Gun oil problems

I just use Eezox on all parts and TetraGrease on the slide/frame area. Very little amount is needed to get the results desired. Ultimate protection from friction and corrosion.

I used to use RemOil. But it just didn't hold up long and I noticed accelerated wear. I found what I liked and the products have proven results without question....at least in my experience and research I've done.
 
In my humble opinion, based on my experience, RemOil is the nearest to nothing oil for lubing firearms, next only to 3-in-1 oil. I use Mobil 1, 15W50, exclusively. Caveat: Doesn't take as much Mobil 1 as thin, crappy oils like RemOil.
 
I think Rem Oil is a fine product. I have used it on all of my firearms for many years and not a spec of rust on any of them. I do not have a 1911 though, so I can't speak about that.
 
Liked the results of Brian48's link. Was kinda interesting where WD-40 came out.

For myself - if the gun is going into he in closet/safe for a bit then Outers grease is the way to go. For day to day storage I use Hoppes oil or Outers oil. For lube in a benign environment, Hoppes oil. For lube in a harsh environment, Molybdenum powder. For a quick wipedown where I will shoot the next day or so I spray WD-40 on a rag and wipe the gun down. For a gun that took an unintended bath (river, ocean, mudpuddle) then a serious douche with WD40 (followed by a real cleaning)...
 
I use the Remi on the outside and Mi-tec on the inside. I started a thread about this not to long ago and decided to stop with the Remi for internals and rails.
 
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Thanks to all, I am rethinking my use of Rem-oil and I think I will switch to Break-free, or use plain old Outer's
 
When I look at preserving gun metal I consider three things:
rust prevention
dust and dirt pickup
wear protection.

oils will protect from rust but may not protect heavy wear areas and will slow down actions in cold weather and will pick up dirt

Greases same as oils but will protect from wear better

Teflon/ moly lubes leave a wear resistant and slick DRY surface after the solvent carrier evaporates. This film does not pick up dirt or slow down actions as much as the oils and grease in cold weather and will protect from rust.

I too, having been brought up with standard oils, feel more secure (false?) with a oily coating but I use moly and teflon on my firearms.

It would be great to see the kind of test run on the above criteria..
 
I used Rem oil on a Remington 870 slug barrel, brand new in the box. Within a week I could see signs of rusting forming. I cleaned the barrel with Kroil and a nylon brush, degreased it and then coated it with a light coating of Weapons Shield. 1 year and 5 months later, no rust.

http://www.weaponshield.com/products.htm

For internal lubrication of action parts, I'm following the advice of gunsmith Grant Cunningham and using ATF applied with a syringe tool. Exterior protection is by Weapons Shield, but I will also use Hoppe's or Outers gun oil.
 
I think that long term storage results would be important to alot of people here, presumably in combat or carry, you are checking and cleaning or wiping down the gun on a daily basis anyway. With that frequent/daily rejuvination of the protection, heck, even WD-40 might be enough. Not that I recommend that, but it might work anyway.
 
The best oils these days don't thicken much in cold temperatures nor get too thin in hot temperatures. There are a few made to meet military specifications and the military isn't big on products that won't work in extreme heat or extreme cold.

It's true that "wet" oils (oils that stay wet after application) will tend to attract dirt and grit which can contribute to wear. How much of an issue that is depends on how often maintenance/cleaning can be reasonably performed and on how adverse the environment is.

Oils, even the best ones, tend to not provide the same level of lubrication as even a light grease and have less of a tendency to stay put.

Greases DO tend to thicken with cold and can cause malfunctions. Greases also are not usually as good as oils for corrosion prevention because they don't penetrate into the nooks and crannies like a good oil will.

So what to do? Here's what I do, for whatever it's worth.

I use oils for rust prevention on internals (light coat so there's not a lot of dirt pickup). I wipe pretty much any internal part down with a light coat of oil and that does double-duty as a rust preventive and light lubricant.

For external surfaces prone to rust I rely on frequent wipedowns, usually with a silicone impregnated cloth. That prevents a lot of dust/debris pickup, at least on the exposed surfaces. I wipe the gun down with a good gun oil when I clean it and then use a silicone cloth in between cleanings.

For light duty lubrication I rely on oils, usually just the light coating put there for rust prevention.

For heavy duty lubrication--where there are obvious wear points, I use a light moly grease I make myself from Breakfree CLP and very fine moly powder. The Breakfree is designed not to thicken excessively in cold (it contains the same synthetic oil as Mobil 1) and the moly is a dry lube that is unaffected by cold or heat. In addition, moly is a very good steel-to-steel lubricant. It tends to stay put when mixed with a light gun oil and there's very little required to do the job.
 
I don't use Mobil 1 for rust-prevention, just lubrication. Funny, but I don't get rust on my firearms. I just keep them in a safe with a Golden Rod. I do use Rustpruf or CLP occasionally for protecting blued firearms.
 
I think that's a good point to make. Although all this discussion about oil itself is interesting, it works best when used in conjunction with other rust preventative measures.

Unfortunately, I cannot run a Goldenrod in my safe due to lack of powersource, so I use three of these Remington mini-dehumidiers. Much more convenient than using dessicant packs

I also use this product as well: VCI Bull Frog Emitter Shield which is essentially a vapor shield. It's cheap and last for about a year before you need to replace it.
 
Funny, but I don't get rust on my firearms. I just keep them in a safe with a Golden Rod.
I've never owned a dehumidifier. I just wipe my guns down with CLP and put them in the safe. I've never done anything special for long term storage and have never had one rust in the safe even after years. That's in spite of the fact that this area (North East Texas) is known for being pretty humid.
Although all this discussion about oil itself is interesting, it works best when used in conjunction with other rust preventative measures.
Premium gun oils contain very effective rust preventatives, the best of them give up nothing significant in terms of rust prevention compared to the best rust preventatives nor anything significant in terms of lubrication compared the best synthetic oils (since they usually contain the best synthetic oils).

I've never found it necessary to use a dedicated oil and a dedicated rust preventive for that reason. I just picked one product that does both jobs extremely well. There are a couple out there that meet that description.
 
over the years

I've repeatedly observed Rem Oil fail in extreme cold at USPSA matches (www.gmps.ws)

I have observed a few others, even modern 'hi-tech' choices, fail in those same conditions.

I have never observed BreakFree CLP fail, whether auto or revolver.
I am NOT suggesting "BreakFree is Best"; I AM suggesting it should be applied before each outing, and it works.

FWIW, in Janunary friend's up-til-then flawless Custom Shop Kimber go slide-sluggish with Hoppes, but an application of my Corrosion X restored it to full function.
 
For heavy duty lubrication--where there are obvious wear points, I use a light moly grease I make myself from Breakfree CLP and very fine moly powder. The Breakfree is designed not to thicken excessively in cold (it contains the same synthetic oil as Mobil 1) and the moly is a dry lube that is unaffected by cold or heat. In addition, moly is a very good steel-to-steel lubricant. It tends to stay put when mixed with a light gun oil and there's very little required to do the job.
What kind of ratio do you use?
 
I don't have a recipe. I just add enough CLP to the moly powder so that it will stick in place like grease would. I typically add some oil, mix & repeat until it looks to be a useful consistency.

By the way, you only need a very little of this stuff. I typically apply it with a very small screwdriver if it's going on a small area like a sear surface or just rub a very light coating on with my finger if it's going over a larger area.

It will almost eliminate wear even in heavy contact areas as long as the surfaces are reasonably smooth and moly is so slick that some sources recommend against applying it to precision trigger mechanisms.
 
My belief is that many of us older guys are so used to the older products that we fail to recognize the advanced technology that surrounds us.

Many lubricants/protectants are applicated using 'vehicles' that ensure their proper dispersal then evaporate. This does not reduce their effectiveness.

I live in a salt-air enviroment on the east coast of FL. My guns go offshore and into the Everglades. You'll always get some rust over the course of 50 yrs. and most of it came from old products. The new products are mostly better than anything that we've ever had, not being able to see it is rediculous.
 
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