Gatofeo and mykeal, Thank you for clarifying the powder rating issue. It's great that you guys are willing to help us novices to understand the principles involved in this sport. I'll be putting a notbook together and I'll certainly print out that "sticky" that Gatofeo took the time and effort to post. Good to have people who are willing to help understand.
HELP.. loading 1851 navy
- Thread starter capkid
- Start date
Doc Hoy - for the powders that are currently on the market, yes, they're very consistent. The only caveat is that some substitute powders have reputations suggesting they do not reform well once contaminated by water and/or they have long term shelf life issues once the original containers are opened. That last comment seems to have gotten less play in the last few years so they may have gotten better. Real black powders are known to have excellent reputations for rehabbing once wet and long term stability.
Netnar2 - you're very welcome. Be sure to share what you learn as well.
Netnar2 - you're very welcome. Be sure to share what you learn as well.
mykeal, I find the Net very useful to obtain current/up to date information that might not be avaiable in books that were written 10 years ago. The same applies to my other hobbies (Radio Control Model Airplanes and restoring a Corvette). I try to help those who are just getting into the hobbies but I'm careful not to overstate my expertise on the subjects. I don't want to steer anyone the wrong way. As I get some time under my belt with black powder shooting, I'll be more than glad to help others who are starting out. Thanks again for your help.
You might look at Hodgdons handbook on blackpowders. You'll note you can go to 35 gr pyrodex in steel frames .44s but they only load to 25 gr in triple 777. All powders are not created equal as far as pressure etc are
concerned. Hodgdons also has a help line which I would use as question began as brass frame query which book doesn't address. I use 25 gr in brass and 35 gr in steel with no problems.
concerned. Hodgdons also has a help line which I would use as question began as brass frame query which book doesn't address. I use 25 gr in brass and 35 gr in steel with no problems.Thanks Herb. Whitebear26 has a black powder loading book on order. We definitlely aren't going to go too high in powder charge. I'll tend to stay at the lower side with a brass half frame 1851. I've read that brass isn't as strong as steel (obviuos) but I've also read that half frames can't handle as much as full framed revolvers.
madcratebuilder
New member
netnarc2 said:
Your 51 navy brasser well do well in the 18-22gr area. If it was a steel frame you could go to 22-30 grs. Colt recommended 25grs for their .44 holster frame.
As far as the open top vs top strap revolvers strength. The open tops have a substantial arbor that gives them the needed structural strength. The top strap designs only need a small cylinder pin.
Carefully remove the cylinder from the revolver: place the hammer on half cock, remove the wedge, then rotate the cylinder so that the loading lever plunger presses against the web between two chambers and use the lever to remove the barrel assembly. Then remove the cylinder. Be sure the gun is pointed away from yourself and anyone else in the room while doing this.
The cylinder is removed so that, if a chamber is ignited while the caps are being removed the ball will not reach full velocity. While it will cause damage or injury, the effect will be much less than if the ball travels through the barrel and reaches full velocity.
With the cylinder on the bench open end down, carefully remove each cap from the nipple. Once the caps are removed the probability of a chamber being ignited is greatly reduced, but you still need to exercise caution. Next, remove each nipple with the nipple wrench. Hold the cylinder over a towel or large vessel to collect the ball and powder. Insert a small wood or metal dowel (3/16" diameter) into the nipple hole and slowly but firmly push the powder column and ball out of each cylinder.
The cylinder is removed so that, if a chamber is ignited while the caps are being removed the ball will not reach full velocity. While it will cause damage or injury, the effect will be much less than if the ball travels through the barrel and reaches full velocity.
With the cylinder on the bench open end down, carefully remove each cap from the nipple. Once the caps are removed the probability of a chamber being ignited is greatly reduced, but you still need to exercise caution. Next, remove each nipple with the nipple wrench. Hold the cylinder over a towel or large vessel to collect the ball and powder. Insert a small wood or metal dowel (3/16" diameter) into the nipple hole and slowly but firmly push the powder column and ball out of each cylinder.
As long as the chambers are sealed against moisture entering (or a static spark)
I'd just leave it loaded, but secure it against tampering or dropping.
Once you've done that just take it to the range next time & empty it by firing.
The originals were sometimes left loaded for long periods with no ill effects, so why not just keep it safe, sealed & wait it out?
I'd just leave it loaded, but secure it against tampering or dropping.Once you've done that just take it to the range next time & empty it by firing.
The originals were sometimes left loaded for long periods with no ill effects, so why not just keep it safe, sealed & wait it out?
Absolutely true. There's no good reason not to wait until the next trip to the range to 'unload' it.
You'll have to consider whether or not to remove the caps, however. Issues like whether or not you need to lock it up to keep it from little hands, etc. play into that decision.
You'll have to consider whether or not to remove the caps, however. Issues like whether or not you need to lock it up to keep it from little hands, etc. play into that decision.
I guess the question is, why did you load it before going to the range, especially when you're still in the experimental mode? Leaving it loaded is perfectly fine, but I would recommend you treat your bp pistol as being every bit as deadly as a modern gun and use the same safety proceedures and then some !!
madcratebuilder
New member
Remove the caps, if it's capped. Store the cylinder in a sealed plastic bag until you go shoot.
Thanks for all of your help..
{I never put caps on-just loaded ball/powder}
I'm going to try to unload it. Don't feel safe loaded-no AD's(even w/o caps).
Do you think I could "dig" out the powder, thur the nipple holes;and save it?
Capkid
-I did buy another pistol-
My first matched pistol set
{I never put caps on-just loaded ball/powder}
I'm going to try to unload it. Don't feel safe loaded-no AD's(even w/o caps).
Do you think I could "dig" out the powder, thur the nipple holes;and save it?
Capkid
-I did buy another pistol-
My first matched pistol set
Last edited:
Perhaps I wasn't clear.
Remove the nipples.
Use a small round piece of wood that will fit through the hole left by the nipple, and push both the powder column and ball out the chamber mouth. A metal punch or even a Phillips head screwdriver will work as well.
You can certainly collect the powder and reuse it. I'd discard the balls, however.
Do not attempt to 'dig out' the powder. While it is extremely unlikely you could generate enough friction heat (450 deg C) to set off the powder, scraping it is the one way I can think of to do that, so don't chance it. Besides, you won't get nearly enough out. It's been compressed into a solid mass. You'll be surprised at how easily it comes out if you push it out the chamber mouth and how it all sticks together when compressed.
Remove the nipples.
Use a small round piece of wood that will fit through the hole left by the nipple, and push both the powder column and ball out the chamber mouth. A metal punch or even a Phillips head screwdriver will work as well.
You can certainly collect the powder and reuse it. I'd discard the balls, however.
Do not attempt to 'dig out' the powder. While it is extremely unlikely you could generate enough friction heat (450 deg C) to set off the powder, scraping it is the one way I can think of to do that, so don't chance it. Besides, you won't get nearly enough out. It's been compressed into a solid mass. You'll be surprised at how easily it comes out if you push it out the chamber mouth and how it all sticks together when compressed.
Sorry, I thought it still w/ be in powder form.
I was just going to use a paper clip, remove w/ didn't come out.
The ball and wad are a loss.
What about drowning the cycl first? Whould that be safer?
I'm a little scared; I didn't know that the charge w/ be so dangerous. I've handled guns/weapons since I w/ 6. Threw 22's, lit powder,etc. I have all respect f/ this firearm-don't take lightly. I also understand the ideal of a loaded weapon; you just can't rack the slide to remove the shell(here). I hope I didn't make a hand grenade!
I thought(being 1st time out w/ bp) that it w/ be safer to load cycld at home-controled- then out in field. I quess I made a mistake!
I trust your opinions/thoughts....
Hey, another cycl only costs $40. I can just put this as a loss...
At worst, I have a nice boxed set of display revolvers.
capkid
I was just going to use a paper clip, remove w/ didn't come out.
The ball and wad are a loss.
What about drowning the cycl first? Whould that be safer?
I'm a little scared; I didn't know that the charge w/ be so dangerous. I've handled guns/weapons since I w/ 6. Threw 22's, lit powder,etc. I have all respect f/ this firearm-don't take lightly. I also understand the ideal of a loaded weapon; you just can't rack the slide to remove the shell(here). I hope I didn't make a hand grenade!
I thought(being 1st time out w/ bp) that it w/ be safer to load cycld at home-controled- then out in field. I quess I made a mistake!
I trust your opinions/thoughts....
Hey, another cycl only costs $40. I can just put this as a loss...
At worst, I have a nice boxed set of display revolvers.
capkid
ITEM:
Black powder should NEVER, EVER be worked on with tools capable of making a spark.
Whatever you do DO NOT use a steel tool to "dig out" black powder from a steel cylinder!!! Make something out of aluminum, or brass, if you MUST do this.
You are MUCH safer drowning the powder in all the chambers with water first if you HAVE to panic this way. Think whatever you're doing through FIRST.
Seriously, you're spooked here & mainly without good reason. Put it somewhere safe & take it to a safe place & fire it to unload it; it really is the safest way to be smart. It will absolutely NOT just "GO OFF" for no reason, all you need to do is isolate it from sparks & hard impacts & it'll be quite safe till you go to the range with it.
Black powder should NEVER, EVER be worked on with tools capable of making a spark.
Whatever you do DO NOT use a steel tool to "dig out" black powder from a steel cylinder!!! Make something out of aluminum, or brass, if you MUST do this.
You are MUCH safer drowning the powder in all the chambers with water first if you HAVE to panic this way. Think whatever you're doing through FIRST.
Seriously, you're spooked here & mainly without good reason. Put it somewhere safe & take it to a safe place & fire it to unload it; it really is the safest way to be smart. It will absolutely NOT just "GO OFF" for no reason, all you need to do is isolate it from sparks & hard impacts & it'll be quite safe till you go to the range with it.