gp 100 DA question

MY 4IN gp100 WAS BUILT 6-18-2011. I did alot of dry firing and shot about 1000 RDS.The trigger is smooth in da all most as good as my S&W 28-2!Ruger has come a long way in thier triggers!And they seem to be getting better every year.
 
Your trigger may be a little tiny bit smoother but your hand is now much stronger. If cycling the action really "smoothed out" the parts like people believe then the gun would wear itself out pretty quickly. It takes a hard stone to smooth steel parts that are hardened like the steel used in guns.
 
Drail,
Continued use of the action does smooth out minor manufacturing rough spots, it's not just your hand getting stronger.
It polishes the mating surfaces.
Not a matter of wearing out parts quickly.
Denis
 
Learn how to time the break and you can make very accurate shots DA.
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DA trigger in my stainless is a stiff but smooth pull. Timing, however, helps alot. FIL and I were attempting to replicate the double .357 shot from Top Shot (Season 1?).

Using both his and mine I was able to do it by listening for, or rather, feeling the minute vibration from the cylinder stop re-engaging just before the trigger was about to break and timing both guns accordingly to break at the same time.

Works just as well when you are only shooting one;)
 
Quote:
Learn how to time the break and you can make very accurate shots DA.
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DA trigger in my stainless is a stiff but smooth pull. Timing, however, helps alot.
Click to expand...

I disagree. Timing the break, AKA "staging" the trigger, is a bad, albeit common habit. It's attempting to time the shot, which target shooters all agree is futile and counterproductive. It's no different with a DA revolver.

If your action's smooth but you're more accurate when you stage, it's because you haven't mentally committed to the shot before you've begun the shot. With proper trigger control, if your sight picture is good as you begin the DA pull, it'll be good when the shot breaks, so there's nothing to be gained (and a lot to be lost) by staging. Commit, and pull straight through.
 
I typically choose Rugers over Smith due to the ergonomics... I know them to have a consistantly average trigger no matter how many rounds fired. If you want a trigger that gets sweeter over the years, get a Smith. This is comming from a Ruger guy.
 
Light is not exactly ideal, smooth is. To lighten the pull, springs will be required. However, I can say that from experience I will take uniformity any day over a lighter spring tension.
 
It's not that hard to get competent with the GP100's DA trigger. It doesn't seem any harder than a K frame S&W and it's much easier than a Security/Speed Six.
I never attempt to stage or milk a DA trigger.
 
So put about 500 rounds through it and dry fire it a couple thousand times and you will get a feel, eh?

I got no issues with mine in a heavy barreled 6 incher...............

and I love ruger revolvers............but I'm no wizard (heck, I only got 3 posts)

:D

good stuff here
 
Does the newer gp's have a 10 lb trigger spring?
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The Wolfe spring kit I got had a 9, 10, and 12 pound trigger springs included so if that helps you figure out what factory is then great. The lightest 9 pound spring worked like a champ for me with no failure to fires. Smithy.
 
Gunn Smithyis right the OPs ? has barely been answered !!

The early GPs up to the mid 90 had a 12# trigger spring & later 10#.

But heres the problem , 1 end pushes on the trigger the other end pushes on the trigger gaurd housing lock latch.

It`s importatnt to get that latch to seat correctly everytime it`s removed from it`s seat .

A word of caution, if ya try to alter fit here & ya get it too loose then use a liter spring wha`ll happen is the trigger guard housing will unseat a bit under recoil, thus affecting DA/S trigger pulls.

I have even seen problems with this with factory spring because the owner put his favorite gun grease on the latch to make it easier to depress.
 
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