Handloading .38/.357

Great Example of Internet BS

This thread is the most perfect example of how so much of the crappola you read, even in these forums, is just that - total crappola. And it REALLY illustrates why any new reloader MUST have good manuals and READ them; otherwise, you have absolutely no way to see the crappola for what it is.

Some (a LOT) of what you get posted is just personal opinion - not fact at all. Each person is totally allowed to have any opinion they desire, and to share it freely. If they give you reasons behind their opinion, you are on the way to being able to decide if you want to share that opinion or laugh at it - your choice.

My OPINION is that RCBS makes excellent equipment, but it is GENERALLY NOT any better than other name brands. I actually think Lee dies are much better, especially for straight-walled cases. Several reasons: the "unbreakable" decapping pin, the powder-thru expander and the floating bullet seating plug.

A cast-iron "O" press made by RCBS (e.g. Rock Chucker) is absolutely no better than the same type of press from Lee, Lyman or others, unless there is something about the way one handles spent primers that you like better than the others. I would never buy an aluminum press or "C" press from any brand.

RCBS DOES generally have better warranty and customer service than any other brand. That is worth something - you decide how much.

Finally, in my opinion, any case tumbler/cleaner (other than a simple rag) is the absolute LAST thing you should waste any money on - you do NOT need it.

And then there are the real facts, and when some bonehead blows the facts and feeds you wrong information, well, depending on the specifics of the issue, that can actually be dangerous. You MUST know enough to see where some "fact" you read in a forum might just be wrong, and know where to go to research it for yourself.

Here is a FACT about .38/.357 dies (and .44 Spl/.44 Mag, etc.): Any die set made for the shorter case (the .38 Spl) WILL work 100% perfectly to load the longer magnum calibers too, no matter how they are labeled. No spacer is ever needed to compensate for the longer caliber, you simply have to read the instructions and adjust the dies correctly! The resizer die is almost always the EXACT same part number as the resizer in the magnum sets, and it ABSOLUTELY resizes the shorter case EXACTLY like the longer case. Anyone who understands that the resizing is done by the little carbide ring at the bottom of the die would know that.

Now the other related FACT is that if you have a die set labeled ONLY for the magnum or longer caliber (.357, .44, .454 Casull, etc), then the expander die and the bullet seating die probably CANNOT be used to load any caliber with a shorter case. In the case of the expander, they die body may be too long for the expander plug to properly reach the case mouth (but probably not). The real issue is that the crimping ledge inside the bullet seat/crimp die will not go far enough down to touch the case mouth.

Many manufacturers only sell one set of dies for these related calibers, and they are labeled as such. But others, such as Lee, DO still sell dies made ONLY for the magnum calibers. So it pays for you to actually do some research on the manufacturer's web site before spending you money.
 
"...really need a tumbler cleaner..." Nope, but you need a way of cleaning your brass. That can be a tumbler, a vibrating machine, wet cleaning(dry 'em on a cookie sheet in your oven set at warm for 15 minutes.)or even Mauser69's simple rag and a bit of regular firearm cleaning solvent.
Lot more options out there these days. However, a tumbler is likely the easiest to come by for reasonable money. Brass absolutely does not need to be shiney. Just clean.
Haven't loaded .38 Special in .38 Special cases for eons myself(.38 Special data in .357 cases only for 35 + years or so.), but the die set I bought long, long ago was a .38/.357 set. Redding or RCBS, forget which. Anyway, it came with the steel spacer(washer with a big hole). Don't know if die sets even come with a spacer any more.
Buying used kit isn't a bad thing, but if you opt for used buy only RCBS. Their warrantee is on the kit, not who bought it new. Have any issues and they'll fix it with a phone call or e-mail. That applies to Dillon kit as well. Rest of 'em it seems to depend on who you talk to at their customer service. Written warrantees from all but RCBS do not cover used kit.
And read your manual.
 
Well, I had a reply all set up but then I read Mauser 69's post. Can't add much to that. My suggestion is to get a copy of The ABCs of Reloading, which will explain the "how to" for reloading and what the equipment is needed. Also describes types of tooling, like dies and types of crimps. Add a Lyman's 50th Edition Reloading Handbook, for the "how to" section along with load data.

I reloaded 12 years before I got a tumbler, half outta curiosity. I merely wiped each case with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it (first step for reloading; visual inspection of brass to be reloaded). I had no scratched dies and yep, I could find any defects, and shiny brass does not shoot nor reload any better. IMO, tumbling brass is 90% cosmetic. If I wanted some BBQ ammo, I'd polish the cases on a mandrel chucked into a drill...

When asking about reloading equipment 99.9% of the answers will be opinion only, and most reloaders are pretty opinionated. A single stage reloading press is a very simple machine and I don't know of any of the major manufacturers making a "bad" press (but beware of Smart Reloader stuff).
 
Is a tumbler an absolute necessity? NO.

But take some untumbled brass cases and run them through a carbide resizing die and then follow up with cases that have been tumbled and you will find that the effort required to resize the cases is dramatically reduced.

A tumbler and media is just not that big an expense. I wouldn't be without them.
 
No need to actually buy a tumbler, there's a really big one in your laundry room.
The clothes washing machine.
For years I used ours.
With up to 1,000 cases in a mesh bag and the washer filled with throw rugs, range clothes and such in a solution of good detergent with vinegar or lemon juice.
The cases kind of act as their own tumbling media.
Dry the cases in the oven at 100 degrees and you have very clean and surprisingly shiny brass.
 
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