Having Major Issues Properly Seating .223 Primers in Brass

A drill bit that chamfers for wood screws does a good job on brass to chamfer the rim, I use one, I also have an RCBS die that removes the crimp, works also.
As I understand the OP, he can get the primer in, just not flush. The pocket has a radius in the corners that is not as deep as the pocket, that causes the primer edge to touch before the primer is set deep enough. My primer pocket depth reamer cuts the edge to .121", the CCI primers that I use are .123", therefore I set the primer to minus .003 below rim to get the proper "set" and below rim for safety. The reamer really doesn't make the pocket deeper, just removes the radius of the corners.
 
Seems to me you have almost all you need but lack the depth correction.

Lets see, you swage to fix the diameter but what to do about depth.
Ahhh yes, the primer pocket uniformer to set spec depth to the primer pocket (not to be confused with a cleaner.)
My own process is simple and works on ALL cases regardless of primer crimps or not.

Swage (I do use the dillon)

Uniform (I use the sinclair primer pocket uniformer)

Prime (I use the sinclair primer, it is one at a time and time consuming to get set up but stays where it is set and does the job well.)

Oh yes when the sinclair primer is set properly, you can control the depth below case flush to a thousandth of an inch (Not all hand primers can be set this accurate.)

I also will add a quick check primer tool everyone should use. The glass plate from a small picture frame is perfect for placing primed cases on.

Any thing that wobbles if properly primed will tend to have some correctible deformity in the brass base itself.

I am not recommending sinclair as the only brand, just the one I use. Others make these things and they all look to be well made for their design purpose.
 
highrolls said:
Seems to me you have almost all you need but lack the depth correction.

Lets see, you swage to fix the diameter but what to do about depth.
Ahhh yes, the primer pocket uniformer to set spec depth to the primer pocket (not to be confused with a cleaner.)
My own process is simple and works on ALL cases regardless of primer crimps or not.

Swage (I do use the dillon)

Uniform (I use the sinclair primer pocket uniformer)

Prime (I use the sinclair primer, it is one at a time and time consuming to get set up but stays where it is set and does the job well.)

Oh yes when the sinclair primer is set properly, you can control the depth below case flush to a thousandth of an inch (Not all hand primers can be set this accurate.)

I also will add a quick check primer tool everyone should use. The glass plate from a small picture frame is perfect for placing primed cases on.

Any thing that wobbles if properly primed will tend to have some correctible deformity in the brass base itself.

I am not recommending sinclair as the only brand, just the one I use. Others make these things and they all look to be well made for their design purpose.
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I have tried everything and I have best luck with champhering tool.
 
Shadow9mm said:
I had one of those. Worked great but was a PITA to use. Cases always got stuck. I got a cutter and called it good.

Either way. What is being described is the primer not wanting to fully seat. At that point your way past the crimp issues.
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HI Shadow. That RCBS can get stuck, what I do is barely spray it with Hornady ONE SHOT lube every 5-10 cases, then its smooth. The main thing with it is having a sturdy bench that doesn't flex or move, then its a lot easier.
 
9MMand223only said:
HI Shadow. That RCBS can get stuck, what I do is barely spray it with Hornady ONE SHOT lube every 5-10 cases, then its smooth. The main thing with it is having a sturdy bench that doesn't flex or move, then its a lot easier.
Click to expand...
I tried case lube, it helped a little. But applying it every 10rnds just made it more work.

I don't have a dedicated reloading bench. My press is mounted to a piece of wood and I use wood working clamp to mount to my kitchen table. Works fine for 99% of my needs. Maybe some day I'll have a dedicated reloading area. But for now it's working.

Either way, cutting the crimp out is quick and easy.
 
HiBC said:
This is the sort of VLD chamfering tool I suggested. Sinclair makes a carbide one.

I suggest finding one you can hold in your hand and take a sample of decapped brass with you just to verify the tip diameter will enter the pocket and cut.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...fering/vld-chamfer-reamer-tool-prod44718.aspx
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Will work, but I prefer the rcbs tool. No worrying about removing too much material. Just push it in till it bottoms out.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012921650
 
I've had this issue with NATO spec brass before , with both 5.56 and 9mm . For me it had nothing to do with the crimp , it was simply the pocket was not deep enough . I could get them to seat barely flush but it was hard to get there and they were pretty much flattened . I was basically crushing them into place .

When I say crushing I mean it , these are not them but an example of what my gorilla hands can do lol . Smashing the 5.56 primers to flush were not impossible but did take a bit more effort then I thought safe .

LGZW77.jpg


Luckily I'm a reloading tool snob :D and had primer pocket uniformers which did the job . I cut the primer pockets deeper by about another .003 and the primers seated just fine after that with out the flattening .
 
've had this issue with NATO spec brass before , with both 5.56 and 9mm . For me it had nothing to do with the crimp , it was simply the pocket was not deep enough . I could get them to seat barely flush but it was hard to get there and they were pretty much flattened . I was basically crushing them into place .
Click to expand...

With nearly all of the rejects in the foreground, the primer was flipped .
You were trying to put the primer in sideways.

I suggest re-evaluating root cause,conclusions,and remedies. Perhaps your auto primer feed needs adjustment. Or you primer punch and cup. Primer pocket to priming punch/cup alignment,etc.

I do not doubt using the pocket uniformer can be good practice. I don't think it would solve the specific problem you show.
 
HiBC,

I think you missed the first sentence in his second paragraph where he explains those are not the cases he is talking about; just an example of how hard he can squeeze a priming tool handle.
 
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