gp 100 DA question
- Thread starter Roundeye
- Start date
Hammerhead
New member
My new GP100 has about 400 rounds through it. Doesn't seem much lighter, but it is smoother. I'm not expecting mine to lighten, I just plan on getting used to it.
It wont lighten - your trigger finger will get stronger, and your mind will get used to the pull. It may (or may not) get a teensie bit smoother.
If it needs an action job, get an action job by a competent 'smith. And a good action job, btw, includes more than reducing pull weight. Besides, smooth is more important than light. I'd recommend just dry firing & shooting it for a little while before monkeying with the action.
Question: Is the trigger pull gritty or just not as light a pull as you would be prefer? Most double action trigger pulls on Rugers will run in the 14 pound range. If you dry fire the revolver enough or put enough rounds through the revolver the action will smooth up a bit. However it will never get lighter. The hammer spring on a GP100 is 14 lb. You can get aftermarket spring kits that will help some but nothing will make your action better except taking the revolver apart and smoothing the bearing surfaces of the trigger group. Unless you like to tinker I would leave this to a gunsmith.
Good luck,
Howard
Good luck,
Howard
In the days of old
They used to hand fit it all now it`s all MIM parts & alot of em need a little help to "burnish" or wear in .
Polishing is ok but don`t hit the sears with out a little exp. & the rite tools .
Look at Triggershimms.com & order some shimms for the trigger & hammer , shimming will make DA/SA pulls more consistent, be sure to leave .003" clearance & NO binding !
Shimming the hammer will stop frame drag marks onthe hammer& help hammer speed (helps liter springs be more reliable)
They used to hand fit it all now it`s all MIM parts & alot of em need a little help to "burnish" or wear in .
Polishing is ok but don`t hit the sears with out a little exp. & the rite tools .
Look at Triggershimms.com & order some shimms for the trigger & hammer , shimming will make DA/SA pulls more consistent, be sure to leave .003" clearance & NO binding !
Shimming the hammer will stop frame drag marks onthe hammer& help hammer speed (helps liter springs be more reliable)
Hammerhead
New member
The trick to getting a nice DA pull on a Ruger is all about finding all the burrs and rough surfaces Ruger seems to leave in their guns. And there will be a lot of them. Especially in the spring tunnel where the trigger spring rides. Some of the 90 degree corners are sharp enough to slice your finger open good. Once all the rough surfaces are smooth and the burrs broken you can play with springs and shims. Don't go too light on the springs, it won't really help and will introduce new problems such as light primer hits with some brands and a slow trigger reset. DON"T TOUCH the hammer hooks or sear surfaces unless you are an experienced smith. Rugers are great guns but they don't spend hardly any time deburring the machined parts.
But that's one of the reasons they are affordable.
But that's one of the reasons they are affordable.Lost Sheep
New member
What parts in the GP are MIM? What is your source for that information?GP100man said:
Yes, do not try to do much with the actual sear or try to take of more than a few molecules of metal. The surface hardness is important for longevity. If you get down below the surface, the metal is not as hard.
Lost Sheep
Ruger uses a lot of cast parts in their guns but I don't believe they have gone to MIM and I don't think they ever will. They don't need to. They have taken precision casting to a very high level and are able to do it at an acceptable cost. I have never had to replace a Ruger cast part that broke. Only if it finally wore itself out of spec from extreme use.
Duke City Six
New member
With about 1000 dry fires and about 600 rounds fired, my new GP seems to be SMOOTHING up some in double action. Or I'm getting used to the trigger. Or both. As far as MIM goes, I read recently that Ruger is using it on the "crane latch, cylinder latch and front sight".
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MIM is "made in mold" rite ?? Ruger is parent company of Pine tree casting co. & if they cut em from a solid block we`d never be abe to afford em !!
& very few parts show signs of CNCing.
As far as ordering shimms ya gotta do a little measureing with feeler gages the play in the hammer well & trigger housing will give some idea as to what`s needed
& very few parts show signs of CNCing.
As far as ordering shimms ya gotta do a little measureing with feeler gages the play in the hammer well & trigger housing will give some idea as to what`s needed
It takes about 10 minutes; 25 minutes if you watch both installation videos.
Go to triggershims.com and buy their shim and spring kit. Use the 11# hammer spring with 8# trigger return spring. Install the shims using grease. This will give you reliable primer ignition with a smoother pull.
Go to triggershims.com and buy their shim and spring kit. Use the 11# hammer spring with 8# trigger return spring. Install the shims using grease. This will give you reliable primer ignition with a smoother pull.
Jim Watson
New member
rong
It stands for Metal Injection Molding where powder metal in a plastic binder is molded like plastic and then solidified in a furnace. Not at all like the investment casting Ruger has done from about year two.
Super Sneaky Steve
New member
My GP has one of the best triggers. Learn how to time the break and you can make very accurate shots DA. I shoot that firearm better than anything else in my collection.
Ruger started going with MIMs in rifles somewhere around 10 years ago.
Currently, the SP has a MIM hammer, trigger, and cylinder latch. Possibly a couple other smaller internal parts.
The GP now has a MIM trigger & a MIM latch, but Ruger says there won't be a MIM GP hammer in the forseeable future because they decided the way it'd be made would look too oogly.
There are MIMs in the new American rifle, and in the Hawkeyes. Also the autopistols.
Ruger's adapting & finding for some uses MIMs are easier to make than cast parts and they say they're just as good while costing less to produce.
Denis
Forgot to mention they're also getting into more CNC, the American's receiver is CNC milled bar stock, not cast.
Currently, the SP has a MIM hammer, trigger, and cylinder latch. Possibly a couple other smaller internal parts.
The GP now has a MIM trigger & a MIM latch, but Ruger says there won't be a MIM GP hammer in the forseeable future because they decided the way it'd be made would look too oogly.
There are MIMs in the new American rifle, and in the Hawkeyes. Also the autopistols.
Ruger's adapting & finding for some uses MIMs are easier to make than cast parts and they say they're just as good while costing less to produce.
Denis
Forgot to mention they're also getting into more CNC, the American's receiver is CNC milled bar stock, not cast.
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contender4040
New member
yep on MIM
i fired off one of those ask the ceo deals on the ruger website last year on the mim rumor. he confirmed the trigger and a few other small parts. Before then, i held ruger above smith and wesson because of the mim debate.
Now, not so much.
Now i must either accept it to obtain new production or shop the used market to avoid it.......honestly, i don't know anymore if it is worth the hassle especially with the prices they are getting on used guns.
What the heck....i don't think i could shoot enough anymore to wear'em out....
i fired off one of those ask the ceo deals on the ruger website last year on the mim rumor. he confirmed the trigger and a few other small parts. Before then, i held ruger above smith and wesson because of the mim debate.
Now, not so much.
Now i must either accept it to obtain new production or shop the used market to avoid it.......honestly, i don't know anymore if it is worth the hassle especially with the prices they are getting on used guns.
What the heck....i don't think i could shoot enough anymore to wear'em out....