Help identifying Mod 98

brasscollector

New member
Looking to find a replacement trigger guard/bottom metal for this mauser I have. Older 30-06 mauser mod 98. Pretty sure this is a commercial action from the 50's/60's (WAG). Sort of weird texturing on the front ring under the scope base. It had "Mod 98" just before the thumb notch on the left side of the receiver. Has a weird little stamped mark on the right of the ring. There appears to be a 4 digit serial number right behind the recoil lug with a space and two more digits. Other than that the trigger arrangement seems rather odd, pretty sure I can put my Timney sportsman right in place of that.
 

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Many military receivers were built into commercial sporters after WWII.

Military receivers have the stripper clip guide and thumb cut like yours does.

You need to do some measuring to determine what you have.

The standard length 98 receiver is about 8.75" long with screw holes which are about 7.8" center to center. Most Mausers ever made have standard length receivers.

The intermediate length 98 receiver is about 8.5" long with screw holes which are about 7.6" center to center. There were a lot of Czech M24 and Yugoslav M48 intermediate actions imported over the past 15 years.

The magnum length 98 receiver is about 9.2" long. These are kind of rare.
 
It is a military model 98, the "Model 98" and the stippling on top where the crest would be show that. You can buy bottom metal for commercial 98s that will fit it. Measure the distance center to center between the guard screws (action screws) so you know which one to get.
Hinged commercial magazine and floorplate- http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/881550.htm#881550D

Military magazine/floorplates- http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Mauser-33384/Rifles-37349/98-39207/TriggerGuards-43357.htm
 
Yours has had the stripper clip hump ground off, which is a good thing on a sporter. The weird mark is a Waffenamt or German military acceptance mark.
 
This Mauser has been sporterized a LOT, it is on its fourth set of sights for example.

The "odd trigger arrangement" is a single set. If it is in good working order, push the trigger forward to set it, whereupon it will fire with a few ounces of pull. I guess you can discard all that and put on a Timney if you don't want to learn the management of a set trigger.

The trigger guard has been removed, the sporterizing job probably included a separate recurved shotgun type trigger guard. It would probably be easier to just put on regular bottom metal than to find or make one. I think you will have to open up the slot to clear the Timney.

Do you have the stock?
 
This measure 8-3/4" OAL and the screws are 7-7/8" C-C.
Pretty sure the Eagle/N is a Nazi era commercial (Nitro) proof.
Makes sense. This is different from the sporterized czech BRNO I have and couldn't find a good source with pictures to help me identify it.

The trigger is quite something else. IT appears it was a double trigger arrangement (a set trigger) that someone 'customized'. The rear trigger bow had been removed and the trigger was made to function off the front one only. A true hacksaw job which made me wince when I realized what was going on.. It had a shotgun style trigger guard that threaded in a hole in front of the first trigger and likely screwed into the stock just behind the rear action screw. Someone "recurved" the guard, drilled a new hole and fastened it down through the hole where the second trigger had been :eek: A fine 'deer camp repair' but nothing I want happening on my rifle.

The stock is a nylon Ramline stock which should be just fine as long as it's flimsy-ness doesn't affect accuracy. Is it worth my time to try and epoxy-bed a nylon stock?
 
It can be worth your time if done properly, I do it quite a bit.
1 reason I do is, it's a pleasure to work on stocks.
2. It's cheaper than buying a commercially pillared stockbthat needs work too, as well as bedding the action...
3. It's too cool when it all works right and groups nicely at the range, and when you tag your first animal with it.
 
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