Have you had a revolver refinished by Smith and Wesson?

A

Arkhog

New member
I recently picked up a Model 10-5 with a 4 inch tapered barrel at a local show. The gun was rusty. I knew that when I bought it. I felt like I got a good deal because it locked up tight with no end shake or cylinder play. The b/c gap is insanely tight at .002. It shoots to the point of aim with 158 grain LRN ammo. In short, the gun is a keeper.

Many of you will be of the opinion that having a Model 10 refinished for cosmetic reasons would be cost ineffective. True. But, I don't intend to sell it. Others would say that a reblue would decrease the value. Model 10's were made by the millions. They will never be a holy grail high value gun anyway.

I want this gun to look as good as it performs. Smith offers refinishing services. If you have had a Smith and Wesson revolver refinished by the factory I would like to read your experience here. Thanks to all.
 
I have a nickel pre-Model 10 from 1929 or so that has some rust pitting in the finish. It shoots great, and was passed down from my grandfather to my father and then to me. When I called S&W to see about a refinish, they said that they wouldn't do it (the age of the gun, perhaps?), but they said that they send their work to Dave Chicoine (dave@oldwestgunsmith.com).

A strip and refinish in nickel would run close to $1000 if I'm remembering our conversation correctly, but Dave did say that bluing was significantly cheaper.
 
I sent my 27-2 back to be re-nickeled. Nickel as in finished look really hasn't changed so I felt having refinished, esp when it was nickel to begin with, was not a big deal.

The story starts off with with me being thrilled to get a 27-2 6 in original nickel for $550 shipped on gunbroker. Well unfortunately, it was not what I had expected. The nickel was cloudy, as if someone buffed it but didn't get the polish off. Aside from that, there was a thumbprint size wear mark on the cylinder. Rather than send it back, I asked the seller for a partial refund, which ended up being $100 to get me into the gun for $450. I did that knowing I wanted to have it redone. I sent it in, and 8 to 10 weeks or so later it came back beautiful. It was just over $300 plus I had to pay to ship it. However, I opted for the re-case hardening on the trigger and hammer because the trigger had some wore off. This was I was displeased with, with it coming back not as rich or full. A lighter case hardening.

Overall I am happy and would send them another gun. I would probably not have the case hardening done over again unless I had to.

Here are before photos:

note the dull finish and bare steel wear mark to the cylinder. The gun was really tight but holstered a lot per the dealer which I believe. He stated than old man had it, that carried it frequently in a holster.

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The after photos:

Nickel is just so damn hard to photograph. Its beautiful now although I wish I kept the original case hardening to the trigger and hammer.

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I own two N-Frame Smiths that were factory re-finished & both are gorgeous.
One is a 1980s 29-5, the other is a 1952 pre-Model 27.

Denis
 
I just called S&W about having my Model 27 reblued (high polish rebluing). They said it would be $250 + $14 shipping.

Normally I do my own bluing but not for this puppy, I want the high polish S&W bluing. I think the gun deserves it.
 
It's worth every penny.
Mine look better than new.

I wouldn't spend the money on a Model 10, personally, but that's an individual choice.
I'm just saying the factory can return it in beautiful shape.
Denis
 
You're right about the value not being there on that gun ...long term...especially.

But if you really want to keep it ...and yes, most of them shoot very well ( I have a pre-model 10 Victory model, that had a parkerized finish on it that has almost all worn off...from holster wear - my uncle was a deputy sheriff and carried it for years - and now its mine) ....made in the mid 40's after the war - and he bought it new ......I'd try and find someone locally that could do the work ...and put some kind of a high tech coating on it maybe....( have the rust and pitting taken care of ) ..maybe spend up to $ 350 or so on it...but you have to know, there are a lot more model 10's out there for sale ...that are in better condition ...for way under $ 500 too...
 
I plan on eventually having my M28 refinished and sending it to S&W is the route I'm leaning most heavily towards. While refinishing by anyone will reduce the collector value of a firearm, this is not an issue for my M28 as I have no plans to ever sell it. The M28 is not a particularly rare or collectable model and, frankly, the sentimental value of this gun (my first and favorite revolver) is far greater than its monetary value could ever be.

It is worthy of mention that, if you're going to have a revolver reblued, S&W cannot match the same color as their vintage revolvers because the EPA doesn't like the older chemicals. While the newer bluing is a nice, attractive finish, it will look more black than blue due to the different chemicals used.

Originally posted by Winchester 73
Nickel is just so damn hard to photograph.
Click to expand...

While it is more difficult than a dark finish like blue or parkerizing or even a brushed or bead-blasted stainless, there are a few tricks that can make photos of a nickel gun come out better. First, you need to turn the flash off on your camera as it produces an undesirable amount of glare. Second, nickel, stainless, and other light-colored finishes look best when photographed against a dark background. Finally, to make your picture come out best, a good two-point lighting system, if not a three-point system, should be used.

This picture was taken using a Cannon digital camera and two cheap desk lamps for a lighting system. For a third lighting point, the background was set close to a white wall (not visible in the photo) which helps to reflect light from the desk lamps.

Nickgunphotos003.jpg
 
Great posts with pics

Thanks for the response guys! Winchester 73, your post with before and after pics was great.

Here, in central Arkansas, I have had a tough time finding a gun that meets all of my criteria with a great finish. There always seems to be an issue with every gun that I pick up at the local shows. This time I chose one on pure mechanical merits only.

In other words, I bought this 10-5 knowing that I would refinish it. You know what they say, "something is worth what someone is willing to pay". It seems that I am willing to pay for this one.

I have considered having this blued revolver nickel plated. I am not sure how that would come out.
 
a long, long time ago

I was tasked with getting a number of Model 10's and 15's refinished, plumbed and equipped with early tritium night sigts. The refinishing and tune up was all done by Smith, the sights were from another vendor.

They came back looking absolutely great, and the actions were as smooth as frog snot. Seems like all the work, sights included was done for around $150 bucks.

...I can still remember
 
A good many years ago, I sent a well used K-22 back to S&W to replace the (frame mounted) firing pin. They offered to reblue it for $17 (shows how long ago that was!!). What they did was to strip the frame and replace everything, including the barrel and cylinder, plus do a reblue that not many folks could tell from the original. The total cost was .... $17.

Winchester 73, I wonder if they really re-case hardened that trigger and hammer. More likely they replaced them. I know I wouldn't complain about that job - no one else could have done what they did.

Jim
 
I rescued this model 19 that my son in law picked up. When he showed it to me, the action was nice and smooth but the finish and the sights were really bad. After three hours in a parts cleaner and a dental pick to clean the gunk out of it the action was real sweet but the cylinder would stick when you pushed the release.
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Sent it back to S&W for a refinish and repair and it came back looking awesome.
Action is great and no more sticking. High polish looks great, you would never know it was rusted and pitted.
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The pics don't do it justice. It really looks great.
 
Winchester 73: A really nice refinish-and I actually think the case-hardening job looks pretty darn good too. It should be said that, in terms of its worth to a collector, I suppose any finish other than the original will diminish a firearm's intrinsic value. But a factory refinish will pose the least negative effect; in fact, S.P. Fjestad, author and publisher of the Blue Book of Gun Values, when stressing the importance of maintaining the original finish of a collectable firearm, offered this caveat, "...if anyone other than the factory has refinished the gun, its value as a collector's item has been diminished..." (emphasis mine).
 
Winchester 73: A really nice refinish-and I actually think the case-hardening job looks pretty darn good too. It should be said that, in terms of its worth to a collector, I suppose any finish other than the original will diminish a firearm's intrinsic value. But a factory refinish will pose the least negative effect
Click to expand...

I agree overall but let me let you and everyone in on a secret: because my gun was for 1 originally nickel, and 2 without any pitting or anything that required buffing, and 3 it went to the factory (a professional refinisher) and 4 because nickel's look hasn't changed through the years, and last 5, because S&W no longer marks guns that went back to the factory, no one could ever tell my gun was refinished unless I told them. This was one of the big reasons I had the gun re-nickeled.

Not that I would be dishonest and claim original finish, but on the other hand, if its impossible to tell the difference, its a perfect restoration and should have almost no effect on the value, in my opinion. Usually refinishes are somewhat obvious and DIFFERENT from factory original (often ugly, or poorly done), in this case, its not.
 
D-Ric - you're a braver man than I am - to go through all that and then lay the refinished gun on a pile of rocks to take a picture ;)
 
Model 10 Leaving Tomorrow

Nice pics D-Ric902.

My model 10 will be FedExed to Smith and Wesson tomorrow. I will ask them to do the standard polish and blue. I think a bright polish on a 50 year-old model 10-5 would look strange.
 
Well, you guys have convinced me...I'm going to have my much carried Model 36 with its 3" bbl refinished. The right side is scratched from my over zealous use of a weed wacker while carrying in a belt hoster...(for got about the spark and exhaust shield).

I suspected that Smith did good work on refinishing, but have never seen one that was for real from the factory.

Son #2, now in Afghanistan, once carried his Model 29 for a full day's hunting in heavy rain...and in a leather holster of dubious quality...speckled in rust was the result...he's been heart-sick ever since...I'll get his done as well...pending his approval. Thanks for the great pics.
Rod
 
I note the different grips and assume the poster changed them. AFAIK, S&W will not refinish or replace the customer's grips unless asked to and can do so, as they no longer have the older styles.

Jim
 
S&W did an outstanding job on a 3 1/2 in model 27 I picked up from a pawn shop. That gun probably looked better than it did when it was brand new. When I sold it and told the buyer it was refinished at S&W he didn't seen concered in the least. The gun was an excellent shooter.
 
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