Hopkin & Allen Help!!
- Thread starter wick73
- Start date
OK, the trigger return spring is in the front of the trigger. One end is trapped between the frame and the trigger guard with a hole for that screw to go through. One of those springs can be easily made or an Iver Johnson spring from Wolff can be modified.
The part you circled, that looks something like Cinderella's slipper, is the single action sear. When the hammer is pulled part way back, it engages with the safety notch; when the hammer is back all the way, it engages with a notch you can barely see at the bottom rear of the hammer. The other piece that extends down into the grip is the spring for the SA sear. If it is missing or broken the SA sear won't work and the gun will be DA only.
The SA sear is disengaged by the trigger contacting the "toe" of the "slipper", pushng it up and tilting the rear down to disengage from the hammer.
The spring can probably be made fairly easily; the SA sear itself would be very tricky to make and probably cost more than the gun is worth.
Jim
The part you circled, that looks something like Cinderella's slipper, is the single action sear. When the hammer is pulled part way back, it engages with the safety notch; when the hammer is back all the way, it engages with a notch you can barely see at the bottom rear of the hammer. The other piece that extends down into the grip is the spring for the SA sear. If it is missing or broken the SA sear won't work and the gun will be DA only.
The SA sear is disengaged by the trigger contacting the "toe" of the "slipper", pushng it up and tilting the rear down to disengage from the hammer.
The spring can probably be made fairly easily; the SA sear itself would be very tricky to make and probably cost more than the gun is worth.
Jim
Parts Issue
You:
(OK, the trigger return spring is in the front of the trigger. One end is trapped between the frame and the trigger guard with a hole for that screw to go through. One of those springs can be easily made or an Iver Johnson spring
from Wolff can be modified.)
Me:
My pistol has no such part in the trigger area only pins and the only screws are going though the hammer assembly and on though the barrel pivot. The trigger housing is different and the trigger group is a different configuration. I can get a better pic. of the trigger area and post it.
You:
The part you circled, that looks something like Cinderella's slipper, is the single action sear. When the hammer is pulled part way back, it engages with the safety notch; when the hammer is back all the way, it engages with a notch you can barely see at the bottom rear of the hammer. (which is there) The other piece that extends down into the grip is the spring for the SA sear. If it is missing or broken the SA sear won't work and the gun will be DA only.
The spring can probably be made fairly easily.
Me: If i could get the Spring for the Sa sear I could repair the frame I'm very sure.
I wanted to copy and paste so I could refer to your reply. I know I am missing the spring for the SA sear. It is keeping the full return action flawed. Like is stated in the post original It works fine if I help the trigger forward just with a little. Can you hook up with someone that might have the Sa sear spring? I have a full shop at my disposal so I can modify or repair anything as long as I have something to go by.
You:
(OK, the trigger return spring is in the front of the trigger. One end is trapped between the frame and the trigger guard with a hole for that screw to go through. One of those springs can be easily made or an Iver Johnson spring
from Wolff can be modified.)
Me:
My pistol has no such part in the trigger area only pins and the only screws are going though the hammer assembly and on though the barrel pivot. The trigger housing is different and the trigger group is a different configuration. I can get a better pic. of the trigger area and post it.
You:
The part you circled, that looks something like Cinderella's slipper, is the single action sear. When the hammer is pulled part way back, it engages with the safety notch; when the hammer is back all the way, it engages with a notch you can barely see at the bottom rear of the hammer. (which is there) The other piece that extends down into the grip is the spring for the SA sear. If it is missing or broken the SA sear won't work and the gun will be DA only.
The spring can probably be made fairly easily.
Me: If i could get the Spring for the Sa sear I could repair the frame I'm very sure.
I wanted to copy and paste so I could refer to your reply. I know I am missing the spring for the SA sear. It is keeping the full return action flawed. Like is stated in the post original It works fine if I help the trigger forward just with a little. Can you hook up with someone that might have the Sa sear spring? I have a full shop at my disposal so I can modify or repair anything as long as I have something to go by.
Last edited:
Sorry, I can see now that the gun in the diagram (Post #22) is not the same as the gun in the original photo. Like many companies, H&A made various models, some of which were quite different from each other. My comments were based on the #22 revolver; the original one may be quite different internally.
Jim
Jim
All I can find is that those guns were called "automatic top break revolvers" meaning automatic ejection of fired and unfired cartridges when the gun is opened. There was a hammerless (concealed hammer) verson and some of the hammer guns were made with H&A's folding spur.
Jim
Jim
It may work that way, but it isn't supposed to. The button does release the cylinder so it can be removed for cleaning, but in normal use when the gun is opened a cam should push up on the ejector rod and eject the cases without removing the cylinder. If that doesn't happen, other parts may be missing or broken.
Jim
Jim
Ejector
This gun does not have the auto ejector cam with the little triangular steel spring. I had a auto eject cam assembly thinking it was proper for this model. But the thickness of the auto ejector cam was much thinner and did not engage or eject when installed. The auto ejector cam as you know has a small lip the contacts the trigger guard to cycle the ejection. It simple would not work. I have shown it to a local gun shop guy that has as also dealt with these old firearms and he said the very early models had no auto eject cam assembly. You had to remove the cylinder and push the ejector rod, that's way the quick release was there. He then wanted to buy it and tried very hard to get it from me. I not sure about any of it as I an a novice in this area. I would still like you to get hands on it.
This gun does not have the auto ejector cam with the little triangular steel spring. I had a auto eject cam assembly thinking it was proper for this model. But the thickness of the auto ejector cam was much thinner and did not engage or eject when installed. The auto ejector cam as you know has a small lip the contacts the trigger guard to cycle the ejection. It simple would not work. I have shown it to a local gun shop guy that has as also dealt with these old firearms and he said the very early models had no auto eject cam assembly. You had to remove the cylinder and push the ejector rod, that's way the quick release was there. He then wanted to buy it and tried very hard to get it from me. I not sure about any of it as I an a novice in this area. I would still like you to get hands on it.
