em down, wait a couple minutes (use the time to get the dies in the press) and then go for it. Works like a charm.
 
There may have been a reference or two throughout this thread relative to lube dents while using the roll-on lubing process. There is an easy way to avoid the lube dents, especially convenient if using single stage loading and all sizing is completed before going on to the next operation. If right handed, you are probably using the right hand to operate the loading press. Now, to give the left hand something to do, grab onto a shop rag or Handi-wipe. Roll out several cases on the lube pad as usual and upon picking up a lubed case, use the shop rag or Handi to wipe off the upper third or so of the case, to include the neck and shoulder (it is not really necessary that those areas of the case actually be lubed, just the lower section). Now resize the case and lack of lubricant in the upper section of the case will/should prevent lube from creeping up and forming lube dents. Withdraw the sized case and wipe the lubricant from the rest of the case.
 
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No problem for me either. I do use Imperial lube for small batches though. I lay cases down side by side on a cookie sheet. Spray the cases, hand roll 180 and spray again. I then make a slow pass up close to the case mouth to get some lube in there.
I let it sit long enough to dig out the dies and set up the press.
 
I like HOS, just spray in a Baggie & drop in the brass and roll around for a few seconds. Let dry for approx 5 mins and ready to load in my 550b. And yes, yet to ever have a stuck case but with my press that's not a problem should it "ever" happen. Have some Dillon spray a swell, but have yet to give it a try.
 
Used it for five years- and the only time I've had issues is when I didn't use it correctly.

I didn't see where anyone mentioned being sure to angle the can (per the directions) to be sure you're getting lube INTO the case necks. If you don't, you're guaranteed a stuck expander ball. The spray is inert, and doesn't affect the powder.
 
okay, maybe I use it incorrectly. but the lyman aerosol lube works great regardless of my inability to follow directions, and it's a buck cheaper.
 
H-oneshot is some awful junk! It's expensive, and you run out of it loading the night before for that long anticipated match.

Any loading block used will end up with a white coating that grows thicker each time you spray cases. Also, cases that are held in a hole result in the most important part of the casing NOT getting any lube on it,,--the extreme bottom of the case! This is where the case will stick causing the next question,,__how do I get a stuck case out of my FL die?? After the rim is ripped off the edge of the case.
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Sounds like you know there is a problem with your procedure, but continue to use the same procedure.

A cookie sheet should be a mandatory tool in every reloading room to lube brass on. Spray, roll around a bit, wait to dry.
 
A cookie sheet should be a mandatory tool in every reloading room to lube brass on. Spray, roll around a bit, wait to dry.
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That's what I do.
With all the spray lubes I've tried, including the lanolin/alcohol home brew, one side spray is enough. Its thin enough it runs down before evaporating the alcohol.

With the One-Shot its spray, wait, flip, spray again, wait some more to get good results.:(
 
Yep. I use the cookie sheet for my rifle brass - spray, shake the sheet a bit to roll the brass around, then work on setting up the press, filling primer tubes, whatever.

With One Shot, I spray on my pistol cases that I have carbide dies for. I know it's not required, but i dislike not using lube - so a gallon sized Ziploc bag, a few handfulls of brass, a quick shot or to, shake the bag a bit, open and let dry while I'm setting up dies or filling primer tubes.

I'm glad others have had luck on rifle cases with One Shot, I simply have not had such luck. Following directions, spraying more than once - none of it made a difference. Too much resistance and I've had a stuck case or two with it, so it is relegated to pistol brass, press cleaning and lube, dry lubing some of my various firearms, etc. Works great for those applications.
 
Sounds like you know there is a problem with your procedure, but continue to use the same procedure.
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Nope. One failure was enough! The remainder of the can went on a back shelf to never be used again. I only used it in the first place because I was working in a gunshop where we were factory direct with Hornady, the boss gave me the can to try out. I told him what I found. He kept selling it because some customers requested it. I had the pleasure of removing a bunch of stuck cases when they used,,--missused it. He would do that for nothing, then hand the customer a can of Hornady unique case lube,(which is the same stuff as Imperial.)
 
IMO , It's just OK at best and I use it quite a bit . I never use it on cases bigger then 223 . I've sized 308 and 270 cases with it as directed . It works but there really is no room for error . Although I have never had a stuck case using oneshot . That does not in any way mean it works great . The ONLY reason I've never had a stuck case is two fold . 1) I can tell when the larger case is about to get stuck and I stop . 2) Because I've had to do #1 more then a couple times I only size smaller cases with Oneshot . That seems to work for me .

Now I only use a single stage press so I tend not to need 100+ cases lubed at once before I start . If I were using a progressive press I'm sure applying sizing wax by hand to each case like I do now for most of my sizing would not be an option . I only use One shot when sizing cases for my AR plinking loads . I put 50 in a tray and spary away because it's just more convenient not because I like the lube .

I do agree with who ever said you get fewer sized for more money then it's worth . I'm not sure what's the most cases I've reloaded using Oneshot but I'd say it is less then 1k per can . I'm just about finished with a 4oz tub of unique sizing wax . I've sized at least 2500 cases with that tube for a few dollars less in price and can't remember once almost getting a case stuck .
 
For someone loading a few dozen rounds for himself, the time-consuming (and more precise) options are viable- like hand lubing rounds on a pad.
For others like myself, doing 100 rounds ea. (rifle) x 3 for a trip to the range, compromise is the word of the day.
I "settle" for the +/- tenth of a grain accuracy of the powder drop. Taking minutes for every case to carefully trickle-up to the precise weight would be nice- but who's got that kind of time...
So for me, it's 50 at a clip into the case block, and spray...
 
Tobnpr:

But the issue with those who have reported bad results with One-Shot, and we have followed the instructions, is the matter of stuck cases or eventual stuck cases if continuing trying to use it. As a result we have almost full cans that we are very willing to give away. I used it marginally OK with some '06 cases but one attempt with a belted case was all it took to give it up as a lost cause. It seems that those using it successfully are doing so with lighter cases. But I certainly agree that using a powder measure to throw charges, rather than weighing each charge, is the most practical and efficient and close enough to being just as accurate as the scale as the way to go. The only good use for a powder scale is to set the powder measure (that remark should generate some feedback).
 
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It works great for me. Spray the inside of the case mouths. No problems.

It really works great on rifle rounds in dies with no lube ports. Doesn't dimple the shoulder like paste lube will if you get too much on it.

I'm sorry men but, if you read and follow the directions it'll work great for you too. I'm not special. God Bless
 
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