Help - Stuck Round

J

jackstrawIII

New member
Hey guys,

Long story short, I have a live round stuck in my Glock barrel and I can't remove it. I tried pliers, but it's really jammed.

If I stick a dowel in the barrel and tap with a hammer, do I risk detonating the round? I have a vested interest in not shooting myself.

Thanks. Any tips would be appreciated. Here's a pic.

IMG_3969_zpsamkjgodl.jpg
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Can't see the pic.

If you lock back the slide and put a trigger guard on the trigger, (striker safety), the chances of shooting the round drop considerably. Then use a dowel to tap the round back into the action, but not too hard. A vise would help. If the slide won't go back, then get angry at it and yank hard. It will break loose. Mind where it points to be safe. Not an unusual situation, just rare, thank goodness.
 
You'd have to hit the primer to detonate the round. Ammunition gets tossed around frequently without detonating. That said you can't remove the slide in this case so it's a bit trickier than I'd like in terms of being able to separate the barrel from the pistol. I'd make sure you use an empty mag to help hold the slide open when you do this. Even if the slide were to jump forward the striker shouldn't release, but just to be safe.
 
745SW, haha. No, it's a 9mm round in a 9mm barrel. The long story is that I got a bad lot of ammo and had this problem multiple times... never this bad though. I thought I had sorted out all the bad rounds, but I guess I missed one.
 
TunnelRat,

What happened previously with a bad round in this lot of ammo (and I'm assuming happened here too) is that the round was misshapen and got stuck as it was pushed into the barrel.

I was able to loosen the slide enough to disassemble the gun and got the barrel out.

The round is still stuck. I'm so nervous to start banging on it. I know compression causes heat... but am I overthinking this too much?
 
I've had this happen with improperly sized cases on reloads.

Put a brass cleaning rod in your barrel contacting the projectile side of the round and give it a whack. It'll come out.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
I guess what I'm saying is how did you get the slide off of a Glock without pulling the trigger and detonating the primer on that round?
 
With the barrel pointing UP, spray a light lubricant into the barrel and let it soak in for 10-15 minutes.
Then, wrap the barrel with a clean rag or rubber strip to distribute the vice pressure. GENTLY mount the wrapped barrel in a vice w/ barrel pointing DOWN and primer pointing up. Put a 4x4 (2-2x4's) for a "whoops energy absorber" as a CYA under the barrel.

Ear and eye protection is next.
Then have an assistant standing back with a cell phone as the safety officer. SERIOUSLY.

Next get 2 small flat blade screwdrivers. Position them opposite each other with their blades under the rim with the fulcrum on the high part of the barrel next to the cartridge and gently pry the cartridge out of the barrel.
Examine the cartridge to determine what went wrong, report back here and don't do it again.
:)


Good luck.
 
It's possible to remove the slide without having to dry-fire the pistol. Be warned its a pain in the rear to do but doable. I just did it to prove it can be done.:eek:

What's keeping the slide from moving forward for removal is the interaction between the striker and trigger group. One of these has to be disengaged for the slide to move forward with the slide release lever pulled down. Answer is fairly straightforward, lock the slide back with the slide lock. Now remove/disable the stiker by removing the back plate of the slide. A jeweler type small blade is needed to wedge between the top part of the plate and slide to get removal going. The reason for difficulty is the extractor spring and striker sleeve are pressing against the plate.
 
A jeweler type small blade is needed to wedge between the top part of the plate and slide to get removal going. The reason for difficulty is the extractor spring and striker sleeve are pressing against the plate.
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Instead of just prying the cover plate off, use something small to push forward against the plastic sleeve visible in the rear cutout of the firing pin channel. This will relieve pressure from the striker spring on the cover plate and the plate should push off fairly easily. If it's never been disassembled, you may need to get it started with a small screwdriver, but usually you can just push it off with your thumb using the striations on the cover plate for traction.

Be sure to contain the extractor spring/plunger assembly when the cover plate is pushed off or it will go flying.
Barrel pointing down.
Dowel in barrel.
Smack dowel on table/bench/board.
Click to expand...
That's how I would do it too.
 
If you reload,you likely have a 9mm shelholder.Looks to me you could slip it on the case.

I'll bet you can figure it out from there.Whether you use a couple screwdrivers to pry,or for wedges. Just don't goober up your breech face.
Good luck

Actually,barrel held breech up,vertical in a padded vise,you could probably get a slim 7/16 or 1/2 in,or maybe an 11 or 12 mm open end wrench between the shellholder and barrel breech. That should act as a nice double sided pry bar.

If its too thick,maybe a cheap stamped wrench or you could grind down a pawn shop/HF wrench. Just use a polished side to contact the barrel.

Actually,with no reloading die in the press,you might be able to poke the muzzle through the top of the press,load the barrel into the shellholder,and bring the ram down. Rest a flat piece of steel on the press frame,let the barrel hood contact it.

You might slip a piece of hose or a universal decap die in the 7/8 14 threads up top to protect the barrel and keep it centered.

There is more than one way to do about anything
 
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There is a spray oil (I don't remember its name. All I can say is it has a white label, and it's one of those "As Seen On TV" products, and they sell it on wal-mart) that does wonders on stuck parts.
Just spray it on generously, let it soak for a few minutes, and you should be able to pry the round off with little effort.
I have used the stuff on some wheel nuts that had been cross-threaded on the lugs, and it really is amazing.:cool:
 
Kroil! Pour a bit of Kroil down the barrel, then let it sit muzzle up overnight. Kroil will "creep" into a gap as small as 1,000,000th of an inch! Best stuff ever! :cool:
 
Put a brass cleaning rod in your barrel contacting the projectile side of the round and give it a whack. It'll come out
Click to expand...

this. DO NOT USE WOOD! (pointed bullet, wood dowel, not the best idea)

Wood can splinter, and split, (even hard wood can) and you could wind up with wood jammed around the bullet making the problem WORSE.

Kroil, or similar won't hurt.

Its a stuck round, not a grenade with the pin pulled. Toss it in your freezer tonight, bet it pops right out with a wack tomorrow.

or, since you have the barrel out, and are worried about risk, take it to the gunsmith and let him deal with it. He's paid to take the (minimal in my opinion) risk.

you won't generate enough heat to detonate the round by friction pounding on the bullet.

Chill out. Literally. Put it in the freezer overnight.

OR you could do it the redneck stupid way, and heat it with a torch until the round goes off, then drive out the fired case. :eek:
(hey, y'all wanna see somthin??)
:D

I am NOT RECOMMENDING USING A TORCH!!!!!!

use the freezer, safer, and smarter!!! It will work, I'm sure.
 
PB Blaster, the one in the middle. I don't know if it's better or worse than Kroil, but the stuff is amazing.
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Stinky.
Nasty.
Gets gummy if not cleaned up.

SeaFoam Deep Creep and CRC Ultra Screwloose are superior.
 
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