Hawes 1851 Colt Navy barrel wedge problem

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Winchester_73

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Last night I got a Hawes 1851 Colt navy. The gun was in pieces when I got it, so I quickly put it together but its not working perfectly. Everything is fine, until I fully install the barrel wedge, then the cylinder does not rotate. It seems as if its too tight. The hand catches but I can't cock the arm. The cylinder is actually so tight that I cannot even rotate it by hand after the wedge is installed. When the wedge is partway installed, it works fine but when I tap it in (with just a wooden mallet), the gun ceases to work. I tried oiling it, but nothing has helped. How can this be fixed? I imagine its something minor. Thanks.
 
You're driving the wedge in too deep. On a new gun it should just be flush on the side opposite the screw.
 
My Walker does this. Installed like Hawg says it functions perfectly. Others have told me this is a result of a short arbor. Perhaps some who have dealt with the problem will chime in as I have yet to perform the "fix" on mine.
 
Hawg,

I know this is definitely your neck of the woods, but I was wondering if there is any strength sacrificed by not pushing the wedge all the way in? I realized I could do that, but I thought what if it got jostled somehow, could it fall out or make the gun unsafe, such as, during holstering? Do you recommend the steps to fix this submitted by junkman01?
 
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I do recommend doing it but if the wedge is a good fit it won't fall out or move under recoil. It may loosen up over time and with repeated disassembly to the point it will have to be replaced tho.
 
On the original Colts, the wedge screw was used as a depth set for the wedge. Original Colts...I see this feature on my 1851 .36 made in 1862 but I have not seen it on the repros.
 
On the original Colts, the wedge screw was used as a depth set for the wedge. Original Colts...I see this feature on my 1851 .36 made in 1862 but I have not seen it on the repros.
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It's there but serves no purpose other than to keep the wedge from coming all the way out when removing the barrel.
 
It's important to read what I wrote - I said in the original Colts the wedge screw acted as a depth set for the wedge (key), and that is taken right from a Colt patent, not my imagination. I've gotten into peeing contests on other forums over this, which is crazy because I'm only presenting facts.
Here is the link to the patent. Read the second column, first page, starting where it says "Figures 1,3, 4 and 5 represent the key." Read down to where it says, "As the key C is to act laterally as a wedge to draw the receiver and the barrel into proper contact, it is of importance that it should be checked when forced...etc." Read the next line.
Like I said, I did not make this up. Sam Colt did.

http://www.google.com/patents?id=bNI_AAAAEBAJ&printsec=claims&zoom=4#v=onepage&q&f=true
 
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That patent is apparently describing a Paterson type revolver and not later models. The wedges and function of the screw on later models is not what is described in this reference. If you notice and read the document, Colt employed TWO retaining screws AND an adjustment screw. This system does not appear on the later models of Colt open top guns.
If you want to start the pi$$ing contest again, keep posting this OUTDATED patent.
 
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And so it goes. I post something and explain exactly what it is and what it means and someone who thinks they know more than they do, or someone who cannot comprehend what I'm saying, or what they're reading, gets their undies all bunched up and attacks me. The basis concept of a wedge screw regulating the depth of the wedge was what I was pointing to. How many times did I say original Colts?

If you want to start the pi$$ing contest again, keep posting this OUTDATED patent.
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That is funny as hell. So, what patent is not outdated? One from 1850? 1860? See how foolish that statement is?
I have an 1851 .36 made in 1862, with an oversized wedge screw head that contacts the wedge and regulates how far in I can push the wedge. It works. Sam Colt devised that method. Did it change and evolve over the years? Yes. It evolved to the point that Colt (Colt, the company) did away with wedges altogether.
I don't post things like that to start a peeing contest. I do it to move the discussion forward.
 
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OK, explain how posting an original Colt patent, filed by Sam Colt, explaining how he, the inventor of Colt firearms, approached a certain problem that might still exist today, is looking for trouble? I'd like to hear this one.
And as far as not talking about originals, how can you look at an Italian repro of an original and not make a connection to what they are repros of?
 
Pohill, you said yourself the screw doesn't serve that function on clones!
I see this feature on my 1851 .36 made in 1862, but I have not seen it on the repros.
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The screw is oversized on my Walker and would stop the pin I suppose... if I was inclined to use a framing hammer to drive it in that far.
 
The fact that it doesn't work on the repros is a manufacturing mistake or oversight of the Italians. I added a screw with an oversized head on my Pietta 1860 .44 and it worked as it should, tightening the barrel/frame connection. The wedge screw on my 3rd Generation 1861 .36 contacts the wedge and, again, does what it should.
It's a relevant issue when discussing wedges, not an issue designed to cause trouble. That accusation I do not get at all. If you read the patent and decide that it doesn't apply, or that it's outdated, fine - at least you considered it.
 
I read the patent and considered it, and you got my evaluation of it (several times now). I do not believe Colt ever produced ANY wedges as the patent from 1839 depicts. That's what makes it outdated and irrelevant to todays Colt pattern C&B revolvers.
 
Back to the original question. Your problem is a short arbor as you noted. The fix is relatively simple. I would do it and then adjust the width of the wedge to give a firm fit.
 
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