Gun Cleaning... Is this a considerable practice?

Its not a good solvent anymore / never intended to be really ( and the mfg changed the formula about 10 yrs ago / it used to have propane in it as a propellant ...so it used to break down some of the carbon, etc a lot better than it does now)...now it's propellant is CO2...but the only thing its really good for is to help displace water..

It also leaves a "waxy" residue behind if you use it ...

I don't use it to clean any gun internals, handgunds - shotguns etc --- but I will spray the exterior of a shotgun down with WD-40 -- especially the wood stocks, after I've cleaned it, and after its assembled - and then wipe it down with a soft cloth before I put the shotgun back in my safe. Some guys will flinch when I tell them I do that too ...they just use a lightly oiled cloth to do the same thing.
 
WD-40 stands for Water Displacement formula 40. It does that pretty well, but not much more. It's best used on metals that have been exposed to fog, rain or water as a temporary corrosion preventative until you can clean and oil the gun. It's lubrication properties are lightweight (poor) but it can seep into tiny spaces to help lubricate temporarily (such as door locks).

Most gun oils are okay. You want them thinner than regular "motor" oil so they creep into tight tolerance spaces and coat contact points. Pressure loading in most firearms seldom, if ever, require some kind of super-duper friction eliminator.

Gunsmith Grant Cunningham recommends Dexron® ATF (transmission fluid) as a lubricant. It's thin and viscous enough to put a good lubrication coating even in tight tolerance areas. It has detergents to keep dirt (powder residue) in suspension and it prevents corrosion. It doesn't have any paraffin components to cause gumming up when the oil evaporates. And it's cheap compared to many brand name gun oils.

Lightweight "household" oils such as 3-in-1, WD-40, etc, do have paraffin compounds that will allow gum or varnish formation if allowed to dry for several months.

DIY Cleaning kit:
  • Cleaning rod - I prefer one without a pivoting handle on the end so I can scrub stubborn fouling easier.
  • Bronze bore brush - Avoid plastic brushes as they can seldom scrub off stubborn leading. Avoid stainless steel ("tornado") brushes as they may scratch the metal. Bronze is softer than steel.
  • Cotton patches - These are absorbent and soft, lots of surface area to hold solvent or oil. Synthetics, IMO, leave fiber strands at the least little rough spot or sharp edge.
  • Powder Solvent - Most are good. Some are better. They are all designed to remove powder residue. They're thin enough to help get under & lift lead deposits to aid in lead removal but that's the brush's job. Hoppe's, Rig 44, Shooter's Choice, etc. Try them all and use the one you like best.
  • Lubricant for internals - As noted above, Dexron® ATF works fine.
  • Light grease - Wear protection for reciprocating parts such as a pistol's slide or a rifle's op-rod. I've found Tetra® grease works for me, but so does Hoppe's. Both are fairly cheap.
  • Oil or corrosion protectant for the outside surfaces - Break free, Weapons Sheild, and similar gun "oils" are fine. Some swear by products like Boeshield® (Boeing aircraft), Corrosion-X (Marine supply houses) or simply a good carnuba wax.
  • Toothbrush - Surplus "G.I. Weapons Toothbrush" or a "hard" rated consumer toothbrush for reaching into hard to get places and scrubbing.
  • Oiling rod or "syringe" - an oiling rod is simply a small piece of metal with a knob or handle. It is used to deposit a drop of oil to locations "down inside" the action neatly. A "syringe" applicator designed for oil with a narrow 1" or longer tip works too. (Tip: medical syringes use a rubber seal that will break loose in oil. Their useful lifetime is very limited.)

Warning for nickel-plated gun owners: Avoid using any "copper remover" solvents with nickel guns. Minimize exposure to all solvents by wiping them off the nickel finish as soon as possible. Some solvents may cause a "milky clouding" of the finish. Solvent will find any crack or pinhole to seep under. Copper cleaning compounds will deteriorate any copper base applied before the nickel and cause peeling. If your plating has cracks, clean that area with an alcohol patch, dry and cover with paper and cellophane tape (the paper to prevent the tape from peeling the plating). Remove promptly after using solvents and wipe with another alcohol patch.

Stow your cleaning kit and supplies in a translucent flip-top box from Wal*Mart for about $3.
 
Range guns get cleaned every 1,000 rounds. If you lubricate a gun properly, it should run 1,000+ rounds without being touched. I run a Bore Snake through the barrel after shooting - but, that's it unil the next cleaning/lubrication.

EDC guns go out clean so there can be no questions about whether the gun was fired or not - for reasons stated in a previous post in the thread.
 
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