Gunsmith screwdriver sets...

Forster

Have a full set of Forster screw drivers. Been using for about twelve years. Use them on the GOOD screws(ones that are not already damaged or partially stripped), they are great. If the screws are already damaged, I reach for the wheeler box and use one of their bits. A lot cheaper to replace if you are going to really put some torque on one and risk breaking it. Have heard the Brownells were the ultimate screwdrivers but, never used one. Tomarrow is a new day & who knows what it will bring?:cool:
 
Most of us very casual users can get by with less than professional quality tools that will see infrequent use.
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So what you are saying with your statement is the firearms you own do not deserve to be worked on even infrequently with quality tools. Don't know about you, BUT I want quality tools when working on my firearms even if its just changing a set of grips out. Noting worse than having a gun with buggered up screw heads. Just like a member on the Beretta forum complaining about the Allen head grip screws and breaking Allen head wrench's trying to get the grip screw out (using a cheapo) Allen wrench. Low and behold when he purchased and used a quality Allen wrench the grip screw came out WITHOUT any issue. Your guns and money investment choose the tools as you wish
 
Brownells plain and simple. You will be amazed at the uses you find outside of guns for them!.

I have turned a few restorers of stuff like crank phonographs on to them and they find them invaluable for not bugggering screws as well.
 
Grinding screwdrivers isn't a dirty secret. Gunsmiths have always had to grind drivers to fit.
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I made a pretty good S&W rebound slide spring tool out of a cheap screwdriver.

Just use the right tool for the job.
 
I've had Chapman bits snap off, I've had Wheeler bits snap off. Never had a Brownell's bit snap off, but I've twisted a couple. A broken bit = a scratched gun.
 
And a screw head twisted off by a bit made from tougher material than the screw is a major drag too. Again, the bit must be ground so that all the torque is applied to the bottom of the slot where the most strength is.
 
And if the temper in the bits makes them brittle (Chapman and Wheeler), then it doesn't matter if they fit the slot or not, they'll still break. I'd much rather deal with a broken screw than scratch a customers gun.
 
If you are tightening a screw and twist the head off,either you have a poor quality/defective screw,or you have grossly overtorqued it.Why?

If you are loosening a screw and excessive torque is required,at least stop and give some penetrating oil a chance.Have a cup of coffee.Look,think,figure out why.

OK,if the screw is seized and essentially welded in place,its going to break anyway.Then you have a tedious job to do in the mill.You have not yet scratched the receiver.

If you are pushing in on a screwdriver and it breaks,a hard,jagged,sharp broken end is headed for the blue or color case.Ugly!!

I do not want a screwdriver blade to break,period.That "break off tip"is a bogus idea,IMO.

Yes,fit your screwdrivers.And,some good tool mechanic screwdrivers can be ground to fit. Snapons,old Craftsman,S-K,,etc can be OK.No,you do not have to alter the temper if you know what you are doing.First,lose the weld shop grey grinding wheel and put on a surface grinder wheel.Works good on drills and lathe bits,too.Use a light touch for a short time.Hand finish them .

I did not do it,but I saw a color cased Meacham Hi-Wall with a scratch on the side of the receiver.What do you do? In this case,it was not a screwdriver,but,what do you do?

I'd rather make a new screw than deal with a gouged part from a brittle screwdriver.
 
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