Hard chambering on new custom rifle
- Thread starter merbeau
- Start date
Re Measured
I measured the old bolt and indeed it is 0.6995 and the new bolt is 0.7000. I have included a couple of pictures showing the old bolt and the new bolt - from the picture you can see the old bolt has a lot of war on the lug where as the new one does not.
If you are looking at the rifle from the stock end (i.e., recoil pad) the lug slightly catches on the right hand side of the receiver. The new bolt is fluted whereas the old one was not but it is not catching on the fluted part. I also checked to make sure the mounting screws for the rear scope base are not protruding through which they are not.
I measured the old bolt and indeed it is 0.6995 and the new bolt is 0.7000. I have included a couple of pictures showing the old bolt and the new bolt - from the picture you can see the old bolt has a lot of war on the lug where as the new one does not.
If you are looking at the rifle from the stock end (i.e., recoil pad) the lug slightly catches on the right hand side of the receiver. The new bolt is fluted whereas the old one was not but it is not catching on the fluted part. I also checked to make sure the mounting screws for the rear scope base are not protruding through which they are not.
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I hear that all the time.
Before you started building did you check the bolt for fit before building? Then there are the two locking lugs, and another safety type at the rear of the bolt, did you check for clearance in front of the bolt handle between the rear receiver and bolt handle?
Then there is that thing about checking a bolt and its effect on changing the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face. I have at least 35 03 Springfield type bolts, it is not necessary for me to check the fit of each bolt for its effect on the length of the chamber. Everyone knows the bolt will close on a head space gage? Problem, by how much?
It is not likely I will have a bolt that needs added clearance but if I did I would lap without hesitation and I would get the maximum amount of contact between the lugs and contact/seating surface.
F. Guffey
I hear that all the time.
Before you started building did you check the bolt for fit before building? Then there are the two locking lugs, and another safety type at the rear of the bolt, did you check for clearance in front of the bolt handle between the rear receiver and bolt handle?
Then there is that thing about checking a bolt and its effect on changing the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face. I have at least 35 03 Springfield type bolts, it is not necessary for me to check the fit of each bolt for its effect on the length of the chamber. Everyone knows the bolt will close on a head space gage? Problem, by how much?
It is not likely I will have a bolt that needs added clearance but if I did I would lap without hesitation and I would get the maximum amount of contact between the lugs and contact/seating surface.
F. Guffey
One more photo
The bolt was ordered from PTG and dropped shipped to the smith who did the work. A new firing pin, spring and housing were also ordered. The smith assembled the bolt inserted it into the rifle and test fired it after headspacing, etc. with a Remington factory load. He reported to me the bolt was tight but that PTG makes extremely accurate milled equipment. If they say 0.7000 it is exactly that dimension. I seriously doubt he tried multiple rounds from the magazine.
I have attached another photo of the bolt at the back of the receiver with the rifle held at a 75 degree angle. Kind of illustrates what I said in my previous reply.
The bolt was ordered from PTG and dropped shipped to the smith who did the work. A new firing pin, spring and housing were also ordered. The smith assembled the bolt inserted it into the rifle and test fired it after headspacing, etc. with a Remington factory load. He reported to me the bolt was tight but that PTG makes extremely accurate milled equipment. If they say 0.7000 it is exactly that dimension. I seriously doubt he tried multiple rounds from the magazine.
I have attached another photo of the bolt at the back of the receiver with the rifle held at a 75 degree angle. Kind of illustrates what I said in my previous reply.
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To F Guffy
What the hell kind of comment is that? First time in my postings on this and other gun blogs being insulted. Perhaps you have interpreted that I built the rifle myself, I did not. It was built by a well known gunsmith who does this thing for a living and my instructions where to use the Remington 700 LA receiver to be rebarreled to 6.5x55 Swede (using a Douglas premium barrel), reblue the reciever, blue print the action, and install new bolt with proper headspace.
Since I did not state in my instructions to test fire the rifle with multiple rounds I am assuming he did not. So this problem would not have been noticed. My first custom build and as they say live and learn.
The completed project was sent back to me where I installed the rebarreled action into a Bobby Hart LRT stock with aluminum block, along with a new stainless Oberndorf floor plate and magazine follower and spring.
I certainly do not know what specs the smith used nor would I suspect most people who have firearms built would have access to. And this problem has nothing to do with the chamber. All the pictures and descriptions are from the back end of the receiver. I was looking for some advice of what the problem may be and perhaps some fairly easy solution like lapping the lugs, etc.
It is obvious all that I am getting from people like you are nasty comments. Time to just take the rifle to a local smith and pay to have the problem fixed. Spending money is better than insults.
What the hell kind of comment is that? First time in my postings on this and other gun blogs being insulted. Perhaps you have interpreted that I built the rifle myself, I did not. It was built by a well known gunsmith who does this thing for a living and my instructions where to use the Remington 700 LA receiver to be rebarreled to 6.5x55 Swede (using a Douglas premium barrel), reblue the reciever, blue print the action, and install new bolt with proper headspace.
Since I did not state in my instructions to test fire the rifle with multiple rounds I am assuming he did not. So this problem would not have been noticed. My first custom build and as they say live and learn.
The completed project was sent back to me where I installed the rebarreled action into a Bobby Hart LRT stock with aluminum block, along with a new stainless Oberndorf floor plate and magazine follower and spring.
I certainly do not know what specs the smith used nor would I suspect most people who have firearms built would have access to. And this problem has nothing to do with the chamber. All the pictures and descriptions are from the back end of the receiver. I was looking for some advice of what the problem may be and perhaps some fairly easy solution like lapping the lugs, etc.
It is obvious all that I am getting from people like you are nasty comments. Time to just take the rifle to a local smith and pay to have the problem fixed. Spending money is better than insults.
merbeau, forgive. I would not finish with lapping the lugs, I would start with lapping the lugs. I ask if you (or anyone) check the fit between the receiver and bolt. the answer would be yes and or no. AND! It is easier to lap without the barrel. It is possible to make a tool that screws into the receiver to aid in lapping.
Some make tomato stakes out of old worn out barrels, to me the barrel is like a tree, The Giving Tree. One day I was in the neighborhood, the question came up, "Where do you live? I answered the question and then someone replied with, OH! You are the one with the old, ugly dead tree in the front yard". I then explained 'no', I am the one that raises wood peckers in an old dead tree in the front yard.
F. Guffey