Help with a Mauser P38

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erob3

New member
Help with a Mauser P38 / NOW HAVE PICS

Hey Guys, My dad just bought a 1944 Mauser P38 - his first. I've tried to do some research on them and have determined it is all there, has the correct markings and is numbers matching. I do have some questions I cannot find answers too.

1) Is there a specific finish to a Duo Tone Mauser? The reason I'm asking is because the slide, receiver and barrel have a very nice brownish to bronze finish. Or Is this what they call patina?

2) The grips on the pistol are Walnut checkered. Every pic I have been able to find shows the grips to be the not so attractive brown plastic grips with grooves. Is it possible the walnut grips are original to the gun or no?

3) Possible Mechanical issue. When he got the gun I took it apart and found the recoil springs to be absolute junk, they were compressed and in no way shootable. I ordered new ones and just installed them, much better. The problem is when you pull back the slide back it can be pulled too far and the slide separates from the receiver / barrel. There are 2 steel fingers on the bottom of the receiver that push upward when this happens preventing the slide to close. At this point you have to remove the top assembly and then put it back together. Is this a problem or is this just the way it's built?

4) Lastly he is greatly interested in the value. I have checked gunbroker and found these selling for $900 or so up.

Any info that is provided is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Well the slide definitely should NOT come off if pulled back.

It sounds like the two abutments in the slide that engage the recoil springs are broken. That condition cannot be repaired except by replacing the slide, a fairly costly proposition.

Regardless of the exact problem, that gun is highly dangerous; please do not fire it. If there is no gunsmith in your area who is familiar with the P.38, perhaps a gun store can recommend someone who can help.

On your other questions, no Mauser P.38s were made with walnut grips; the grips are replacements. There were no "dual tone" P.38's as such; somtimes the different machining of slide and frame made them appear different but they weren't supposed to be. The finish should be blue, though a rather thin blue at that date. If it is brown, it is most likely plain old rust.

Pictures of the gun might help, but remember, don't shoot it until you can get it checked out.

Jim
 
Hi Jim, thanks for the info. Just a couple of things - if the abutments you spoke of are the part of the slide that the 2 small spring rods push against, they are there. You can see small marks on them the spring rods have made over the years. The slide doesn't actually come off of the frame, it just pulls back far enough that these 2 steel finger like things on the bottom of the receiver push up and will not allow the slide to move forward. As for the finish I guess the color of the pistol is just the natural aging process, it's definitely not rust. I cleaned the gun thoroughly, the finish is very shiny and smooth. I'll see what I can do about some pics. Thanks again.
 
It sounds to me like, if the finish is "shiny and smooth" as you say, it has been reblued at some time in it's life. Is the slide a "plum" or "dark reddish bronze" color? If so, it's very likely to be a reblue.

Also, to back up what Mr, Keenan said, the wood grips are replacements, probably Sile Italian made checkered walnut grips.

You mention "spring rods" as well. Are you referring to the recoil spring guides shown in the schematic as part #32? If those have been replaced with some homemade pieces that aren't the correct length, the slide may come back further than it should.

Given its current state, I doubt if you are in the $900.00 value range.
 
I have taken some pics but am unable to upload for whatever reason, I will have to work on that and hopefully get them on here later today. With the info you have provided this is what I think is happening - not too mention I can properly communicate to you the correct part names now!! Thanks for providing the website. First I believe the guide rods are original so I guess it is possible they could be a little short from years of use. Ok, I have been fiddling with the pistol and here is what it does - yes the EMPTY clip is in. When I pull the slide back to what I consider too far the locking block rasies up and does not allow the slide to move forward. However, I just discovered that when you tilt the barrel upward and pull back on the slide at the same time the locking block falls back into place and the slide can then be released. Is this the way these pistols are supposed to act? If so I'm sure everyone is having a good laugh right now cause I know nothing about the little quirks of these older pistols. As to the color of the pistol yes gyvel it is a reddish - brown - bronze color, so if that means it has been reblued at some point that explains it. Thanks to everyone for the info, please let me know about the slide.
 
The locking battery engages recesses in the slide. That is your locking mechanism and the locking battery lugs are up in the engagement position in this picture.

ReducedWaltherP1268783showingbarrel.jpg


When the slide hits the frame, the locking block operating pin pushes the lugs out of engagement with the slide. The breech is unlocked at the point.

ReducedWaltherP1268783showingframed.jpg



Without pictures of what is going on in your pistol, I have no idea. The slide should only be removed by rotating the barrel retainer latch and then pulling the slide forward off the frame.

ReducedDSCN7653P-1markingsserialnum.jpg
 
When the slide is pulled back and it goes to far the locking block operating pin desengages from the slide, this in turn allows the locking block retainer spring to push the locking block upward preventing the slide to move forward. If I pull the slide back just a bit it re-engages the pin and the locking block falls back into place. So does it make sense to just replace the spring guide rods which may be too short and this would not allow the slide to go back as far. Common sense maybe?

Attached are pics. Pics 5 & 6 show what happens when the slide is pulled back too far, the locking block raised upward.
 

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P38

How does part number 5 look from the schematic, the locking block spring. Your finish might be right on your Mauser. Post a picture of both sides of the P38 if you can.

Added, looks like the Mauser frame and slide were polished and maybe cold blued or an old reblue turning brown or maybe a Russian dipped finish partially removed. If it was the original finish the F and S (safety) would still be painted on the slide
 
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Pic of the new recoil guide rod springs and original guide rod.
 

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Pics to see if finish is possibly original.
 

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Here is the other side of the Mauser slide

Ronbo1- I checked the locking block spring and it looks ok.
 

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Judging from the photos, it pretty much looks like a reblue. You can see pitting in the metal, and the corners are a bit rounded.
 
If so I'm sure everyone is having a good laugh right now cause I know nothing about the little quirks of these older pistols.

Maybe you do,,, but you shouldn’t. From your question I have picked up more knowledge on the P38. For that I thank you for the question and the responses.
I have been looking at P-38's for some time myself.
 
Something is wrong with that pistol. The locking block should never be in the upward position with the slide retracted, and yes, that slide is going too far back.

First, check the rear of the barrel block and see that the locking block operating pin is in place. If not, you will have to replace it. If it is there, push it in and make sure it moves the locking block down. If it doesn't then the front part may be broken. Either way, it must be replaced.

The slide appears to have been cold blued after being heavily buffed to remove rust (look at the slide stop).

The slide problem is probably that your recoil spring guides are too short; they may be gunsmith work or even home made. Replace them.

BTW, to avoid trouble, the way you remove those guides and the springs is to insert a small screwdriver between the spring coils behind the guide, then push the spring back until it clears the guide. The guide will then fall out and you can release the spring and ease it forward and out. When assembling, compress the spring, hold it with the screwdriver and insert the guide.

If it is not done right, you can mess up the little cuts in the frame that retain the spring guides and then it will be difficult or impossible to install the slide.

Sorry, but that pistol is worth nowhere near $900; there is no original finish on the slide and the gun has had some work done on it and probably needs more. Maybe $300 or so as is.

BTW, the gun is a byf 44 (Mauser) not an ac 44 (Walther). A plum color from caustic tank blue is caused by a high nickel or chrome content in the steel. That slide may be plum for that reason, but I suspect cold blue.

Jim
 
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Thanks Jim, I have checked everything to do with the locking block and it appears to all be ok. As far as the gun needing other work I have disassembled the pistol and found no other issues. Other than this problem it seems to work well and shows no other issues. I will replace the spring guide rods as that seems to be the most probable problem. So once this little problem is resolved what does everyone think the value of this pistol is? I realize it's not all correct and the collectible value is diminished but it is a WWII era Mauser pistol so that has to be worth consideration. Thanks.
 
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Hi, Erob3,

:eek: OOOPs!

I just realized how picture #5 could have happened, and have duplicated the picture.

Are you putting on the slide then trying to install the barrel from the front?

You have to put the barrel in the front of the slide FIRST, and then put the barrel and slide assembly onto the frame.

Jim
 
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