valleyforge.1777
New member
Steve,
See what I mean?
The buy back programs establish a minimum price floor for firearms, regardless of make, model, or condition. Proves my point, exactly.
Gun Unused for 40+ years.
- Thread starter goochman
- Start date
Steve,
See what I mean?
The buy back programs establish a minimum price floor for firearms, regardless of make, model, or condition. Proves my point, exactly.
steveNChunter
New member
I agree with you Valley Forge, it does establish a price floor. Thats irrelevant to the fact that handing guns over to the gov't is never a good idea no matter how much they want to pay you. The more volunteers they get, the easier it would be (in their eyes) to make it mandatory.
I actually heard a local liberal anti gunner say once: "it would be in your best interest to turn your guns in now for $100 a piece rather than have them confiscated in the future and face fines and/or jail time."
I believe that is the mindset of most of the people behind these buyback programs. Let the buyback serve as a price floor, and nothing else. Unless its a stolen gun, please don't take it to a buyback. And if it is stolen, take it back to the rightful owner. Now there's an idea!
I wanna see some pictures of this gun too! We have talked about its mystery enough!
I actually heard a local liberal anti gunner say once: "it would be in your best interest to turn your guns in now for $100 a piece rather than have them confiscated in the future and face fines and/or jail time."
I believe that is the mindset of most of the people behind these buyback programs. Let the buyback serve as a price floor, and nothing else. Unless its a stolen gun, please don't take it to a buyback. And if it is stolen, take it back to the rightful owner. Now there's an idea!
I wanna see some pictures of this gun too! We have talked about its mystery enough!
berettaprofessor
New member
Don't know about a Winchester 94, but I recently came across a H&R Autoeject pistol that had been sitting in a box in a closet since probably 1916. It functioned and shot just fine
The worst thing about gun 'buybacks' is that the government isn't buying them back. They never owned them in the first place. The money they pay is taken from our (taxpayer) pockets. I wasn't aware that the price was up to 100.00 on these programs because I remember when 50.00 was being offered. I would sell it to an individual who would attempt to restore it before the government who intends to destroy it. Still would like to know from the OP about the condition of the rifle.
Pathfinder45
New member
He wasn't joking?
I thought Valleyforge was joking, as the very idea was utterly ridiculous to me. Not a fan of old Winchesters, eh? Well some of us are. I'm guessing that rifle is in better condition than my well used 1942 vintage model 94 and mine works just fine in spite of the long gone finish. My model 1912 Winchester is now 99 years old and still busting clays as good as a brand new 870. These old Winchesters will still be good long after we are gone.
I thought Valleyforge was joking, as the very idea was utterly ridiculous to me. Not a fan of old Winchesters, eh? Well some of us are. I'm guessing that rifle is in better condition than my well used 1942 vintage model 94 and mine works just fine in spite of the long gone finish. My model 1912 Winchester is now 99 years old and still busting clays as good as a brand new 870. These old Winchesters will still be good long after we are gone.
Pathfinder45
New member
This is getting better......
This is getting better all the time! Heck, even if it's just a parts gun.... I need a metal butt-plate for my pre-64.
This is getting better all the time! Heck, even if it's just a parts gun.... I need a metal butt-plate for my pre-64.
I'd check to see if, before cocking the hammer, the trigger was moving freely. If stuck or the return spring isn't returning it briskly, the rifle action is due for cleaning and lubing.
If the rear stock is loose in the metal, it's dried out a bit from storage in a warm place. I'd remove the large screw behind the hammer with a close-fitting screwdriver. The stock should then slide off.
Rule Number 1: keep the WD-40 away from the internals of any gun! It will gum everything up within a year or so!!!! (If you must use it at all, apply only on outside metal surfaces.)
Okay, if you know how to disassemble and clean the action without buggering screws and pins, go to it, but if not: Get some Gun Scrubber and spray the internal action, hammer pivot, and trigger pivot parts liberally and let it dry. Apply good gun oil or synthetic motor oil to pivot points of hammer, trigger, lifter, etc.
If there's rust on exterior surfaces, use Break-Free CLP on #300 or #400 steel wool and rub gently. Depending on the extent of the rust, it could take time.
If the bore is clean and un-rusted, run a patch through it with Break-Free CLP or bore cleaner and check the patch for rust. IF the bore isn't rough, but just has rust color on the patch, use a bronze bore brush with Break-Free CLP to remove the rust. If its badly pitted, don't ruin it, but take it to a gunsmith or knowledgeable gun nut to check it further. (Pitted, but otherwise rust-free barrels aren't necessarily unsafe or unshootable, just need more cleaning after shooting. Have it checked by a gunsmith before shooting it.)
If the wood finish is very dry, consider sanding and using Tung Oil, or other oil stock finish. Follow directions.
Hope this helps. Everbody has their own methods of cleaning and rust removal and you'll probably hear from them.
If the rear stock is loose in the metal, it's dried out a bit from storage in a warm place. I'd remove the large screw behind the hammer with a close-fitting screwdriver. The stock should then slide off.
Rule Number 1: keep the WD-40 away from the internals of any gun! It will gum everything up within a year or so!!!! (If you must use it at all, apply only on outside metal surfaces.)
Okay, if you know how to disassemble and clean the action without buggering screws and pins, go to it, but if not: Get some Gun Scrubber and spray the internal action, hammer pivot, and trigger pivot parts liberally and let it dry. Apply good gun oil or synthetic motor oil to pivot points of hammer, trigger, lifter, etc.
If there's rust on exterior surfaces, use Break-Free CLP on #300 or #400 steel wool and rub gently. Depending on the extent of the rust, it could take time.
If the bore is clean and un-rusted, run a patch through it with Break-Free CLP or bore cleaner and check the patch for rust. IF the bore isn't rough, but just has rust color on the patch, use a bronze bore brush with Break-Free CLP to remove the rust. If its badly pitted, don't ruin it, but take it to a gunsmith or knowledgeable gun nut to check it further. (Pitted, but otherwise rust-free barrels aren't necessarily unsafe or unshootable, just need more cleaning after shooting. Have it checked by a gunsmith before shooting it.)
If the wood finish is very dry, consider sanding and using Tung Oil, or other oil stock finish. Follow directions.
Hope this helps. Everbody has their own methods of cleaning and rust removal and you'll probably hear from them.
2nd that. I think he's got it & the mods can probly lock this one up before its totally hijacked
Sent from iPhone
I say give it a basic cleaning, with some Hoppes bore solvent to disolve the (likely) old dried oil, wipe it off, run a solvent patch through the bore and dry it, and go shoot it, with the old ammo. The ammo, if anything adverse, may be a bit weak, but is probably OK. Unless very old, like pre-war, I haven't seen old ammo go for all that much. A few price it high, but they don't seem to sell much of it, unless in brand new condition and certain types of boxes and ammo. I've bought many boxes, even a few pre-war, for less than new ammo.
It's a great old carbine, and should be fine, even if it takes a little TLC.
Wow! I guess my old 1927 made 94 carbine was junk when I got it and I never knew it. It was used hard on a ranch for likely all the years before I got it in the early 80's, and looked like it had never been cleaned or cared for. It was rough, inside and out, but functioned fine, and shot decently for a pitted, neglected bore (about 3 1/2" @ 100 yds, and was a bit better after getting it recrowned).
I'd bet the 94 in the original post isn't bad, or it would have been mentioned. Give it a shine up, and see how it shoots. If the action has gummy old oil in it, a basic cleaning with Hoppes should loosen it up. I've found they rarely really need to ever be taken apart, though I had no trouble with the first one I got at 14 and couldn't wait to strip down and see how it all worked. Heck, it would be even easier with instructions.
My old neglected 94,
It's a great old carbine, and should be fine, even if it takes a little TLC.
Wow! I guess my old 1927 made 94 carbine was junk when I got it and I never knew it. It was used hard on a ranch for likely all the years before I got it in the early 80's, and looked like it had never been cleaned or cared for. It was rough, inside and out, but functioned fine, and shot decently for a pitted, neglected bore (about 3 1/2" @ 100 yds, and was a bit better after getting it recrowned).
I'd bet the 94 in the original post isn't bad, or it would have been mentioned. Give it a shine up, and see how it shoots. If the action has gummy old oil in it, a basic cleaning with Hoppes should loosen it up. I've found they rarely really need to ever be taken apart, though I had no trouble with the first one I got at 14 and couldn't wait to strip down and see how it all worked. Heck, it would be even easier with instructions.
My old neglected 94,
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Valley forge, I think you hit the nail on the head when you said "give the man some useful advice". I would like to see you take your own.
I inherited my grandfather's old Remington 552 speedmaster. I was told it was broken and wouldn't fire. He wasn't of the tinkering sort and the rifle found its way to the back corner of a shed. Not a nice insulated temperature controlled garage. A shed. It had thirty years of dust and rust on it when it was given to me. Six hours worth of disassembly, scrubbing of each individual component of the entire firing mechanism, a good bore scrub, some oil on the stock, and reassembly netted me a fully functional rifle that looks like hell and shoots like heaven.
Sir, your advice is the worst I have seen on this forum to date. A gun buyback for a pre-64 winchester of unknown condition? Seriously?
I inherited my grandfather's old Remington 552 speedmaster. I was told it was broken and wouldn't fire. He wasn't of the tinkering sort and the rifle found its way to the back corner of a shed. Not a nice insulated temperature controlled garage. A shed. It had thirty years of dust and rust on it when it was given to me. Six hours worth of disassembly, scrubbing of each individual component of the entire firing mechanism, a good bore scrub, some oil on the stock, and reassembly netted me a fully functional rifle that looks like hell and shoots like heaven.
Sir, your advice is the worst I have seen on this forum to date. A gun buyback for a pre-64 winchester of unknown condition? Seriously?
spacemanspiff
New member
If the ammo is suspect, get a bullet puller and do your own disposal. Why bother with local police dept? Pull the bullet, reserve the powder for pyro fun.
valleyforge.1777
New member
Right on, mdd !
You tell him!
Anyway, your rusted rifle may shoot well but it is worth less than what you can get from a gun buy back.
And, the original poster never came back and never described the condition of his rifle, so you are simply GUESSING when you offer your advice. Keep guessing! That's all you're doing.
You tell him!
Anyway, your rusted rifle may shoot well but it is worth less than what you can get from a gun buy back.
And, the original poster never came back and never described the condition of his rifle, so you are simply GUESSING when you offer your advice. Keep guessing! That's all you're doing.
@ valleyforge His point doesn't reflect monetary value. You can't write a check for sentimental value. You and plenty others may see only dollar signs when looking at old firearms but not everyone. I doubt just by GUESSING its in unsalvageable condition. I've seen a lot of them revived.