Help with a Mauser P38

I think what erob3 is missing is that the P.38 is a locked breech pistol, like the Model 1911 or the Luger. With low power cartridges, like the .22 LR or the .32 ACP, the weight (mass) of the slide is enough to hold it in place against the pressure of the cartridge until the bullet exits the barrel and the pressure drops.

But with a high power cartridge like the 9mm Luger or the .45 ACP, the designer has to either make the slide massive (for example the Hi Point) or somehow keep the barrel and slide locked together long enough for the pressure to drop. Else, the slide will move too soon and the internal pressure in the cartridge would burst the case and release high pressure gas, destroying the gun and possibly injuring the shooter.

In the P.38, "keeping the lid on" is done by the locking block holding the slide to the barrel until pressure drops, at which point the locking block is disengaged, allowing the slide to move backward to extract and eject the empty case, then come forward to pick up a fresh round and go back "into battery" with the barrel. To do this, the barrel has to move, as you see.

All of this is accomplished by recoil (not the case pushing against the slide as many folks think), and guns that work like that are called "recoil operated". Not only pistols are operated by recoil; Browning machineguns (except the BAR) are all recoil operated as are the old Remington 8 and 81 semi-auto rifles. Most semi-auto or selective fire rifles today, as well as almost all machineguns, are gas operated; the breech is locked until gas tapped from the barrel after the bullet passes operates the mechanism to open the bolt.

Jim
 
LAST POST

I just wanted to let everyone know what appears to be the final finding of this situation. I contacted a local gun shop I have done business with, the owner has MANY WWII guns. I asked if he had a P38 - GOOD Fortune - he did. He brought it to the store where I was able to compare his P38 to my Dad's Mauser. While there a friend of his was visiting, he just happened to be a metal / gunsmith. We disassembled both pistols and the first thing we found was the 3 sides of the square section on the bottom of the original Mauser locking block had been beveled at some point by some idiot. Who - When - Where? Never know. Next the locking block pin was too short, obviously worn over the years. Third the section of frame that the locking block comes in contact with has been beaten down over the years from firing a pistol that has been forced to work when it should not have. Fourth it is definitely a refinish and a poor one at that. So there it is boys and girls. I feel fairly certain if the locking block and locking block pin were replaced and then, IF POSSIBLE, the frame is repaired somehow it may shoot safely and reliably. Thanks to everyone for their input and interest. I felt it only fair to let everyone know what the final verdict was.
 
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