Help me buy a Mosin Nagant
- Thread starter Ozzieman
- Start date
m&p45acp10+1
New member
Make sure the stock is not cracked. The numbers on the bolt should match the receiver numbers, as well as the numbers on the top of the butt plate should match as well. Look down the barrel, you should see strong rifling. Dark or shining should not make that big of deal. It should come with a bayonette, a sling, and some other do dads. Like the rest of the cleaning kit, with an oil can, ammo pouch, and an oil skin bag for the cleaning kit, and multitool.
Look for unusual markings, such as Double and triple date MO marked, DDR marked, Finn marked, or ex Dragoons.
Frankly I wouldn't be all that worried about matching numbers, all recent import Mosins Nagants have been reworked, possibly more than once.
Frankly I wouldn't be all that worried about matching numbers, all recent import Mosins Nagants have been reworked, possibly more than once.
Check the bore. If it looks gunky, ask them to run a patch through there to make sure you've got a good bore.
Take the gun apart. Pull the bolt off and take the furniture off and look at everything with a good light. Bring a flashlight. The last one I bought, I found had some exterior barrel pitting hiding under the wood up front. No other rust or corrosion at all. The rifle shoots great, and I've re-blued that part of the barrel, but it still bothers me that I didn't pull the furniture off when I was checking it out.
I'd pass on a collectors gun vs. a good bore. To each his own.
Take the gun apart. Pull the bolt off and take the furniture off and look at everything with a good light. Bring a flashlight. The last one I bought, I found had some exterior barrel pitting hiding under the wood up front. No other rust or corrosion at all. The rifle shoots great, and I've re-blued that part of the barrel, but it still bothers me that I didn't pull the furniture off when I was checking it out.
I'd pass on a collectors gun vs. a good bore. To each his own.
Are you looking for a "collectible", or a shooter?
Leade, bore and crown are the ticket for a decent shooter, especially if you are going to accurize the military stock, or mod it into an aftermarket stock with an optic.
It is a good idea to check headspace as you're intending- though it's rarely an issue, especially with re-arsenaled guns.
For shooters, the re-arsenaled guns are usually a good bet. The stocks will have a square with a diagonal slash, blueing will be good to excellent.
For collecting, good info here:
http://7.62x54r.net/
Leade, bore and crown are the ticket for a decent shooter, especially if you are going to accurize the military stock, or mod it into an aftermarket stock with an optic.
It is a good idea to check headspace as you're intending- though it's rarely an issue, especially with re-arsenaled guns.
For shooters, the re-arsenaled guns are usually a good bet. The stocks will have a square with a diagonal slash, blueing will be good to excellent.
For collecting, good info here:
http://7.62x54r.net/
The stocks will have a square with a diagonal slash,
My research hadn’t found that thanks.
This will be a shooter only. I have a number of WW2 guns but no Russian and from what I have read they were crude but very good guns.
I have handled them numerous times but never fired one. Shooting for me is fun and this is just one more way to shoot more.
Any one load lead bullets for the Mosin?
I have been doing research on the gun from the help all of you have provided and more of my own and I found this,,,,, I can assure you the one I buy will NEVER look like this.
http://www.promagindustries.com/product-p/aa9130.htm
My research hadn’t found that thanks.
This will be a shooter only. I have a number of WW2 guns but no Russian and from what I have read they were crude but very good guns.
I have handled them numerous times but never fired one. Shooting for me is fun and this is just one more way to shoot more.
Any one load lead bullets for the Mosin?
I have been doing research on the gun from the help all of you have provided and more of my own and I found this,,,,, I can assure you the one I buy will NEVER look like this.
http://www.promagindustries.com/product-p/aa9130.htm
new 1942 Izhevsk Mosin Nagant 91/30
New gun, I will try to make this as short as possible.
Gun show and two gun shops I looked at about 15. Picked one at a store with a big mountain.
I looked at 6 there and picked out what I considered the best. They were nice enough to bring some up front.
This is where it gets funny. They list the price on the internet at 149$. I picked out the gun and its now 179$???
When I told them about their internet price I heard this bull story about the ones on the internet are beat up and nowhere as good as these.
If you order one on the internet do they come to your home? I asked. That stopped him in his tracks. The manager came over and it was a 15 minute argument on the price. I know some of you are saying why argue about 30$ but by that time he was talking to me like I had just crawled out from under a rock, I actually told him that.
So I then had to show the manager how and where to look up their sales price on line. He finally agreed that 149$ was the price. So the paperwork continues. Everything done money paid and the clerk calls the manager over to check out everything before I walk out.
This is after an hour and no not done yet.
Had the wrong serial number on the paperwork.
The clerks comment “That was the number on the tag!”
I have worked in a number of gun stores in the 80’s and 90’s. One was a class 3 dealer, I have spent less time on class 3 paperwork then this transaction.
With everything all of you have helped me with I am 70% sure it’s a 1942 Izhevsk Mosin Nagant 91/30. The bolt is very clean, barrel is dark but has good rifling. I’m not too sure but it might have been recrowned. The lands are sharp at the end but the crown is highly polished. All of the guns I looked at were the same. The wood is very nice with a few rough marks but no repair.
The one I picked out had the square with a diagonal slash, thank you tobnpr and most of them also had it. It came with everything bayonet, oil, tools and more.
Thanks to everyone for the help and the great information, I could have done it myself but it would have taken 6 months and most of the hair that’s left on my head, I had no idea there were that many variations of the gun, and just how much I didn’t know.
Again thanks
New gun, I will try to make this as short as possible.
Gun show and two gun shops I looked at about 15. Picked one at a store with a big mountain.
I looked at 6 there and picked out what I considered the best. They were nice enough to bring some up front.
This is where it gets funny. They list the price on the internet at 149$. I picked out the gun and its now 179$???
When I told them about their internet price I heard this bull story about the ones on the internet are beat up and nowhere as good as these.
If you order one on the internet do they come to your home? I asked. That stopped him in his tracks. The manager came over and it was a 15 minute argument on the price. I know some of you are saying why argue about 30$ but by that time he was talking to me like I had just crawled out from under a rock, I actually told him that.
So I then had to show the manager how and where to look up their sales price on line. He finally agreed that 149$ was the price. So the paperwork continues. Everything done money paid and the clerk calls the manager over to check out everything before I walk out.
This is after an hour and no not done yet.
Had the wrong serial number on the paperwork.
The clerks comment “That was the number on the tag!”
I have worked in a number of gun stores in the 80’s and 90’s. One was a class 3 dealer, I have spent less time on class 3 paperwork then this transaction.
With everything all of you have helped me with I am 70% sure it’s a 1942 Izhevsk Mosin Nagant 91/30. The bolt is very clean, barrel is dark but has good rifling. I’m not too sure but it might have been recrowned. The lands are sharp at the end but the crown is highly polished. All of the guns I looked at were the same. The wood is very nice with a few rough marks but no repair.
The one I picked out had the square with a diagonal slash, thank you tobnpr and most of them also had it. It came with everything bayonet, oil, tools and more.
Thanks to everyone for the help and the great information, I could have done it myself but it would have taken 6 months and most of the hair that’s left on my head, I had no idea there were that many variations of the gun, and just how much I didn’t know.
Again thanks
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nice mosin. im proud you fought for the price, these stores can be pricks, good for you sticking to your guns..literally lol
it may shoot high right, sight adjustment will fix this.
if you have any rust spots, clean and use rustoleum matt black spray can, its close to origional color and will prevent rust.
now, you will want to remove the cosmo (the gooey stuff on/in the rifle), soap water, simple green, heat can do the job.
the stock with that symbol means its a replacement stock, if not mistaken
shine a light down the barrel an see if there is pitting.
not much more i can say to help
it may shoot high right, sight adjustment will fix this.
if you have any rust spots, clean and use rustoleum matt black spray can, its close to origional color and will prevent rust.
now, you will want to remove the cosmo (the gooey stuff on/in the rifle), soap water, simple green, heat can do the job.
the stock with that symbol means its a replacement stock, if not mistaken
shine a light down the barrel an see if there is pitting.
not much more i can say to help
Yep, nice clean example in a post war stock (You can tell by the sling slots, details here)
For rust spots, if any, start with gun oil on a rag. You would be surprised how well surface rust comes off without damaging the finish with just oil and elbow grease.
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There is very little pitting that I can see, haven’t run a brush down it yet haven’t had the time. Only about 3 inches from the start of the rifling is where the pitting is but its minor. The rest of the barrel is dark but very sharp rifling.
The only rust so far is on the markings. I will take the stock off sometime this week and give it a good cleaning and inspection. It passed the go no/go gages so I feel it’s a safe gun to shoot.
Next question.
I have found a lot of surplus corrosive berdan primed ammo for under 90$. Who have you had good luck with buying from? I have heard good and bad things about Ammoman and cheaper than dirt. I’ve shot a lot of corrosive ammo in years past and know how to take care of a gun so that’s not an issue.
I reload and haven’t bought factory ammo other than some bulk 5.56 in years.
Again thanks for the help.
The only rust so far is on the markings. I will take the stock off sometime this week and give it a good cleaning and inspection. It passed the go no/go gages so I feel it’s a safe gun to shoot.
Next question.
I have found a lot of surplus corrosive berdan primed ammo for under 90$. Who have you had good luck with buying from? I have heard good and bad things about Ammoman and cheaper than dirt. I’ve shot a lot of corrosive ammo in years past and know how to take care of a gun so that’s not an issue.
I reload and haven’t bought factory ammo other than some bulk 5.56 in years.
Again thanks for the help.
I don't shoot the surplus, but you can't go wrong with AIM:
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=A76254R
A lot of guys report that the Bulgarian silver tip shoots great, but good luck finding any.
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=A76254R
A lot of guys report that the Bulgarian silver tip shoots great, but good luck finding any.
jaytex1969
New member
I just got a case (880 rounds) on Sportsman's Guide for $175 shipped, using coupon code sh997.
70;s era Russian 147gr.
Congrats on your first Mosin.......
70;s era Russian 147gr.
Congrats on your first Mosin.......
wolf or bear is good to start
i use mach grade manly for long distance, but wollf works fin 50-100
bear is ok 50yrds but consistency is off.
winchester has primer issues sometimes so i stay away from that.
now as for rust... my mosin is great in accuracy but for rust it had a bunch under the hand guard over the barrel. i use jb weld and rustoleum to fix it
but oil and elbo grease is best to start fixing minor rusting
i use mach grade manly for long distance, but wollf works fin 50-100
bear is ok 50yrds but consistency is off.
winchester has primer issues sometimes so i stay away from that.
now as for rust... my mosin is great in accuracy but for rust it had a bunch under the hand guard over the barrel. i use jb weld and rustoleum to fix it
but oil and elbo grease is best to start fixing minor rusting