HALLAUSTIN
New member
Don't you start to lose reliabilith when you go lighter? I hear it is a fine line, but that's if you go WAAY light. Maybe just have the action smoothed by smith? They offer the service on their website.
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gunsmith question
- Thread starter BuckRub
- Start date
A few years ago, at a bowling pin shoot, a friend was bragging endlessly about the S&W Model 27 he had gotten back from customizer. I tried the DA pull and expressed some concern about reliability. The owner told us that the gun had been worked on by X (a nationally known gunsmith) and that it could not possibly fail, the gunsmith was a real expert, etc., etc.
When he got to the line, he found that neither the gunsmith's reputation nor the gun's clicks disturbed the pins even a little bit. He left when no one was looking. He later had a local smith (me) fix the gun so it still had a very good DA trigger, but fired.
Jim
When he got to the line, he found that neither the gunsmith's reputation nor the gun's clicks disturbed the pins even a little bit. He left when no one was looking. He later had a local smith (me) fix the gun so it still had a very good DA trigger, but fired.
Jim
Bought a 629 that had a 7lb SA pull and I don't know what the DA pull was because the scale only went to 12lbs. Grouping was all over the place.
I dropped it off at a local gunsmith for an action/trigger job.
Now, the DA pull is 7lbs and the SA pull is about 3lbs. Grouping tightened up and is now the shooter and not the gun.
I was lucky and found a Smith who has experience with Smith revolvers. I've read horror stories of guns being ruined by inexperienced Smiths getting in over their head.
I dropped it off at a local gunsmith for an action/trigger job.
Now, the DA pull is 7lbs and the SA pull is about 3lbs. Grouping tightened up and is now the shooter and not the gun.
I was lucky and found a Smith who has experience with Smith revolvers. I've read horror stories of guns being ruined by inexperienced Smiths getting in over their head.
You will never get the J frame smiths that light and still have the reliability yo want. The lightweight hammer of your revolver will preclude really light springs. The lack of weight in the hammer requires the use of heavier springs to get it to hit the primer hard enough to make it fire. There are some trade off's here, but you can't fight physics. I would find a "really good gunsmith"...and I stress "really good" as there are a lot of them that aren't out there. Possibly send it to Cylinder and Slide even. Have them polish up the works as good as possible and it will feel like a lot less pull while still retaining the reliablilty.
Old Stony said:The lack of weight in the hammer requires the use of heavier springs to get it to hit the primer hard enough to make it fire. There are some trade off's here, but you can't fight physics.
True, physics works against the J-frame, but it's the length of the hammer, not weight, that's the issue. All else equal, a lighter hammer helps reliability because it travels faster, while a shorter hammer travels hurts reliability because the end of the hammer travels through it's arc slower.
The J-frame suffers general mechanical disadvantages, and the pull is stiff from a nasty double whammy - shorter hammer and less trigger/hammer leverage.