Hammerless vs exposed hammer snubs?

Be sure to practice drawing that way laying on the ground, being kicked in the head...now, remember to cover the hammer with your thumb as you draw. Sure...you will be alright.
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No need to mince words, Hermit, tell us how you REALLY feel.

I can't imagine a circumstance in which I would carry a snub-nosed revolver and need the ability to take a careful, precise, single-action shot. But my inability to imagine it doesn't mean one won't exist. I'd PROBABLY want one with a shrouded hammer, or one to which a hammer shroud could be fitted.

I know that comparing snubbies to auto pistols is an apples & oranges thing (actually, more like tangerines & grapefruits), but aren't exposed-hammer autos somewhat prone to the same hazard? How is it circumvented with them?
 
I would take a bobbed hammer over a hammerless. It allows you SA and DA where hammerless do not. Bobbed have the same advantage as a hammerless and not the disadvantage of being DA only.
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Some of the factory bobbed hammers (my Taurus M85 for example, cannot be cocked in single action) do not have a single-action notch.
 
Then I guess careful checking of the piece before buying it, or affixing a hammer shroud to one that most certainly DOES have a single-action notch on the sear would be a wise precaution.
 
If you have a small J-Frame for potential pocket carry, would you prefer an exposed hammer or no?
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Snag free. Think S&W Centennial. Not a thing to inhibit a fast draw, nor firing through the coat pocket (or bed spread if something happens when asleep.)

With practice you can learn to shoot DAO quite well.

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These two S&W Centennials, one in .38 spl, and the other in .357 Magnum, are excellent choices. Of course.. I chose both!

Deaf
 
Ah, a traditionalist who calls them by the fine old name instead of a flavorless model number.

Do they still make a steel framed .38? All I see is Airweights.
 
I conceal carry a a 38 snubby, no hammer, and wouldn't have it any other way. I didn't buy it for a paper target bullseye gun, so DAO is the only way I'd be shooting it anyways.

As for double action shooting accurracy, its simply a matter of learning to squeeze instead of pull, with a longer follow through.
 
I didn't read the whole thread, don't shoot me.

Answer to OP:

Concealed hammer. For a lightweight self defense conceal carry revolver there is absolutely no need for an exposed hammer. If you're tempted to shoot single action at the range, don't give in to temptation. Yes, shooting single action is easier, but the whole point of a defense revolver is to be shot in double action only. Training yourself to shoot single action could mess you up when you really need to use it.

So if you're not going to train shooting it single action, you're not going to using single action if you need to use the revolver in a defense situation, and you want to conceal carry without the concern of getting the hammer snagged on your apparel, the choice is clear.

If we are talking about larger revolvers, that's another story because they have more utility than a snub nose that weighs less than 15oz.
 
Yes, I know they beefed up most if not all the all-steel J frames to .357.
I hurried down and bought the last straight .38 640 in captivity when I heard about the change. I just hoped they were still doing a few like it.
 
I would take a bobbed hammer over a hammerless. It allows you SA and DA where hammerless do not. Bobbed have the same advantage as a hammerless and not the disadvantage of being DA only. End quote...

This is where the S&W 49/649 shines. tom. ;)
 
I just hoped they were still doing a few like it.
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Not really. Hence I have TWO 640 .38 Spl. revolvers. One that sleeps in the safe (along with a 638 Bodyguard) and the one in the photo, which was my first CHL handgun and I still carry it in the summer!

I added the red insert front sight and the Eagle Secret Service stocks.

Deaf
 
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