Help me buy my 18 year-old son his first handgun...

He's old enough to be responsible...but with no skills or sense of awareness of hand gun issues...that said, I'd get him a .22 LR revolver...a good one...S&W or Ruger. He'll be able to learn the basics with a piece that will stay with him his entire life and both makes are accurate enough for all but the most demanding target applications. And last but not least...you've bought an AMERICAN product, with a warranty that reads in English, and customer service that's first rate.

An automatic .22 is another choice, but with a new shooter you run the risk of training with a gun that's always "hot", hence the revolver choice.

With a Smith, you get that S&W fabulous trigger and double action if you want to go in that direction for speed work later on.

With a Ruger Single Six, you get the nostalgia factor but with a first rate accuracy record to boot. Too, it's single action only...a safety attribute in my estimation.

Were it me, I'd opt for the Ruger...and there are plenty available at $100 less than the $500 you've budgeted.

Best regards, Rodfac
 
Hello tobnpr,,,

There is another option for .22 conversion kits.

Most kits convert a centerfire pistol to shot .22 cartridges,,,
Sig-Sauer has an option that's the other direction.

They make three pistols in what they call their "Classic .22" line,,,
You buy the pistol configured to fire .22 LR cartridges,,,
The converter takes it to fire a centerfire cartridge,,,
9mm, .357 Sig, .40, or .45 depending on model.

P220 Classic 22

P226 Classic 22

P229 Classic 22

Pricey guns and the conversion kit isn't cheap either,,,
But like I said, it's another option you might want to consider.

I'm extremely happy with my two CZ pistols,,,
So I tend to recommend them whenever the occasion arises,,,
But there are many other options out there for a .22/centerfire cartridge conversion.

.
 
But, what about safety?

OK,
I'd still appreciate some input on the above question, re: the Glock safety system.

If I understand it correctly (and I really think I don't- so someone please explain!) there is no manual safety on the Glock. The gun is always on safe, unless the finger is on the trigger.

However, I'm not sure that's an advantage. As I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, safety is paramount given 1. new shooter 2. he's my son...

So, is the Glock system the safest? How does it compare with the safety systems of other manufacturers? Being familiar only with rifle safety systems, this is new territory...
 
If I understand it correctly (and I really think I don't- so someone please explain!) there is no manual safety on the Glock. The gun is always on safe, unless the finger is on the trigger.
Click to expand...

Incorrect assumptions before you even began analysis.

Correct assumption: All guns are inherently not on safe. Mechanical safeties are not something that should ever be relied upon exclusively.

You're correct that there is no manual safety on a glock.

There's the trigger "dingus." There's a trigger bar deflector. There's a firing pin block safety.

All of these are deactivated passively by the act of pulling the trigger.

A Glock will not go off if dropped. However, a glock will go off if a stick goes into the trigger guard, or a holster strap goes into the trigger guard, or if a finger goes into the trigger guard.

If the trigger moves, a Glock WILL fire.
 
From a perspective of "what is the most deliberate safety system out there for a convertible .22 that can also serve as a centerfire platform?"

The safest of your 3 listed is the CZ Cadet.

The Glock... is a glock. Pull the trigger, it'll go off. No manual safety anywhere.

The 1911, depending on the maker, may not have a firing pin block. If you want safety from dropping, you want a firing pin block. The 1911 is also a very light SA trigger. And only SA. There is a manual safety and grip safety, though.

The CZ has a DA/SA trigger system. If you get a DAO CZ as the base platform for the Kadet kit, the Kadet will operate as DAO making the trigger pull harder. The CZ has a manual safety like the 1911 does. The CZ does not have a grip safety. The CZ does, however, come with a firing pin block.
 
Understood.
As I stated, I was thinking that wasn't necessarily an advantage. Actually, sounds like just the opposite to me, as a novice.
I can't imagine not having a manual safety. There's millions of Glocks out there, so what are the advantages (I guess the disadvantage is obvious) of the Glock safety system?

Are there many variations of safety systems for handguns, or do all they all function in pretty much the same manner?

I'm not trying to start a huge discussion or debate, just trying to get an understanding of the basics, and whether or not there are significant differences in safety systems on the various handguns we're discussing that merit my consideration in making a selection.

Thank you all, again, for edumacating me...
 
IMHO, a 22 Ruger Single Six. When I was 18, I spent more time trying to empty the mag of an autoloader than learning good shooting mechanics. A revolver will slow that impulse.
 
The disadvantage and advantage of the Glock system are the same - it doesn't have a manual safety.

And yes, there are a variety of manual safety types, basically differentiated by whether the hammer or striker is blocked or decocked by the action of the safety. Glock's approach is eccentric.

You have to take what you hear about Glocks with a grain of salt. A lot of novices start out with Glocks and tend to over-promote their features and performance.
 
As I stated, I was thinking that wasn't necessarily an advantage. Actually, sounds like just the opposite to me, as a novice.
I can't imagine not having a manual safety. There's millions of Glocks out there, so what are the advantages (I guess the disadvantage is obvious) of the Glock safety system?
Click to expand...

It's a huge advantage in self defense terms (for some people who value this idea).

If you're carrying a gun and need to draw it, you don't have to train yourself to sweep the safety off during the draw stroke. Simply draw, present, aim and fire. No safety operation needed. I carry a Springfield XD9 like that... no manual safety to deliberately disengage.

The XD has a similar safety system to the glock (trigger dingus, firing pin block) but doesn't have the trigger bar deflector (I don't think). It does have a grip safety like a 1911, though. It is what it is... it ain't perfect, but then no gun is. It works for me.

Some folks love having a manual safety to disengage.

Some folks hate it.

I have a friend with a Ruger P-series pistol that can never remember to disengage his safety when he gets ready to fire. Thousands of rounds through it. But just can't get himself trained to do it.

My thoughts?

I think a novice's first automatic pistol should have a visible hammer if it's going to be a centerfire pistol. While a DA stroke is still possible (on a DA/SA platform), it's a much harder "accidental" trigger pull than an SA stroke.

And I hate slide-mounted safeties... frame mounted safeties are 100% A-OK though. I used to carry a 1911 for awhile before going to the XD platform. I never had a problem disengaging the safety on that platform. Slide-mounted safeties are found on S&W metal framed autos, Ruger semiautomatics, Beretta 92's and many other guns. Frame-mounted safeties are found on 1911's, Sigs, CZ's and many other guns. Frame-mounted safeties are easily disengaged during the draw stroke without a major shift in grip, while slide-mounted safeties are awkward to disengage on the draw.

However, safety operation while drawing is a topic for self defense rather than marksmanship. I think it's a valid long term consideration but it probably ranks low on your current priority list at this point.
 
Give him the very best, one he will have for the rest of his life and can pass on to his kid.

Browning High Power in 9mm a great first gun.
 
Are there many variations of safety systems for handguns, or do all they all function in pretty much the same manner?
Click to expand...

Yes, several types of safeties. One are the "automatic" safeties such as in the Glock that release with trigger pressure and you don't do anything extra to release them. They are for protecting against accidental discharges from dropping, etc., but not for "accidentally" putting your finger on the trigger.

Then there is the frame mounted safety of single action such as the 1911 and Browning HiPower. The safety is only applied when the hammer is cocked and prevents the trigger from being pulled and from the hammer being released. These are very simple and easy to release, and they always work in the same fashion: up is safe and down is ready to fire. It is readily visible how the safety engages the slide so you never are confused if up or down is safe.

Then you have decockers which are not really safeties but use a lever similar to a safety so they can be confused. The traditional SIG pistols have a decocker-only lever, as well as some variations of Beretta and S&W. The de-cocker just lowers the hammer safely so it will require the longer stiffer DA trigger pull to fire. The idea is if you have to shoot you shoot first with the harder DA trigger pull, subsequent shots are SA, and when finished shooting you de-cock and holster. The SIG decocker is frame mounted while many other brands are slide mounted in place of a safety lever.

Then there is the traditional slide mounted safety. Usually this both decocks as the lever is pushed down and locks on safe when fully depressed. However, some brands have the lever going UP to be on safe. S&W, Beretta, Ruger and many others use a slide mounted safety. Personally this is my least liked method. There is no functional visible clue as to which direction is safe or the lever is moved except for red arrow and dots/words.

Then there is the CZ safety. It can be applied like a 1911 safety to lock on safe with a cocked hammer, or used as a decock and safe lever.

Another non-safety safety is the double action only trigger that makes every trigger pull 8-12 lbs so it is not easy to pull it by accident. This simulates the "safety" of a DA revolver. Revolvers generally have no safety but the hard trigger pull prevents most accidental pulls.

Personally, I like the Glock or DA-only method, or the 1911/BHP frame safety. Whatever brand you get, make sure your son is very comfortable with the safety and trigger function even if it is just for the range. It should feel natural to him and not require a lot of "which way does it go?" thinking.
 
Just read through 4 page of posts, and lots of good advice offered.

But for another thought, it will take A LOT more practice with a handgun to get proficient vis a rifle from a bench. Frankly, it's really easy to get somebody shooting reasonably well with a scoped rifle from a bench rest. To become a decent shot with a handgun past arm's length will take 1000s of rounds and repetitions.

THAT said, if it takes a 1911 or a Glock or a .357 to get him interested in shooting, then go that route. A Ruger Mk II or III can be found inexpensively later. My first handgun experience was with a High Standard .22LR, followed by a S&W Highway Patrolman in .357 (using .38 wadcutters) and a Taurus PT-92 in 9mm. The .22 establishes the basics without instilling fear and the mild centerfires teach you how to apply those basics to something that moves a little with the shot.
 
if safety is the main concern then a long barrel revolver with an exposed hammer is in order. my first handgun was a s&w model 686 (still one of my favorites). problem with any automatic is folks remove the mag thinking the gun is unloaded and forget to check the chamber and bang!! someone loses a finger (or worse) as was the case of one of my dad's army buddies in germany with his 1911.
 
Something us young guns see as power. We like recoil
Click to expand...

I disagree. That is a broad statement. I've taken MANY non-shooters to the range. they start with .22 then they move up the power scale. 38, 9mm, 40, 357, then .44mag. until they find their 'limit' for what they like to shoot. Most guys always go up to .44 mag most girls get to .40 or .357 but the ALWAYS and i mean ALWAYS go back to plinking with .22s because its more enjoyable. They shoot better, groups shrink, tin cans fall, most importantly flinching stops... then I explain to the everything the learn can apply to centerfire shooting.
 
Pick something you can afford to feed, and is accurate enough to reward diligent attention to marksmanship fundamentals.

My vote is .22 target pistol ..... Ruger Mark whatever, Smith 22A, Browning Buckmark ...... there are better, more expensive .22 target guns out there, but for starters, those will work.
 
Pistol shooting uses a lot of ammo,,,

Do you guys that shoot both find that the number of handgun rounds fired typically varies significantly- more or less- than when you're shooting a rifle?
Click to expand...

Oh heck yes!

Semi-auto pistols tend to give you Diarrhea of the Trigger Finger,,,
You tend to burn through ammo like there is no tomorrow.

CZ-s have 16 round magazines plus the one in the pipe,,,
That's about 4-6 seconds of rapid fire shooting,,,
Three magazines and that box of 50 is gone.

Try as you might to resist, the urge to burn the rounds off quick will hit you,,,
Most people I know average 200-300 rounds of ammo per trip,,,
But you are reloading so that can help keep costs down.

I hate to keep beating a dead horse but I see this all the danged time,,,
I have friends with truly fantastic guns they rarely shoot,,,
It's all due to the high cost of feeding the beasts.

My friends call me all the time to go shooting,,,
Then they say "Hey Aarond, will you bring that NEOS with you?"

I always bring extra .22 semi-auto pistols,,,
Usually my Ruger 22/45 and my Beretta NEOS,,,
So when my friends run out of 9mm after a half hour,,,
We can continue to shoot and enjoy each others camaraderie.

My lady friend is the same way,,,
She has a snub-nose .38 special revolver,,,
I talked her into getting an identical revolver in .22 LR,,,
Now instead of going to the range once a month or even less,,,
She goes every other week and shoots often enough that she is getting seriously good.

It's all because she can afford to shoot the .22 often enough,,,
That practice time really becomes quality practice time.

Okay,,,
I think this horse is dead enough now.

.
 
I second Boondockcrain, and say go with a 9mm. The kick isn't harsh at all, and it is still a great choice for self defense. I would suggest either a Ruger P95, Glock 17, Smith and Wesson M&P 9 full size, or even a CZ-75. Let him hold a few guns and see what feels best in his hands.

Good Luck!
 
I'll get beat up for this, but a S&W sigma 9mm . Trigger is a little stiff but if he learns to shoot with this ,he won't know any better. Usually you can find them new for $300.00 maybe less with rebate. You get a very dependable gun with a life time warranty. I have one and love for what it is, low priced and will shoot anything .
 
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