Help me make my 1911 more reliable

O

Overkill777

New member
I have a para ordnance single stack 45 auto 1911 I got used in a pawn shop 5 years ago. I have put a few thousand rounds through it and it has been fairly reliable depending on the ammo up until recently. I have started getting a failure to feed on the last round in the magazine. I was starting to think it was just the magazine springs wearing out but it also happened on a brand new wilson 47d mag. Obviously my firearm is telling me it has some overdue maintenance.

So I decided to start with replacing the springs; I have new recoil springs (17 lb, 18.5 lb to try each), firing pin spring, and mainspring on order.

Some research i did leads me to believe my extractor needs replacing. It holds the case with the point vs with the flat, hopefully you know what I mean from this image:

20151110_213648_1.jpg


So would you say I need a new extractor? The extractor tension seems fine.

What else should I look at?
 
I have started getting a failure to feed on the last round in the magazine. I was starting to think it was just the magazine springs wearing out but it also happened on a brand new wilson 47d mag. Obviously my firearm is telling me it has some overdue maintenance.

So I decided to start with replacing the springs; I have new recoil springs (17 lb, 18.5 lb to try each), firing pin spring, and mainspring on order.
Click to expand...


OK, not a 1911 guy. (Yet, but that's only in the works.) But, I had something similar with a Ruger P90 once, feeding problems on the last round.

The fix was, a combination of a Wolff recoil spring one step up from factory, and polishing the breechface. I suspect the principle is the same.
 
I'D be inclined to buy an extra extractor, and just try it to see. If it fixes the problem, so be it. If it does not fix the problem, that is still of diagnostic value, AND, you have a spare extractor if the original breaks at some point in the future.
 
You can tune the extractor and stone it so it holds the case correctly. There is info on stoning the hook to fit correctly. If the gun just started jamming the ext. hook probably isn't the problem, wear didn't cause the extractor to fit like this. look at the magazine again, try a new/good Colt mag if you can. Reshape the hook and tune it.
 
Ok I will order a new extractor and make sure it is fitted and tuned properly. I don't want to start filing on my only extractor for fear of making it worse.

I will try some different magazines too, particularly colt.

I may have a gunsmith look at the feed ramp if these measures don't help.

I also need to consider ammo as this happened with handloads. I load hornady xtp to the oal listed in their manual but it seems really short to me. Also maybe the bullet profile is playing a role.
 
Two things here,the case head should be flush with the breech face but your
picture shows a gap and the other issue is the rim not being in contact with the extractor flat bottom.I can't see whether you have a high primer or what is causing the head to be off set but there's a problem with either,then unless you
have modified the extractor I would guess that it has lost its spring tension and
it doesn't reach the rim.
 
Try chambering a round, then drop the magazine and fire the weapon. If the extractor is too loose, the empty case will fall down the magazine well instead of ejecting through the ejection port as it should.

The fact that it fails on the last round in the mag is an indication that something about the extractor is not right. When feeding from a full or partially full magazine, the rounds being fed are partially pushed into position under the extractor by the magazine tension pushing the rounds up.

Also check to see that the extractor is properly clearanced, particularly the bottom. There should be a smooth bevel on the bottom where the rim rides up the extractor.

Replacing the recoil spring is probably not a bad idea as you bought the weapon used and no real idea of how many rounds have been through it. The standard spring rating for a 5 inch 1911 is 16 pounds. A heavier spring is not going to help with feeding-all it does is return the slide to battery.
 
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The hook looks overly long, as already noted. It should be "about" .035" deep.
As usual, lots of guns work reliably with hooks not of that dimension, just as you'll hear that you need 28.2oz of extractor tension for reliable function, when some guns will function perfectly with no measureable tension, and others will run with three pounds of tension.
The hook not allowing the case rim to sit flush against the breechface is also normal, even if not what is considered ideal. The specs allow for interference between the tip of the extractor hook and the case bevel, which will push the case away from the breechface.
If the hook is too deep, shortening it to closer to spec will reduce the interference.
EGW makes an extractor that is .015" shorter than spec, pulling the hook closer to the breechface and reducing the tip/bevel interference.
 
Get on YouTube and look up Wilson Combat Extractor Tuning. Shows how to tune the extractor and cure the hook problem seen in your photo. The hook is too long and not letting the case rim set in the channel of the extractor. There are many other good videos on tuning the 1911 extractors also. You'll need a set of assorted small files. The extractors are pretty easy to tune once you have seen it done correctly.
 
OP says:
I have put a few thousand rounds through it and it has been fairly reliable depending on the ammo up until recently.
Click to expand...
Extractor dimensions were good enough for thousands of cycles.
Hooks don't grow longer with use.
Tension may weaken or damage may take place from dropping the slide on a
chambered round but the hook don't grow longer.
Probably a good idea to replace it,as to filing or dremeling,it could make things worse.All the extractor replacements I've seen needed only tension adjustment
to work and nothing else.
 
I have some updates.

First, the extractor. I took it out and surprise, surprise, it is a para power extractor. Dammit, the replacement I ordered isn't going to work. I am going to order this one:
http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=1541

Next, the springs that I replaced were extremely short compared to the replacements. The worst was the mainspring, it almost looks like it was cut shorter by Bubba in attempt to decrease trigger pull. I would think this would throw off the timing.

Lastly, and this is where I really need help, I am thinking that my barrel link is too long. From my research, the jam I am getting is a 3 point jam, and one possible cause is the barrel link. I removed my link measured it, it is .288" center to center. So I think the barrel is "riding the link". Also, I can see that the link is holding the barrel in lockup rather than lower lugs which I understand is not ideal. So how should I approach this? Order a standard .278" link, throw it in and see how it does?
 
First, the extractor. I took it out and surprise, surprise, it is a para power extractor. Dammit, the replacement I ordered isn't going to work. I am going to order this one:
http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=1541
Click to expand...

This might be useful to you: MILLENIUM CUSTOM II - 1911 AUTO PARA-ORDNANCE EXTRACTOR SLEEVE

Machined stainless steel sleeve lets you convert a Para-Ordnance pistol from its original factory “power extractor” to a standard 1911 extractor or a Millennium Custom Advanced Competition Extractor. Works like a shim to help ensure a secure fit with the new extractor. Greatly expands your options for selecting the aftermarket extractor that suits your needs.
Click to expand...
 
Look at your magazine follower. Does it have a "tit" in it sticking up? If it doesn't, get a magazine or a follower that does.

Jim
 
I am addressing magazine issues as well. Really just need help determining which is the correct barrel link to have installed and this puzzle should be solved (including all the other replacements I have made).
 
Unless youre doing this as a learning "exercise", Id recommend taking it to a good 1911 smith, and have it looked at.

Ive had 1911's since there was only "one", and even those needed some basic things done to make them reliable, especially with ammo of differing types.

My experience with the "copies", was pretty much always less than stellar. Some never worked, some did OK, but none were ever trustworthy enough to carry but my Colts/GI guns.

I used to take my 1911's to EGW for their "reliability package", basically a throat and polish, with a few extras. The owner there was a former smith at Austin Behlerts shop, and luckily, their shop was just down the road from me at the time. They did great work at reasonable prices.

Behlerts was a cool place to visit to. Some very interesting stuff in there, especially the High Powers and Walther PPKs.
 
I removed my link measured it, it is .288" center to center. So I think the barrel is "riding the link". Also, I can see that the link is holding the barrel in lockup rather than lower lugs which I understand is not ideal. So how should I approach this? Order a standard .278" link, throw it in and see how it does?
Click to expand...

Have you done any testing for a long link, beyond the measurement?
See if you can find Schuemann's timing test online.
Some people claim that it's not possible for a gun to pass all the tests at the same time, but it does help understand how the barrel/link/slide/frame are supposed to interact.
The long link may have been installed to address something other than lock-up, so changing it to a shorter one might have some negative knock-on effects.
 
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