Holsters - "safety straps" - your thoughts please . . .

I'm sure I'll be the odd one out for preferring a holster with a flap when I'm in the woods. I actually find the style with the American-style wire hanger used with a regular web pistol belt to be the most comfortable and out-of-the way for those limited circumstances. However, it is by no means a speed rig.

I used to think that about thumb-snap holsters until I got a good one (which went with the gun when I traded for a newer model). I frankly can't imagine using a holster that claims to hold the gun in place with friction. I'm sure I would think it would result in a difficult draw. But on the other hand, you can't have it both ways. One thing I'm sure of, however, is I don't want leather that will turn brass green in two days.
 
My leather holsters have either a thumbreak or safety strap on them. My field holsters have the safety strap because speed is not all that much of a concern. My concealment holsters and the majority of my old duty holsters have the thumb break. I do have an old style swivel holster that has the safety strap. I prefer some sort of strap or thumb break on leather holsters. If I carry my Colt Series 70 MK IV in a cocked and locked position I will absolutely have a thumb break holster. I know that the Colt was designed to be carried this way and that many holsters were designed for it but while I have become acustomed to carrying it this way I still have a healthy distrust of the mechanical safety. I do have a few no strap or thumb break holsters they are for pistols that don't require to be carried cocked in order to be "combat" ready. My duty holster for my Beretta 92 series is a Level II Blackhawk duty holster. It gives good retention and speed at the same time.
 
When I was a kid, my cap gun holsters had little leather loops to hold the hammer.
I enjoyed that special feature, made it stay in place...and looked like the ones on Bonanza! :)

My duty holster had a thumb-break. I love 'em.

I've got a Serpa for my Glock 20-SF...I'm fond of it, as I do believe its the best retention system out there.
But I've not quite got the push-draw to be as fast as my other old-fashioned holsters.
Then again, I've only had the pistol for two months...takes time to get fast on things.
 
Probbaly a good idea if you plan on getting into hand to hand action with folks who mean you harm.

Not needed so much for CCP folks.
 
Probbaly a good idea if you plan on getting into hand to hand action with folks who mean you harm.

Not needed so much for CCP folks.
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No way I'll ever go hand-to-hand with anyone while carrying a gun...or even a knife...and I'm always carrying a gun and at least a couple of knives.

Too much chance they'll find it and get it away from you.

Daryl
 
No way I'll ever go hand-to-hand with anyone while carrying a gun...or even a knife...and I'm always carrying a gun and at least a couple of knives.
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You don't always have a choice about that. If someone attacks you without a weapon you cant pull that knife you carry or your gun. You are left with the choices to fight back or flee. I live in Massachusetts and the old stereotype of Bostonians liking to fight is very true and not exaggerated. Even if you don't go looking for trouble and do everything to avoid conflict, it will find you one way or another eventually. I have to exercise a lot of self control when carrying as in the past couple years alone I have had to talk my way out or when worse comes to worst fight my way out of a handful of confrontations. None of which I initiated by the way, all it takes is to talk to the wrong guys girlfriend or look at them the wrong way. In no way would I be in the right to draw my firearm in self defense over fists being thrown, which is why I lift weights and exercise to keep myself fit in case I need to hold my own. I myself do not use a retention strap, but I do see how useful it could be in scuffles. Hand to hand confrontation is a very real possibility whether you try to avoid it or not.
 
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DPris....good well thought out points...desert Border Patrol vs. city officer...some that you brought up, I'd not considered before...I've not felt the need for a strap or thong...but as you point out (and I'm not on the Job), I don't need to bail out of a squad car, fist fight, or detain prisoners...when I carry, I'm skylarking on our farm, woodsloafing, or rarely, out on the town with my better half. In the last of those cases, defensive carry is the rule and my only goal is to allow us to safely exit the area...we're not LEO's and have no business "cleaning up the trash" as it were. For the previous purposes, (here on the farm), loss of the gun is just not an issue...my holsters are all tight fitted.

None of the previous comments, sir, should be construed as having less than my (and my family's) utmost respect for the work you LEO's do...you're our hero's sir...

With respect and thanks....Rod
 
You don't always have a choice about that. If someone attacks you without a weapon you cant pull that knife you carry or your gun. You are left with the choices to fight back or flee.
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Not true at all. Arizona law says that deadly force is justified if a reasonable person would be in fear of his/her life or of serious bodily injury...or to stop a serious felony in progress.

People are killed and seriously injured by folks without weapons pretty regularly these days. I'm disabled to some degree, and wouldn't stand much chance in a fight. And my running days ended with a mule wreck some 10 years ago. I can walk fine, but can't run more than a few steps, and not all that fast. I don't think a fast walk is going to give me much distance in such an encounter.

If someone attacks me, they intend to do me serious bodily harm. Lets face it, if they attack me, they have an advantage of size or some such, or they'd leave me alone. I have no obligation to match fists with fists, especially with the physical limitations I have.

I live a pretty peaceful life, but if someone decides to attack me, they don't leave me a lot of choice.

Daryl
 
Rod,
Thanks.
A regular ordinary everyday citizen has no mandate to resolve a situation as the police do, a citizen only has to survive it.

I just decided after my gun jumped its holster that one day on the job years ago that retention is an absolute priority for me, and that means a strap. :)
On that occasion, I realized it had happened as soon as it did, and recovered my dinged-up Smith 64 (which I still have 25 years later, still showing the dings as a reminder). Scratched up the cylinder & muzzle, busted the front sight blade pin & knocked the blade halfway out of its groove in the barrel.

Had I not realized it, things could have gotten ugly in several different ways running from me ending up dead with an empty holster, suspension for losing city property, or a lawsuit if a child in the neighborhood found the gun & injured somebody with it.

Another consideration for me today in concealed carry around town or open carry in the boonies is value.
It'd cost me a minimum of $1800 to replace my regular carry Colt 1911 as it sits. The custom Ruger GP44 bear gun would be at least $2000. $1500 for a custom Ruger GP .357.
Totally aside from possibly not having the gun when I need it, I don't want to lose anything I've put that kinda money into. :)
Not to mention the long wait time involved in the custom work to get an exact replacement.

It's another one of those individual decisions, based on experience & comfort zones.

Like I said- If you don't like straps, make VERY sure you've got a tight fit between gun & holster. :)
Denis
 
When I'm on duty, I use a Safariland Model 6360 Level III holster. It's secure, it's fast and makes snatching the pistol almost impossible.

If I ever go back to a plainclothes assignment, I'll be using either a Blackhawk Serpa or a Safariland Model 328. Both of those lock the gun in securely.

When I'm woods-cruising with my wheelguns, I'll be wearing one of several Uncle Mike's Sidekick holsters.

If I'm sitting around the house, I'm wearing jeans with a J-Frame in my pocket. I don't use a holster at all in that situation.
 
I thank you all for your posts and replies - it has been very informative and helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

I've made a lot of holsters and wet mold them to the pistol - but most have been for SA revolvers - BP such as '51, '61 Colt Navies, New Vaquero, etc. and vintage DA revolvers such as Colt Army Special, S & W M & P. The holsters I make secure the pistol well - the safety strap issue is just one of "my things". The only semi-auto I own is a Ruger SR9 and the holster for that which I made holds is tightly as well.

I had purchased a used Bersa .380 Thunder CC with the intention of carrying that for CC. I liked the thought of the first shot being DA and then going to where all you had to do was pull the trigger - I didn't like it. After the first shot (DA) the trigger became much too sensitive for me and I actually touched off an unintended second shot down range.

I'm pretty much a revolver guy so I started looking at what was available and finally settled on a Ruger 357 LCR. For me, it fit the bill. It's my first "snubbie" and I have to say that I really like it. However, being a leatherworker, I have been looking at it and toying with different ideas of what would be the best carry holster design for me. Looking at it in that way, the outside profile of the pistol does not really lend itself well to a safety strap due to it not having an exposed hammer.

For my own use, I make my holsters so that they are canted forward for right side belt carry. In holding the LCR up it appears that I can easily make a pattern for the holster which will allow the cant and also allow for a safety strap if I want one. If the holster is wet molded well, it probably would not require one.

rodfac - as a holster maker you've given some excellent pointers and ideas - much appreciated. I was in the habit of making my holsters out of about 12 oz tooling leather (approx. 1/8 thickness). Last year, I was able to hand select a hide that was heavier and pretty consistent in thickness all over. I will probably try one with that - I will also plan to incorporate a welt which I don't normally do. I'm sure that after I fit the pattern I'll be making several to try different things. As a sidenote to that - I usually use an antique saddle tan water based dye and after the holster is wet molded, it retains the stiffness needed. Last year, I experimented with "vinegaroon" (vinegar with dissolved iron in it) which gives a nice deep black. I made a holster for a Super Bearcat and after I wet molded it, it was like it was custom cast to the pistol - a nice snug fit and held the pistol tightly which requires just a slight tug to release. I'm not sure how the vinegaroon dye will affedt the thicker skirting leather I have but hopefully it will dry it enough to be rigid and secure the Ruger LCR like it did on the one for the Bearcat. Following wet forming and drying, I usually follow up with several coats of pure virgin olive oil and then paste wax. It seems to put enough "life" into the leather but doesn't soften it.

When I get the holster done, or holsters, I'll post photos of them so you can see what I came up with. Thank you all again for your kind responses and input - it's greatly appreciated!

To the LEOs, both past and active, thank you for your input and please know the respect we all have for you and the danger and difficulties your jobs entails in your service to the public! :)
 
The best on the belt holster for a LCR is Double Triple brand basic ambidextrous belt holster for 2" revolver. It is stiff black nylon with a velcro strap. This strap is adjusted to fit over the hammer area ( hidden on a LCR ) and not removed to draw. Once used a bit and adjusted, the gun can be pulled out and reholstered without removing the strap. The gun does not fall out even when rolling around under a car or under the tractor. Also it is $ 10 and well made.

I wear it on my left 11:00 with the butt facing forward, this allows me to get at the gun with either hand.

Perhaps making a copy in leather would work.
 
1. I own an original Bill Jordon "River Holster & Belt", made by Don Hume when he was in La Mesa, CA. The holster has a 2nd male snap on the back, down by the muzzle. Jordon said the strap should be snapped to the back of the holster, unless the officer felt he would be chasing someone.
This may account for the old time Border Patrol Agents wrapping a turn of reflective tape around the grips of their M19's, so they could find them after they fell out.

2. I have been carrying concealed since 1968, as a civilian, Federal Agent, and civilian again after I retired. A proper holster does NOT need a strap. If I felt I needed one, it was always the thumb break type. Modern boned or synthetic holsters do not need a strap, and the only time I dropped a gun was from a cheap upside down shoulder rig, when I had to jump off a loading dock. It cured me of cheap holsters.

But the only times I carry openly are at competitions, or when riding my horses.

Bruce Nelson, my late best friend, agreed. He only put straps on if the client demanded it.
 
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As a Deputy Sheriff working alone with back-up far away, my main concern was weapon retention. I looked at all the options, and ordered a Tex Shoemaker semi break front security holster. You hit the thumb break, then rocked the revolver forward, and up and out. At the time (around 1994) this was as good as it got in my opinion.

Today I am retired. I shoot pistol matches with multiple handguns, and I also concealed carry multiple handguns. I carry while bumming around in the woods, and at the creek.

My last 3 holster purchases have been Pancake holsters that are detail boned, with inner hammer shields. I will be ordering 2 more for myself in the next week, and they will be of the same design. For CCW carry I do not want or need a thumb break. I am also shooting matches with the same holster I conceal carry.

I also have 3 Bianchi #5 holsters with thumb break retention, and an old Bianchi Pancake with thumb break that is no longer made. I carry using these holsters when I am brushhogging, mowing, clearing trails etc. Situations where I want a little more security, and also do not want to scuff up a new custom holster.

Retention holsters have a place, as do ones without a thong, strap, or thumb break. It just depends on what you are doing.

Bob
 
The thing that I don't like about straps is the possibility of a strap going in the trigger guard on reholstering. It could very easily cause an AD as you push the gun down in the holster. My carry guns do not have safeties.
 
I like retention holsters most of the holsters i have are retention holsters. The SERPA is the one i use the most for open carrie around the farm, but i really do like hosters with a thumb-break to, i carrie those from time to time to.
 
For my orginal 1911 I carry a Roys Pancake holster manufactured in Magnolia AR. It has a thumb break and after some 26 years of service it is still effective. Given my frame I have no problem concealing it.

I also carry a DeSantis SA. It allows me to carry my Officers model up to my target Springfield arms Factory comp. It has good retention and a minimal print.

Roy, we called him Pappy, ran a leather shop in Camden AR for many years. I carried a TZ75 after my department went to 9mm. The hook tang made it impossible to get a good duty holster. Pappy modified a holster, I found in a bargain box with a thumb break. This holster still serves me well.

I have expermented with many synthitic holsters and find I prefer leather.
 
A properly boned holster does not require a strap...
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I concur. I have no use for straps (thumb break). I generally carry a 1911 Gov. model in a OWB holster even when riding the M/C and to date have not lost the gun.
 
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