Old Dragoon
New member
MEC, RK, & SG,
Let me add this to MEC's last line; ...And use what works for us.
Let me add this to MEC's last line; ...And use what works for us.
Help with misfiring 1860 colt replica
- Thread starter ren219
- Start date
Smokin_Gun
New member
Howdy Dragoon
Agreed...and that's all I was sharing what works for me...and countless other that I do know.
Agreed...and that's all I was sharing what works for me...and countless other that I do know.
capping
Well, In my humble opinion I'd have to say that there is a lot of good info here. Some differs from the other. Who gives the "best "advice? Me. ha ha ha I say read it all and make up your own mind and that's good advice right? I can't see where anyone asked about the personality traits of the other repliers though and find it a squib-load of common courtesy for one poster (Remington Kid) to remark on the personality of the other poster(Smokin-Gun).I don't like reading that kind of crap especially when there doesn't seem to be much difference between the general concensus of one guys post compared to the other. I better not say what my opinion about caps and all is for fear I may sound like a know it all. Well.... on second thought I'll state my opinion anyhow. Please forgive my attitude if I sound like a know it all. My opinion about the cap thing is that the cap should fit the nipple and slide on snug and seated all the way for the cap ignition compound to be resting on the nipple. That takes more doing than some care to do or know how to do if none of the various cap sizes that are tried will seat snug and fully. That's the first thing to do. Try every cap available to see if it's possible to find one size or brand that fits well. If that can't happen then it is "crimping" time with whatever cap fits fully seated or "chamfering time" for those that are mechanically inclined or have a qualified gun-smith to do the job for them. Trouble is that many gunsmiths are unfamiliar with cap&baller. The person taking work to some gunsmiths may have to know how to explain what it is they want done exactly. That is where Remington Kid (brought out the chamfering idea) could be helpful by explaining what that proceedure is exactly. Well, I would consider myself a gunsmith of sorts that has been "doin it for years" (ha ha ha ) and know people a little. Some just want the info that can most easily get them out there shooting and not working on or taking the gun to a gunsmith. Not everyone has a buddy like Old Dragoon or Remington Kid or Smokin Gun that can be experienced enough to just do it for them for the cost of a cheap six pack. ha ha That is where the info that is posted here can help a fellow new to the cap&baller game. I mean that both sides of the coin seem to have been explained and the reader can make his or her own desision as to what needs to be done for them and their gun to get them up and shooting safely. Personally I'd have to say that although I am qualified to chamfer nipples I don't always do it. I find myself pinching caps or finding a different brand of cap that fits better more often than I do the chamfering thing. Most people would follow suit I'd guess since chamfering nipples is not really as simple as it sounds. " Easier said than done", right Remington _Gunsmith_Kid ? I do hammer seat my caps on the nipples though since that seems to be the most convienient way since the hammer is right there anyhow. Hammer seating is not allowed at CASS matches though so learning to use a dowell rod is a good idea too. I think more could be explained in the chamfering, mushrooming, hammer face angle ect. than was done.
See yas pards!
Well, In my humble opinion I'd have to say that there is a lot of good info here. Some differs from the other. Who gives the "best "advice? Me. ha ha ha I say read it all and make up your own mind and that's good advice right? I can't see where anyone asked about the personality traits of the other repliers though and find it a squib-load of common courtesy for one poster (Remington Kid) to remark on the personality of the other poster(Smokin-Gun).I don't like reading that kind of crap especially when there doesn't seem to be much difference between the general concensus of one guys post compared to the other. I better not say what my opinion about caps and all is for fear I may sound like a know it all. Well.... on second thought I'll state my opinion anyhow. Please forgive my attitude if I sound like a know it all. My opinion about the cap thing is that the cap should fit the nipple and slide on snug and seated all the way for the cap ignition compound to be resting on the nipple. That takes more doing than some care to do or know how to do if none of the various cap sizes that are tried will seat snug and fully. That's the first thing to do. Try every cap available to see if it's possible to find one size or brand that fits well. If that can't happen then it is "crimping" time with whatever cap fits fully seated or "chamfering time" for those that are mechanically inclined or have a qualified gun-smith to do the job for them. Trouble is that many gunsmiths are unfamiliar with cap&baller. The person taking work to some gunsmiths may have to know how to explain what it is they want done exactly. That is where Remington Kid (brought out the chamfering idea) could be helpful by explaining what that proceedure is exactly. Well, I would consider myself a gunsmith of sorts that has been "doin it for years" (ha ha ha ) and know people a little. Some just want the info that can most easily get them out there shooting and not working on or taking the gun to a gunsmith. Not everyone has a buddy like Old Dragoon or Remington Kid or Smokin Gun that can be experienced enough to just do it for them for the cost of a cheap six pack. ha ha That is where the info that is posted here can help a fellow new to the cap&baller game. I mean that both sides of the coin seem to have been explained and the reader can make his or her own desision as to what needs to be done for them and their gun to get them up and shooting safely. Personally I'd have to say that although I am qualified to chamfer nipples I don't always do it. I find myself pinching caps or finding a different brand of cap that fits better more often than I do the chamfering thing. Most people would follow suit I'd guess since chamfering nipples is not really as simple as it sounds. " Easier said than done", right Remington _Gunsmith_Kid ? I do hammer seat my caps on the nipples though since that seems to be the most convienient way since the hammer is right there anyhow. Hammer seating is not allowed at CASS matches though so learning to use a dowell rod is a good idea too. I think more could be explained in the chamfering, mushrooming, hammer face angle ect. than was done.
See yas pards!Jbar4Ranch
New member
My Uberti Walker clone uses #11 caps and will absolutely not go bang all six times with CCI caps, but Remingtons it's been 100%.
Old Dragoon,
Way up where you say you can't get # 10 Rems, all my local Gander Mountain stocks right now are 10's. Bought the last 300 11's for my Colt Repros.
Gotta pinch for the Rem(s), will have to go get some 10's. 3.79 per 100. Too damned much when you can buy Large Pistol for a buck 60. Cabela's, they are 3.29, at the store, but 39 something per thou on line.
I think they oughta fit, too, and if you gotta file or sand the nipples to make them fit snug enough to be easy to seat and not fall off, that is the way to go.
I would prefer to make a mandrel with the right thread to screw the nipple into than to chuck the threads into ANY drill chuck. If you tighten enough to keep it from slipping, you might make flats on the threads. If too loose, might spin and wipe the crests of the threads down. Either one might bind in the cylinder, going in and, mebbe, not coming back out.
Cheers,
George
I don't know where the hammer/face angle comes in with BP pistols.
A Rem has angled nipples, so the hammer face is at an angle. The Colt replicas have the nipples set parallel to the bore, so the hammer face is perpendicular to that, ie. straight up and down, square to the chambers. Why you would change any angle of either, I cannot see. Why you would file or grind down any of the HAMMERS to fit a nipple, I cannot see.
Way up where you say you can't get # 10 Rems, all my local Gander Mountain stocks right now are 10's. Bought the last 300 11's for my Colt Repros.
Gotta pinch for the Rem(s), will have to go get some 10's. 3.79 per 100. Too damned much when you can buy Large Pistol for a buck 60. Cabela's, they are 3.29, at the store, but 39 something per thou on line.
I think they oughta fit, too, and if you gotta file or sand the nipples to make them fit snug enough to be easy to seat and not fall off, that is the way to go.
I would prefer to make a mandrel with the right thread to screw the nipple into than to chuck the threads into ANY drill chuck. If you tighten enough to keep it from slipping, you might make flats on the threads. If too loose, might spin and wipe the crests of the threads down. Either one might bind in the cylinder, going in and, mebbe, not coming back out.
Cheers,
George
I don't know where the hammer/face angle comes in with BP pistols.
A Rem has angled nipples, so the hammer face is at an angle. The Colt replicas have the nipples set parallel to the bore, so the hammer face is perpendicular to that, ie. straight up and down, square to the chambers. Why you would change any angle of either, I cannot see. Why you would file or grind down any of the HAMMERS to fit a nipple, I cannot see.
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caps ect.
You explained it at the end G, when you explained how the Rem hammer is and the Colt hammer is in relation to the nipple. All guns are not that way with quality control and all. Some hammer faces are off and only hit a fraction of the circular tip on the cone of the nipple. That can set the cap off but sometimes not consistantly and... the hammer hitting only a small part of the cone usually hammers it down eventually and makes the top of the nipples cone "not perpendicular" with the axis of the nipple. That means the cap hits the high part of the nipple cone and stops short of being fully seated since the cap goes on the nipple straight but the top of the cone is at an angle. If the top of the nipples cone is at an angle and the cap goes on straight then underneath the cap the cone is touching only a small part of the cap. I could draw it easier than say it and I hope you can see what I'm saying. Putting some color on the hammer face and letting the hammer down on the cone of the nipple can show where the color is on the cone is where the hammer hits it. Partial coverage means a partial contact of the hammer to the nipple cone. The color put on the hammer face has to be thin stuff and have no real thickness or height to it. Prussian Blue machinists die is a good thing to use. Hey, explaining the mandrel to screw a nipple into so it can be chamfered is a good thing to let people in on. That would be something difficult for the average kitchen table gunsmith to do without a lathe though. I think a piece of thin leather could be wrapped around the nipple to protect it. What do you think about that? Sometimes a nipples cone can be stoned down(careful to keep the top of the cone perpendicular with the axis of the nipple) to get a loose cap size to fit snug because the cone is tapered widder as it goes toward the threads. Before stoning the cone down it has to be determined that there is extra reach of the hammers face to hit a shortened nipple. I've found over the years that a new set of nipples can help because nipples vary and if one nipple can't find a cap size to fit then another nipple may. People seem to have good things to say about Treso alloy nipples. The gold ones.
You explained it at the end G, when you explained how the Rem hammer is and the Colt hammer is in relation to the nipple. All guns are not that way with quality control and all. Some hammer faces are off and only hit a fraction of the circular tip on the cone of the nipple. That can set the cap off but sometimes not consistantly and... the hammer hitting only a small part of the cone usually hammers it down eventually and makes the top of the nipples cone "not perpendicular" with the axis of the nipple. That means the cap hits the high part of the nipple cone and stops short of being fully seated since the cap goes on the nipple straight but the top of the cone is at an angle. If the top of the nipples cone is at an angle and the cap goes on straight then underneath the cap the cone is touching only a small part of the cap. I could draw it easier than say it and I hope you can see what I'm saying. Putting some color on the hammer face and letting the hammer down on the cone of the nipple can show where the color is on the cone is where the hammer hits it. Partial coverage means a partial contact of the hammer to the nipple cone. The color put on the hammer face has to be thin stuff and have no real thickness or height to it. Prussian Blue machinists die is a good thing to use. Hey, explaining the mandrel to screw a nipple into so it can be chamfered is a good thing to let people in on. That would be something difficult for the average kitchen table gunsmith to do without a lathe though. I think a piece of thin leather could be wrapped around the nipple to protect it. What do you think about that? Sometimes a nipples cone can be stoned down(careful to keep the top of the cone perpendicular with the axis of the nipple) to get a loose cap size to fit snug because the cone is tapered widder as it goes toward the threads. Before stoning the cone down it has to be determined that there is extra reach of the hammers face to hit a shortened nipple. I've found over the years that a new set of nipples can help because nipples vary and if one nipple can't find a cap size to fit then another nipple may. People seem to have good things to say about Treso alloy nipples. The gold ones.
Wayne,
If I have all the taps needed, ( I know I don't have all the metrics ), I'd make 'em to demand and ship 'em for like 2 bucks to cover shipping, sized to fit a 3/8 drill on the shank end, mebbe even 1/4.
Yeah, I can see where it IS possible for the hammer to not hit square. AND to ding the nipple so it is parallel to the hammer face. That would be good, in a way. Now the hammer hits it square. But, we do pull them to wash the gun, don't we, and we don't number them to go in the same chamber. That means that the nipple that is flat to the hammer last shoot might be in the next chamber, next shoot, and the "point" is in the wrong place.
I gotta see if there is anywhere to find the inside diameter of the different brands of caps. Regardless of the post above about manufacturing tolerances, I think the little copper cups are formed within a thou, for that brand. Not gonna buy Rem 11's with 5 thou diff from tin to tin. Rem to CCI, mebbe 5 or 10 thou difference, brand to brand, same "size".
I mentioned that the CCI 11's are a b****h to seat on my '60, and Rems slip on and grip real well. So, CCI IS smaller, mebbe even thicker copper. Both fall off my Pietta Rem, 'less you squeeze them, and hard.
Ah, well.
Cheers,
George
If I have all the taps needed, ( I know I don't have all the metrics ), I'd make 'em to demand and ship 'em for like 2 bucks to cover shipping, sized to fit a 3/8 drill on the shank end, mebbe even 1/4.
Yeah, I can see where it IS possible for the hammer to not hit square. AND to ding the nipple so it is parallel to the hammer face. That would be good, in a way. Now the hammer hits it square. But, we do pull them to wash the gun, don't we, and we don't number them to go in the same chamber. That means that the nipple that is flat to the hammer last shoot might be in the next chamber, next shoot, and the "point" is in the wrong place.
I gotta see if there is anywhere to find the inside diameter of the different brands of caps. Regardless of the post above about manufacturing tolerances, I think the little copper cups are formed within a thou, for that brand. Not gonna buy Rem 11's with 5 thou diff from tin to tin. Rem to CCI, mebbe 5 or 10 thou difference, brand to brand, same "size".
I mentioned that the CCI 11's are a b****h to seat on my '60, and Rems slip on and grip real well. So, CCI IS smaller, mebbe even thicker copper. Both fall off my Pietta Rem, 'less you squeeze them, and hard.
Ah, well.
Cheers,
George