Gunsmithing vs Johnsmithing

However, I'd have to opine that many of us whodontwritelikethis are competent to use a Dremel for polishing, etc.
Click to expand...

My point is now made. Folks dont know their limitations.

Polish away, we are here to fixy for you not if, but when, ya screw up

WildeveryoneisanexpertAlaska ™
 
While I'm thinking about it. If you need to remove a broken screw a Dremel tool with a diamond burr is a good way to get a center for your bit.
 
I spent 25 years as a machinist and know how to make all kinds of stuff using anything from a jewelers lathe, up to massive CNC horizontal boring mills and everything in between…. well, almost everything. So while I know how to use power tools, I’m not a gunsmith; not by a long shot!

Understanding the subtle interactions of the internal mechanisms for a wide variety guns, is in my mind at least as important as being able to remove exactly 2 microns of material from a trigger sear or some such. I hold good gunsmiths in very high regard indeed.

I plan to play around with some guns when I retire and while I might know machining pretty well, I’ll probably have to settle for being a bubbasmith.:eek:
 
If you need to remove a broken screw a Dremel tool with a diamond burr is a good way to get a center for your bit.
Click to expand...

Especially if you hold the dremel in one hand and the gun in the other:eek:

WildyikesAlaska ™
 
Especially if you hold the dremel in one hand and the gun in the other
Click to expand...

It's more challenging if you hold the gun between your legs and the Dremel in your teeth. I usually do it during Yoga exercise.
 
The guy I worked for swore it was a 1) german goiter if he was lapping his gut over the work as a third hand, or 2) a japanese toe-vise if he was using his feet...
 
Every "gunsmith" I have known, albeit not that many, started as a "johnsmith". ie; no formal training except the school of hard knocks. I dare say there was a day when there wern't no school at all fer smittin'. Some of the best "old fart" gunsmiths I have known/met, started in their garage/spareroom/basement etc...

Anyone know which "gunsmith" school Fred Smith of Bullberry Barrel Works went to when he was getting started? I hold his smith'in abilities in quite high regard, I do say!
 
Dremel tools have ruined a LOT of guns - but I've used one quite a bit without ever ruining anything. The key is to know the difference between a GRINDING bit and a POLISHING bit. I've used the abrasive-impregnated rubber polishing bits a lot, and felt wheels impregnated with Simichrome are VERY useful - just don't use them when you need flat, square edges, and you'll be fine.

I'm not a trained gunsmith, but here are some of the jobs I've tackled successfully, starting from when I was in my early teenage years . . .

* Detail stripping and cleaning a gun. (Duh!)
* Polish a feed ramp.
* Filed down a too-high front sight on a 1911.
* Mounting riflescopes, including lapping the rings.
* Glass bedding a couple of rifles.
* Adjusting rifle triggers (M70, Browning Safari)
* Inletting a rifle into a new, semi-inletted stock.
* S&W revolver trigger job (after watching the Jerry Miculek video)
* Refinishing a couple of Garand stocks.
* Building a 10/22 - new barrel, new stock, new trigger components.
* Fixing a premature slide lock problem on a BHP.
* Installing a Jewell trigger on an AR15 clone.

Notice that nothing is what anyone would consider a MAJOR job - these are all things that any semi-serious shooter OUGHT to be able to do without buggering things up, and none of these require specialized tools like a receiver wrench, barrel vise, or chamber reamer.
 
I'm not going to bad mouth a Dremel tool, they have got me a lot of business.

Hey Wild, I liked that Dremel in one hand, gun in the other. I actually seen a guy do that one time, I ask him if he was planning on doing some engraving.:D Before I could say another word he did some engraving.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
Like anything, its a matter of degrees. In my hands a dremel on even a $300 rifle is bad ju ju. But I learned that polishing a $50 savage 12 gauge, using a dremel :D. With the rust "canyons" in this shotgun, there was no way that dremel was going to make it worse.

On the subject of gunsmiths, I agree that some are good and some are horrible. On the good side, not only are they good at what they do, they are a wealth of knowledge. What may be an expensive fix to you, may be a simple inexpensive fix for them. I spent hours on this site trying to figure out what was wrong with my Marlin 336 30-30. It wouldn't fire because the lever would not close. I finally gave up and gave it to a local smith who thought what the problem might be. It was from a bent lever from over 50+ years of ejecting shells! Works good as new now!

On the bad side, there have been some truely spectacular F ups. I've had my A-bolt in twice to a smith to have the barrel free floated and I still don't think its been resolved (can't do the dollar bill trick). Whats worse, I got a nice set of ugly tool marks on my barrel from lord knows what:eek:! I had to use the $20.00 cold blue trick to touch up these spots.
 
"Whats worse, I got a nice set of ugly tool marks on my barrel from lord knows what!"

Pipe wrench?
Pump pliers (AKA 'channel locks')?

Slipped in the barrel clamp?

What is worse is when the action ends up twisted from trying to get the barrel off...
 
Well, FWIW, here is a true "gunsmithing" story. A man brought in a Ruger MkI* with the long barrel. He had dropped it from a fairly good height and while the gun did not appear to be damaged, the bolt was frozen in place. The boss told him to leave it and we would see what could be done, then came back in the shop and handed me the gun. I asked if the owner had left, and the boss said he had. I picked up the gun, looked at it, slammed the side of the barrel down on the carpeted bench, worked the bolt a couple of times, then shot it to make sure the sights were still good. About a 3 second fix. I don't know what the boss charged the guy, maybe nothing, since the guy was a good customer.

Jim

*Contrary to Garry James' quiz in the Feb. G&A, the Mk I was not the Ruger standard model, it was the original target model with adjustable sights. He blew a couple of other answers too, and he made up the quiz.

JEk
 
I've done `bit of Johnnysmithing on my old war surplus rifles with good results.
Cut down barrels
Re-crowned
Built new walnut stocks
Bedded and floated barrels
Fix the trigger pull on 7.7jap
Drilled and tapped scope mounts
By useing common sense and going slow and steady, a lot of us can do a good job without causing any damage or loss of life or limb. All my rifles shoot better now than when I got them.
 
If you attach a scope with glue, do I get to keep the scope if I follow you around and pick it up?

Since No. 6 screws often shear off (I used to use 8x40 on high recoil rifles), I doubt any kind of glue/epoxy/"weld" will hold except maybe on a .22.

Jim
 
A gunsmith worth his salt knows his limitations. Knowing the work he can do and knowing who does the work that he doesn't do. Most people bring a gun in to have "fixed". If the smith doesn't do that particular repair, then he'll probably know where it can be done. Making the customer happy is what it's all about.
--The worst sin is to botch a job and trying to explain why a customer's favorite gun is now worthless!
--There are parts-changers and there are gunsmiths. There is a difference.
 
I'm not a gunsmith but I can do most of my own work. If it's beyond me I don't try, just take it to someone who can. WD-40 is good in it's place as a cleaning agent or water displacement. It's not a lube.
 
I pretty much limit myself to working on Glocks, which are relatively easy to fix and adjust. I find the Dremel to be an indispensible tool for working on Glocks if you do any modification to the receiver.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top