Delaware_Dan
New member
I clean mine after every range trip, 200-500 rounds.
Gun cleaning.
- Thread starter Clevinger
- Start date
How often...
Clevinger,
Cleaning the gun (frequency) is up to you. It's like asking how often do you clean your house or your car. It all differs.
What's recommended? Basically, after a good shooting session should do. Some will clean after so many rounds (500) but it depends. If you go with this method it will depend how long it will take you to shoot 500 rounds. I mean I can shoot in 4 hours 500 rounds. Some others may take months. You really don't want to wait months to clean your gun.
Paper towels: I recommend paper towels for the initial cleaning. Put as much of the cleaning stuff on and then wipe off. I usually will end up with my cloth towels for the final cleaning.
Do know that the gun is pretty well built to take abuse from shooting and cleaning it is not considered abuse.
Once you get it all cleaned put a nice light lube on it - be it grease, powder or oil or some other lubricant.
Clevinger,
Cleaning the gun (frequency) is up to you. It's like asking how often do you clean your house or your car. It all differs.
What's recommended? Basically, after a good shooting session should do. Some will clean after so many rounds (500) but it depends. If you go with this method it will depend how long it will take you to shoot 500 rounds. I mean I can shoot in 4 hours 500 rounds. Some others may take months. You really don't want to wait months to clean your gun.
Paper towels: I recommend paper towels for the initial cleaning. Put as much of the cleaning stuff on and then wipe off. I usually will end up with my cloth towels for the final cleaning.
Do know that the gun is pretty well built to take abuse from shooting and cleaning it is not considered abuse.
Once you get it all cleaned put a nice light lube on it - be it grease, powder or oil or some other lubricant.
btolliverjr
New member
well according to NJgunowner's defintions, these are idiotic statements
It is a good idea to use a bore cleaner on your brass/bronze brush. This is because it will aid in the cleaning process by breaking up the fouling and residue. However, you are not going to scratch the steel barell with brass or bronze. The steel of your barell is MUCH harder than either brass or bronze. Also, the hardness is not going to change whether it is wet or dry!
The only benifit of getting it "wet" is for its cleaning abilities. It will not change the hardness of the materials or the chance of scratching, which is ZERO!
It is a good idea to use a bore cleaner on your brass/bronze brush. This is because it will aid in the cleaning process by breaking up the fouling and residue. However, you are not going to scratch the steel barell with brass or bronze. The steel of your barell is MUCH harder than either brass or bronze. Also, the hardness is not going to change whether it is wet or dry!
The only benifit of getting it "wet" is for its cleaning abilities. It will not change the hardness of the materials or the chance of scratching, which is ZERO!Never said you would. It's the foreign particles that can be present that scratch when dry.
Guess they need some education. Have them contact me I have been shooting and cleaning since circa 1948.
BTW, I worked my life in the machine/tooling industry. I know a little about strength of materials, scratching metals, etc.
Your joking......are you sure
Last edited:
btolliverjr
New member
Yes, I'm sure! and no, I'm not joking.
I assume the "wet" you are referring to in a machine shop is cutting fluids and coolants. I didn't know that bore cleaners had the same properties and oils as machining cutting fluids
and no, I'm not joking. I assume the "wet" you are referring to in a machine shop is cutting fluids and coolants. I didn't know that bore cleaners had the same properties and oils as machining cutting fluids
I admit am lost. I have used all of the above, but the "same properties" is too broad. But yes you can use bore cleaner as a cutting cooling fluid. You can also use water with mineral oil, virtually any oil on the planet, milk, Orange juice, well you get the idea. Still not sure how this all really relates, but I have been lost before.
For what it's worth....no.
btolliverjr
New member
well the bottom line is......A brass or bronze brush is not going to scratch or harm the inside of a steel barell!
btolliverjr
New member
Why don't these dry "foreign partlicles" scratch the barell when a speeding bullet goes flying down it at over 1,000 ft/s with great pressures???
First, some marks or scratching does occur. Fortunately the bullet is a tight fit and cleans as it goes.
But I detect we are going in circles. I am going to be diplomatic. I am old so that's hard for me. Lets just say we are different levels of understanding of what and how metal can be damaged. Remind me to tell you sometime about how you can cut hard steel (65-70 RC) in half using soft copper wire. Anyway we are just spinning wheels.
My note to the OP to use the bore brush wet still stands.
PS. In my retirement I have been considering applying to the UN as a diplomat. My wife says don't bother.
btolliverjr
New member
I will agree to a truce. lol but just so you know I am an engineer and have a good knowledge of strength of materials including their tensile strengths and hardnesses. I also know of the wire EDM process you are talking about. Also, graphite is used on EDMs to burn hardened steel (I'm sure you know this, but others who are reading may not. Yeah, pretty cool how it works) Anyway, I do have knowledge of the topic. I'm not just blowing smoke out of my ass
OK, I agree to a truce. I am also a retired mechanical engineer. But not in the firearms industry. Always wanted to design gun parts, but got stuck designing manufacturing machines.
BTW, wire EDM will cut hard steel, but actually I was talking about normal soft copper wire passing over hard steel. Anyway long story.
Fobus Holsters
I have a Kimber Custom II, and a while ago i took it to the gunsmith to have him do a complete detail cleaning and when it came back it looked like new, and he was even able to remove what I though was wear marks on the slide.
Turns out the marks were from my Fobus holster, I guess the plastic the holster is made of rubs off into the pores of the coating or steel of the handgun.
But for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove it like the gunsmith did, seems like I have tried everything, is there some kind of special solvent or cleaner? Or is it just a closely guarded gunsmith secret?
I have a Kimber Custom II, and a while ago i took it to the gunsmith to have him do a complete detail cleaning and when it came back it looked like new, and he was even able to remove what I though was wear marks on the slide.
Turns out the marks were from my Fobus holster, I guess the plastic the holster is made of rubs off into the pores of the coating or steel of the handgun.
But for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove it like the gunsmith did, seems like I have tried everything, is there some kind of special solvent or cleaner? Or is it just a closely guarded gunsmith secret?
Okay. One more answer to settle and argument between me and my brother in law. He says that his cleaning rods are made of brass and aluminum and because of this, they are both softer metal then the barrel and thusly he will/can not harm the gun while cleaning from the muzzle end.