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Guns+welding
- Thread starter xandi
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
New member
I have a jeweler friend who has a very expensive laser welder. We weld tiny pieces of steel often. It has been a great help in my knife restoration business.
The heat is entirely localized. He can weld a ring while holding it in his hands.
If I were a younger man, I would buy one ($25K) and set myself up to do precision welding.
You can retip a firing pin, weld up a dinged rimfire chamber, etc.-while holding it.
The heat is entirely localized. He can weld a ring while holding it in his hands.
If I were a younger man, I would buy one ($25K) and set myself up to do precision welding.
You can retip a firing pin, weld up a dinged rimfire chamber, etc.-while holding it.
disseminator
New member
I would always lean towards the TIG process for gun parts myself.
You just have more control with the TIG and it can really be dialed down as slow as you want which is useful for precision work.
You just have more control with the TIG and it can really be dialed down as slow as you want which is useful for precision work.
Bill DeShivs
New member
xandi- yes, you can- but it's slow, of course.
IMO,it makes a difference where you are welding and with what.
If you read Kreiger's barrel making process,its apparent that stress relief is a major part of what you are buying.That is gone if you weld on the barrel.
I'd never accept welding longitudally on a front receiver ring,even tig,such as a scope base.
Bolt handles? There is a way to screw a heat sink/thread support into the bolt body before welding.I added a gravity flow tube to the heat sink so it and the bolt body were water cooled while the weld area was dry.It worked well.No heat color to the cocking cam.
I have an STI TruBore 1911 comped barrel that has never been in a gun.Unfortunately,somewhere in its history the hood became .3675 wide.My slide hood notch is .375. IMO,.0075 is too much clearance. I got the barrel cheap,but I have a problem.
I found a nearby source for this laser microwelding.I have had it done to molds before.This barrel is .416R. In the video,the filler is 420.Note the welder's bare fingers are in contact with the workpiece.
I'm thinking I can get my .004 on each side of the hood.
I'm not building it to sell,its just a way I can afford to build myself comped double stack 38 super...just because. Please watch the video before commenting.This is far from goose pooping 6013 on with the buzz box.
https://youtu.be/K3mFAyq3UAk
I am wondering about narrowing the notch in the slide instead.I'll probably talk with the welder.
If you read Kreiger's barrel making process,its apparent that stress relief is a major part of what you are buying.That is gone if you weld on the barrel.
I'd never accept welding longitudally on a front receiver ring,even tig,such as a scope base.
Bolt handles? There is a way to screw a heat sink/thread support into the bolt body before welding.I added a gravity flow tube to the heat sink so it and the bolt body were water cooled while the weld area was dry.It worked well.No heat color to the cocking cam.
I have an STI TruBore 1911 comped barrel that has never been in a gun.Unfortunately,somewhere in its history the hood became .3675 wide.My slide hood notch is .375. IMO,.0075 is too much clearance. I got the barrel cheap,but I have a problem.
I found a nearby source for this laser microwelding.I have had it done to molds before.This barrel is .416R. In the video,the filler is 420.Note the welder's bare fingers are in contact with the workpiece.
I'm thinking I can get my .004 on each side of the hood.
I'm not building it to sell,its just a way I can afford to build myself comped double stack 38 super...just because. Please watch the video before commenting.This is far from goose pooping 6013 on with the buzz box.
https://youtu.be/K3mFAyq3UAk
I am wondering about narrowing the notch in the slide instead.I'll probably talk with the welder.
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