Has anyone else tried slick 50 as a gun lube?

Not sure why people would mess around with trying car lubes and other stuff when there are products specifically made for handguns off the shelf. There is no reason to risk damaging a gun or causing reliability issues with a guess. It's like trying to put gun oil in your car during the next oil change. It just does not make sense to me. CLP was the only lube allowed to touch a weapon while I was in the Marines infantry. It worked and that is still what I use. Maybe there is something better out there now with newer technology, but I won't be trying Slick 50 or Duralube to find out.
 
I spent a few years in the auto additive & lubrication business as a Rep for Wynns. In the industry it was common knowledge that Slick 50 just didn't do what they touted it did. That is why you don't see the OEM dealers using it in their cars or allowing their dealers to add it to oil in their service depts. Wynns & BG are 2 of the biggest in that industry & work closely with the car manufacturers. Wynns actually manufactured a kit for Chrysler under the Mopar brand. I found a kit in my garage last month that I evidently misplaced.

The company that manufactures Slick50 was bought out by Pennzoil a few years back, so I would suspect that they made some formula changes to get Slick50 to a point where it did something, but I wouldn't use a product on my gun that was supposed to lubricate a car, when it doesn't even do that very well. I would guess that the oil base is the only thing that is actually lubricating your gun & that is just 30weight oil. Just saying...
 
Here's how I stumbled on Slick 50 wheel bearing grease. I was building a lot of custom paintball stuff, and a friend of mine happened to be a Ford mechanic. He showed me some light blue grease Ford sold for aluminum and plastic window power tracks- which worked surprisingly well.

I used all of the sample he had given me, and when I asked about another -ahem- "sample", he told me it was the same product as Slick 50. I bought a tube of the Slick 50 and used it, and it worked really well, and he was right- same stuff, just a different color.

I've used a dab on sears on race guns, paintball gun triggers, and servo gears on R/C planes.

No idea on the engine oil as I've never used it.
 
I discovered the slick 50 one lube when i was lubing my motorcyce chain with it. Some over sprayed onto the brake rotor and i quickly wiped it off wnad cleaned it with some solvent. The slick 50 caused my brakes to be " anti-lock" for a month. That told me it was some dang good stuff! That's why I use it on my guns.
 
I know there have been issues with getting gun oil on wood hardware (like the old 3-in-1 Oil my mom used in her sewing maching).

Does the same issue exist with getting CLP on wood hardware?
 
Just one comment on the toxic potential of teflon, it's stable up to around 280C. Gun solder melts at 260C, so you're very unlikely to heat your teflon product to decomposition temperature.
 
I would prefer to use sperm oil, but that is difficult to find these days.

An economical alternative is a 3 to 1 mix of canola oil and Dexron ATF.

Most any oil will serve to lube a firearm. Only well into the 20th century did we have any fancy gun oils, though sperm oil was an excellent lubricant.

Animal and vegetable oils were used for centuries before mineral oils came on the scene. The old ways still work.
 
I did a frictional analysis once on two rifles.
It was a University project when I was working on a Masters degree. I used several oils and polishing compounds. One used Slick 50 and and J.B. bore paste, the other rifle was Kroil oil and Brasso. In this finite test the Brasso and the Kroil came out ahead. They helped in reducing the frictional coefficient. Several years later when breaking in barrels was just coming into vogue I thought I would try it on a 22-250 sheeting 50 rounds cleaning between shots then swabbing a mop with slick 50 and Brasso. it still shoots under 1/2 " :D

Edward5759
 
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