Gun Safe Advise

I am also sure you could get a ceramic lined safe to pass. The walls would simply have to be much thicker.

We have discussed this many times before and I've even done a analysis as you recall, even with an optimized cement/concrete insulation mix it's not even close as I think most people would expect: the fiber is at least 2 times better but likely many times more than that but since the fiber insulation is designed specifically to be a insulator, it should be no surprise. Of course, the above example with attached photos is the best evidence of how just 2 inches of compressed fiber can keep the interior less than 350F in a complete burn down of a residence. So I guess we will just have to agree to disagree a1abdj.

ZerO, sorry to have taken your thread off on a tangent. There are a few good choices in the price range as mentioned. I happen to think Sturdy is the best but that's based on what I find important in a gun safe which might be different than other people. If weight isn't an issue and you think you might want a little more security than these provide, there are some reasonable priced TL rated safes such as AMSEC AMVAULT composite safe but the shipping and placement might prove to be a bit pricey and of course you'll have to deal with a 3000LBS safe if you ever need to move it.
 
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I've even done a analysis as you recall, even with an optimized cement/concrete insulation mix it's not even close as I think most people would expect:

I recall you doing an analysis, but I don't recall you making it against anything factual. You were comparing ceramic insulations with known data, against a cast insulation that you knew nothing about.

the fiber is at least 2 times better but likely many times more than that but since the fiber insulation is designed specifically to be a insulator,

The cast insulations are also designed specifically to be a insulator. Of course I'm having trouble seeing how it is two times better, when I already showed you above, using your own examples, how much more effective the cast insulations were.

Of course, the above example with attached photos is the best evidence of how just 2 inches of compressed fiber can keep the interior less than 350F in a complete burn down of a residence. So I guess we will just have to agree to disagree a1abdj.

Here's a photo to compare to your photo. It is of a small UL rated safe, using less than 2 inches of cast insulation. It was also in a worse fire. This safe was located on the second floor of a two story house that burned itself into the basement. The safe was exposed to the full fire, as well as the time it took the debris to cool off enough for the safe to be retrieved.

Although the contents of both safes "survived", look closely at the contents of each. The Sturdy gun safe has some fire damaged contents. That little UL rated Sentry (which could have been bought at Walmart for $150), even has thin plastic baggies that survived, and very little damage to the contents.

Sentry_Open_Fire_22_rt.jpg


image4small.jpg


You can disagree all that you want, but again, the proof is right there in front of you. Cast insulations do a better job of protecting contents against fire. It's not just my opinion. It's the opinion of UL, the major safe manufacturers, and although I can't speak for everybody, most of us in the business.
 
what can be added to space around a safe to increase fire protection

a1abdj

I have an inch or two on all sides of my Liberty safe in the garage. What would you recommend as an extra little of fire protection to just set aside the safe. I selected the Liberty for gun protection, but mostly for paper and valuables from fire, which I feel is the more likely thing to hit. I did not have enough money to get a real "theft" safe with real fire protection. Just thinking that some extra something along side might actually extend the fire protection.
 
I have an inch or two on all sides of my Liberty safe in the garage. What would you recommend as an extra little of fire protection to just set aside the safe. I selected the Liberty for gun protection, but mostly for paper and valuables from fire, which I feel is the more likely thing to hit. I did not have enough money to get a real "theft" safe with real fire protection. Just thinking that some extra something along side might actually extend the fire protection.

You may get a bit of extra protection, but the door will still be vulnerable. Just because certain materials won't get a safe to meet UL standards doesn't mean that they don't work at all. I would get some 5/8" gypsum X (fire treated, available at any place that sells drywall). It is inexpensive, easy to cut and place, and will give you some protection. If you have room for an air gap between the gyspum and the safe, that would be even better.

If you park your car in the garage, you could expect higher temperatures than you would within a house. Safes in garages also tend to have more combustible items placed next to them.
 
Well since it still is being discussed and is generally the theme of the thread, I'll respond a1abdj.

Of those two photos, the one that appears to have damaged content is the Sentry safe. It looks to me like that plastic bag melted and also some charring on that folded envelope where it made contact with the side wall.

Sentry_Open_Fire_22_rt.jpg


In the Sturdy safe photo, it might appear that the files to the far left are darker but that's just because they are in a shadow. You can see there are plastic pistol cases that touch the side of the safe where the insulation is thinnest. Here is a picture of that plastic pistol case and pistol:

image4small.jpg


image3small.jpg


http://www.sturdysafe.com/fireliner.htm

Yes that Sentry fire safe is made of a cast (concrete) mix which does allow it to evaporate water much like the drywall so it will do okay as long as there is still water to evaporate, once the water is gone or the pressure is too high for the water to boil; the heat will rise rapidly. Also, those Sentry safe can only pass a 1/2 hour test to 1550 Degrees F which as you likely know is due to the long cool down period with concrete type insulation.

I recall you doing an analysis, but I don't recall you making it against anything factual. You were comparing ceramic insulations with known data, against a cast insulation that you knew nothing about.

Well that's not exactly true. I do know from AMSEC that Drylight is a concrete mix. So knowing that, I chose an aggregate with the highest thermal resistance I could find, Perlite, (it was later revealed that AMSEC uses Vermiculite as an aggregate in their fire lined safes which isn't as good as Perlite). Even with a 8 to 1 ratio of Perlite or Vermiculite to Portland Cement ratio; the concrete mix still conducts heat at least twice as fast.

But here it is again which is a comparison for what Sturdy does for fire protection to what is in an AMSEC BF as a best case scenario as I see it and you are welcomed to have AMSEC show why I am wrong a1abdj.

Here’s why I think the Sturdy gun safe has the AMSEC BF beat though in the area of fire protection and since I can’t run an actual test and show the results I’m forced to give a mathematical model. Sorry this is long but I’m sure someone is going to want to know where the numbers are coming from.

Assume we have both of these gun safes in a house fire which is 1275F and continues for 90 minutes until the fire department puts the fire out (According to AMSEC’s website the BF series is rated for Mercury Class III fire protection of 1275°F for 90 minutes and designed to maintain an interior temperature of less than 350°F so we will use those numbers as the standard since the BF is UL listed [this gun safe is not tested by UL as I later found out].) For this example both safes will have the same dimensions: 2 meters tall, 1 meter wide and 1 meter deep (using SI units are easier to follow the numbers.)

We know from thermodynamics that the primary mode of heat transfer from the house fire to the interior of the gun safes will be by way of conduction. Fourier Law of Conduction (steady state) tells us that heat will flow from the high temperature region to the low temperature based on the following equation: Q=-kA (T2-T1)/L where q is the heat flow rate, k is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material in question, A is the cross section area of the heat flow region, L in the depth of the material and T2-T1 is the delta difference in temperature between boundaries (exterior to interior).
The Sturdy safe’s materials are well defined on their website so it’s easy to build a model for their design and since we are just comparing the two safes on a one to one basis, we can find the heat transfer of sections and add them up for the total heat flow rate to the safe’s interior.

The standard Sturdy Safe with fire lining has four layers as seen from their website. For the sides and back of the safe there is an outer shell of 7ga steel, next layer is a 1 inch(0.0254m) 2300F rated ceramic wool blanket, next 1 inch (0.0254m) of 1000F fiber glass, then a 14ga steel inner liner. Because the materials in the safe are in contact with each other at their boundaries we can just add up their thermal resistances (similar to an electrical circuit with resistors in series) and determine the rate of heat flow Q. The coefficients (K) of materials in SI units used are: Steel (1%carbon) = 43 W/mC, Ceramic Wool = 0.06 W/mC, Fiber Glass = 0.04 W/mC. So substituting the appropriate thermal resistance coefficients and depth of material gives and the temperature difference between the 1275F house fire and average temperature of the safe’s interior to go from room temperature to 350F (in SI units though) gives the following:

Q(sides and back)=-1m^2(691C-100C)/(0.0048/43+0.0254/0.06 +0.0254/0.04+0.0019/43) = 549 W (per meter sq of surface area).

For the top and bottom of the Sturdy Safe there is an extra inch of Fiberglass insulation depth so that rate of heat transfer is: Q(top and bottom)= 349 W/m^2. For the door, there is thicker steel but the heat flow rate is basically the same as the top and bottom of the safe. So based on the dimensions of the safe we have the overall average heat flow rate would be:

Q (Overall Heat Flow Sturdy) = (4m^2)(349W/m^2)+(6m^2)(549W/m^2) = 4690Watts

For the AMSEC BF series safe there is a little reverse engineering needed since we don’t have specs on their “Drylight” concrete. The thing that we generally know about concrete is strength increases with density but the opposite is true for thermal insulation. Because the primary purpose of the insulation in the BF series safe is fire protection (and also based on comments made from those who have handled the material) Drylight is likely a Portland cement / Perlite mix aka Perlite Concrete). Since we know that AMSEC recently increased the density of the concrete mix and reduced the thickness of the shell of the BF from 10ga steel to 11ga steel, it is likely that the folks at AMSEC determined that they had room to increase the density of their concrete insulation without jeopardizing their UL fire rating. So based on that, my best guess is they were using a Portland cement to Perlite mix of 1:8 prior to the change but are now using 1:6. As reference, standard concrete has a thermal conductivity co-efficient K of 1.7 W/mC with a compressive strength around 3000PSI. Perlite concrete with a 1:6 mix has a K of 0.084 W/mC but a compressive strength of only 125PSI so there is a big tradeoff in strength to get the insulation properties.

As we know now from recent discussions, the body roof and floor of the BF series has three layers: an 11ga steel shell, around 2” of Drylight and another 14ga inner liner. The door has ½” of steel with 1” of Drylight for insulation. So doing a similar analysis as done above for the Sturdy safe shows that the overall average heat flow rate to the interior of the AMSEC BF series safe in a 1275F house fire would be:

Q (Overall Heat Flow BF Series) = 11,721Watts.

So based on this analysis, the AMSEC BF series safe transfers heat to the interior of the safe at a rate 2.5 times higher than the Sturdy Safe design. That would mean for the same house fire where an AMSEC BF series safe’s interior temperature reaches 350F the Sturdy safe would be around 185F. Also, since the AMSEC BF uses concrete with a significant mass as an insulating material, the insulation itself will hold heat and continue to transfer heat to the interior of the safe long after the fire ends and that’s even if the exterior had been cooled once. For the Sturdy Safe’s design, most of the mass is located on the steel shell with the light weight insulating material contributing a small percentage of mass and heat storing capacity of the safe so if you cool the exterior of the Sturdy safe after a fire, it won’t re-heat itself afterwards.

This is the longest comment I ever have made on a thread so I'd better stop but in my opinion and especially after doing this analysis, the Sturdy safe design is far superior to the AMSEC BF series in fire protection.
 
Of those two photos, the one that appears to have damaged content is the Sentry safe. It looks to me like that plastic bag melted and also some charring on that folded envelope where it made contact with the side wall.

You certainly have an interesting way of looking at photos. Your observations here are similar to the observations regarding the "hole punched in the safe" that was actually scratched paint.

Disregard the photos for a minute. How many safes have you personally seen opened after a fire? I have probably seen around 100, so I have some experience when it comes to seeing what is fire damaged and what is not.

You can see there are plastic pistol cases that touch the side of the safe where the insulation is thinnest. Here is a picture of that plastic pistol case and pistol:

At what temperature would a plastic pistol case melt? At what temperature would a plastic sandwich bag or grocery bag melt?

Those plastic bags in the Sentry will usually melt in the 220 to 240 degree range. The plastic gun case in the Sturdy will usually melt in the 420 degree range. However, paper begins to change color at +/- 300 degrees, and will ignite at just over 400 degrees.

You can claim the photo is dark because it is a shadow, and then show a plastic gun case as your evidence. However, based on the numbers I just showed you, the paper could have been charred (which is probably was), and the plastic gun case could have still been in prstine condition.


Yes that Sentry fire safe is made of a cast (concrete) mix which does allow it to evaporate water much like the drywall so it will do okay as long as there is still water to evaporate, once the water is gone or the pressure is too high for the water to boil; the heat will rise rapidly. Also, those Sentry safe can only pass a 1/2 hour test to 1550 Degrees F which as you likely know is due to the long cool down period with concrete type insulation.

I am glad you made that observation. The safe shown in that photo is in fact only a 30 minute safe.

How long do you think that safe was in the fire for it to burn into the basement? That safe performed beyond its rating. Not only did it survive an exposure longer than its rating, but it also maintained a lower temperature.


Well that's not exactly true. I do know from AMSEC that Drylight is a concrete mix. So knowing that, I chose an aggregate with the highest thermal resistance I could find, Perlite, (it was later revealed that AMSEC uses Vermiculite as an aggregate in their fire lined safes which isn't as good as Perlite). Even with a 8 to 1 ratio of Perlite or Vermiculite to Portland Cement ratio; the concrete mix still conducts heat at least twice as fast.

So it is exactly true, when you say it's not. You "know" what it is, but can not find any information about it, so you choose a different material to run your numbers on.

Why would you choose a material that they use in the fire lined safes? That's not the material that they are using in their BF line.

I suppose you could do a bunch of math to prove something, if you actually knew the real numbers. But since you don't, I suggest a more simple method. Let's just look at what has a UL tag and what doesn't. I'll show you an AMSEC BF safe with a UL fire tag. Go ahead and show me a safe using ceramic insulation (solely) with a UL tag.
 
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Ask someone who would really know...

a1abdj#42: Cast insulations do a better job of protecting contents against fire. It's not just my opinion. It's the opinion of UL, the major safe manufacturers, and although I can't speak for everybody, most of us in the business.
When it comes to fire protection in safes, we feel, ceramic is way more effective than cast insulations . UL AGREES WITH US.

Spreading misinformation on UL's behalf to sell safes (seeing as how your a 30 yr old safe salemen) will get you in deep trouble with UL, and they don't take these things lightly.

No one needs to take our word, or any other salesmans word for it, just contact people who would know. In this case, it would be Michael B. Koepke (Customer Service Engineer Elements with Underwriters Laboratories Inc. aka "the man to actually ask these questions to"). 877-854-3577 ext. 42902

When I asked Michael if he thought your statement quoted above is true when it came to cast vs. ceramic insulations, he said NO.
I asked Michael if there really are safes lined with ceramic with a UL Fire/Class# rating on them, and he said YES.
When I asked Michael if he could give the name and other details of these UL Fire/Class# safes lined with ceramic, he said he couldn't give out that info, and said I would need to contact the safe manufacturers direct so they could tell me what they used.
 
a1abdj: The Sturdy gun safe has some fire damaged contents.
Incorrect. The contents were not fire damaged.
Frank, I encourage you to do your homework before posting anymore incorrect information about us. We went ahead and recorded this evidence in our records, amongst all the other incorrect information you have said about us here (and on other forums).
 
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When it comes to fire protection in safes, we feel, ceramic is way more effective than cast insulations . UL AGREES WITH US.

UL does? Somebody who works at UL does?

I find this curious, as UL isn't in business to promote any product or type of product. They merely exist as an independent testing facility.

Spreading misinformation on UL's behalf to sell safes (seeing as how your a 30 yr old safe salemen) will get you in deep trouble with UL, and they don't take these things lightly.

I'm as much of a "safe salesman" as you are a "safe repair station". I'm actually a 35 year old who owns a full service safe and vault company. Granted, I've only been in this business since 1992, but I know a thing or two about safes and how they're built.

So what kind of misinformation are you talking about? What kind of trouble? I dont' think either exists.

When I asked Michael if he thought your statement quoted above is true when it came to cast vs. ceramic insulations, he said NO.
I asked Michael if there really are safes lined with ceramic with a UL Fire/Class# rating on them, and he said YES.
When I asked Michael if he could give the name and other details of these UL Fire/Class# safes lined with ceramic, he said he couldn't give out that info, and said I would need to contact the safe manufacturers direct so they could tell me what they used.

You don't carry any UL ratings on your safes, yet you're on a first name basis with those at UL huh?

Of course there are safes using ceramics. Just about every data safe uses them. We've already discussed that here. I'm talking about primary insualtions, not secondary inserts.

I also find it odd that he won't tell you what products have their labels. As you have said, they are very particular about the use of their label, or more specifically the misuse of their label. I don't think that there's any secrets involved with who's had their safes tested and who hasn't. Perhaps you need to know the secret handshake or something.

Incorrect. The contents were not fire damaged.

I guess that depends on the definition of "damaged".

Frank, I encourage you to do your homework before posting anymore incorrect information about us.

I don't believe I have posted anything incorrect.

We went ahead and recorded this in our records, amongst all the other incorrect information you have said about us, which you have yet to correct. Not just on this forum, but all the other ones you have been posting on. Just letting you know.

You're keeping records on me? If you feel it's worth your time, I guess I don't really have a problem with it. After all, it is a public forum. It's not like I'm saying anything here that I wouldn't want others to see.
 
You don't need to be on a first name basis, anyone can call!

You don't carry any UL ratings on your safes, yet you're on a first name basis with those at UL huh?
You bet. We have looked into it getting a UL fire rating. Unfortunately, their prices are still too high. However, he is more than willing to talk to anyone that calls, so go ahead and call! If your curious as to what his credentials are, (and believe me, he's a far cry from receptionist) just ask. When I called, I asked who the engineer is that handles safe UL Fire ratings and he was the guy I was referred to. There might be other engineers that can help, so go ahead and ask for them too if you like.

Your myspace says age 31, so that is where I got the age from.
 
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I suppose you're right. They probably even have a receptionist that answers calls.

Well if you find that safe with a UL rating that's using ceramics as it's primary insulation, please let me know. I have looked myself, asked everybody I know in the business (including manufacturers), and even looked over seas at foreign manufacturers. I can't find one.

I think a gun safe getting a UL fire rating would be good for business. It would be worth whatever it cost, as there is currently nothing like it on the market.
 
I was hoping to post these photos earlier, but I had trouble tracking them down. This was just a little something, non scientific, that I did a while back.

People usually have a tough time understanding what really happens inside of a safe during a fire. What I did was place a few common items on a cookie sheet, and placed then in an oven at 350 degrees for a half hour.

Here are the items before:

firetestbefore.jpg


Here are the items after:

firetestafter.jpg



firetestaftercds.jpg



firetestafterphotos.jpg



You will notice that most of the items weren't really destroyed. The CDs were warped and would no longer play. The photos had turned very dark, with the Polaroid actually being destroyed. The paper did OK, but you may notice in the after photos that it started to darken.

If you compare these photos to others where "shadows" are claimed to be causing the color distortion, you can draw your own conclusions.

I'm not posting these photos to say that this type of damage is bad. It should be expected, as this is what most fire rated safes are designed to do. The thought behind a fire rated safe is to keep paper documents in readable condition. Some damage is to be expected.
 
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If you compare these photos to others where "shadows" are claimed to be causing the color distortion, you can draw your own conclusions.
Lol, It is what we say it is Franky. No damage. Perfect condition. Stan (the owner of the safe) as well as a few firemen from that blaze can testify to that. Indeed, I have more names and numbers for you, and anyone else who wants them. We have nothing to hide, and we are more than willing to prove it's the truth. It's ok thou, keep stating otherwise. We feel, your not helping yourself out by doing so.


I also find it odd that he won't tell you what products have their labels.
Actually, he gave me a list of safe mfg names with UL Fire Class ratings on them, but couldn't say who used what, or what safe model was tested with the ceramic insulator. I would have needed to call the manufacturers and hope they tell me. Again, your more than welcome to call him. I'm sure he would give you the same list. While your at it, call everyone on the list an let me know what UL rated fire safe uses ceramic, now that we know there is one (or maybe more) out there.




It's time for me to depart this forum. Again, anyone here who has any questions about Sturdy Safes, just ask us direct. You guys are what keep us going!
 
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Actually, he gave me a list of safe mfg names with UL Fire Class ratings on them, but couldn't say who used what, or what safe model was tested with the ceramic insulator. I would have needed to call the manufacturers and hope they tell me. Again, your more than welcome to call him. I'm sure he would give you the same list. While your at it, call everyone on the list an let me know what UL rated fire safe uses ceramic, now that we know there is one (or maybe more) out there.

He couldn't say because he didn't know, or he couldn't say because it's some sort of secret? It's not really a secret, as anybody who can pull the back panel off of a safe's door can see what's inside.

I've never seen one, nobody I've ever talked to has seen one, and nobody can show me one.

Since you and Adirondack seem to be the only two making the claims of the superiority of ceramic insulations, I would assume that you would have examples to hold out.

Remember, we are looking for safes with a UL fire tag that use ceramics as their sole primary insulation.

I suppose I should also add that I sell safes that use ceramics for their insulation as well. None of them are UL rated.
 
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Not sure what you meant by that KChen986 but Sturdy Gun Safe is one of the best companies I've ever dealt with both professionally and personally. And, they have every right to defend themselves; I have actually been amazed at their patience.

Thank you for providing the contact info for the expert at UL Alyssa. I guess I'm a little embarrassed because that was the kind of expert I was referring to back on post #17 but didn't take the initiative.
 
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6811860&postcount=236

I actually contacted Frank about purchasing a safe, but he recommended I go local. He has also frequently participated in multiple gun boards, offering advice and knowledge about safes. It's funny, because I often see Sturdy only when they want to defend their reputation, or extoll how great their safes are.

I'm sure Sturdy makes a great safe, and I'm sure they're a good company. But Amsec v. Sturdy and Ceramic v. Wool gets pretty old.
 
He couldn't say because he didn't know, or he couldn't say because it's some sort of secret? It's not really a secret, as anybody who can pull the back panel off of a safe's door can see what's inside.

I've never seen one, nobody I've ever talked to has seen one, and nobody can show me one.

Since you and Adirondack seem to be the only two making the claims of the superiority of ceramic insulations, I would assume that you would have examples to hold out.

Remember, we are looking for safes with a UL fire tag that use ceramics as their sole primary insulation.

I suppose I should also add that I sell safes that use ceramics for their insulation as well. None of them are UL rated.

Alyssa gave you the number of the expert at UL, call the guy and hear what he has to say, you might learn something new. And, a manufacturer isn't going to want you or any competitor to know how they can achieve a UL fire rating and since UL is paid by their customers and likely have had to sign a confidentiality agreement, they are not permitted to share the customer specific information.
 
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Alyssa gave you the number of the expert at UL, call the guy and hear what he has to say, you might learn something new.

What exactly am I going to learn? The expert, that you're hanging your hat on, can't give us an example either.

And, a manufacturer isn't going to want you or any competitor to know how they can achieve a UL fire rating

The few companies using ceramic wool (mostly gun safe manufacturers) are bragging about it, openly, on their websites.

I know what manufacturers use, because I can see it with my own two eyes. I may not know the exact ingredients, but I can clearly see the difference between cast and ceramic wool. I have never seen, nor have any of the other professionals that I know, a UL listed safe using ceramic wool as its primary insulation.

and since UL is paid by their customers and likely have had to sign a confidentiality agreement, they are not permitted to share the customer specific information so that shouldn't be a surprise.

I get it. All of the companies using cast insulations are public knowledge. I can list them all here if you would like. All of the companies using ceramic insulations are top secret. Nobody knows, and nobody will ever say, except the gun safe manufacturers (that don't have UL fire ratings).
 
I'm glad I invested 5 minutes in order to be educated.

I called Mr. Koepke, who was nice enough to speak with me for a few minutes.

When asked if a safe existed, that had a UL fire rating, which used solely ceramic wool as its insulation, his reply was "I can not answer that question one way or another".

Even when offered the opportunity to answer that question yes, or no, without mentioning any names, he repeated that they were under contractual obligation not to disclose any material used in any safe submitted to them for testing, which includes materials not used.

Seems to me like they have a tight lip policy. I wonder why he blabbed to other callers, and not to myself.
 
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