Gooey barrel 7.62x54r

Hoppe's is all I use to clean after corrosive. Not trying to start a huge debate or anything, but it works for me. Boresnake or rod and patches.

Regards,

-Mo.
 
Hoppe's is all I use to clean after corrosive. Not trying to start a huge debate or anything, but it works for me.
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The folks that make it say that it doesn't work for removing salts. Tests (linked above) confirm that it doesn't remove salts.

Good luck with that.
 
After firing 10 rounds (more with the Mauser) and cleaning with Hoppes, a boresnake and then with a light cost of oil in the bore, I've had zero rust develop in either my Mauser or my Mosin over a month or two of storage at times.

I stopped cleaning with water an ammonia last year.

Your mileage may vary.
 
I only use the boiling water rinse in my blackpowder rifles, as near the final step in cleaning {since it opens up the pores in the metal} --- followed by two dry patches --- letting the barrel cool; then an oil-down.

The dark sludge is residue from the dirty powder used in Com-Bloc ammo. I usually first start a run of cotton flannel patches soaked in Simple Green cleaning solution down the pipe until they come out clean --- then I go back to my normal brush and patch work as I normally do after shooting non-corrosive ammo.

Gunzilla will also remove the primer salts, and is said to be a non-explosive vegetable {I do like the smell} based cleaner and lubricant, that can remove a wooden stock's finish. I also use Gunzilla especially for gas tube cleaning.
 
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After firing 10 rounds (more with the Mauser) and cleaning with Hoppes, a boresnake and then with a light cost of oil in the bore, I've had zero rust develop in either my Mauser or my Mosin over a month or two of storage at times.

I stopped cleaning with water an ammonia last year.

Your mileage may vary.
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Sorry, but that is meaningless. Depending on how your rifles are stored you may not see rust even if the corrosive salts remain.

I live in the desert, I could probably get away with not cleaning at all after shooting corrosive ammo, the humidity here is low enough that it would take a long time for rust to appear. Doesn't mean it is a good idea.

Again, the people that make Hoppe's say that it doesn't dissolve corrosive salts. I believe them.

Anecdote ≠ data.

on edit: Go down to Figure 43 here, the test strip cleaned with Hoppe's
https://web.archive.org/web/2007070...srifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index2.asp

To quote the test: "Probably one of the worst test strips seen with very heavy rust formation on the treatment areas."

on edit part 2: make sure you read the last page of that test, it addresses you directly https://web.archive.org/web/2007063...srifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index5.asp

Some of you are thinking, hogwash, I have used XYZ solvent for 10 years with no rust formation. Ah, do read on….

At the beginning of the article I mentioned that I had done some initial testing using a higher temp and what I thought was going to be higher humidity. I went and re read the chapter that Julian Hatcher wrote in his book “Hatcher’s Notebook” and found out that in their testing of corrosion, they found that corrosion only formed at a humidity of 68% and greater.

Many of you probably looked at the images above of your favorite solvent (like Hoppe’s No 9) and simply did not believe what you saw. But in order to prove a point I did one more series of tests with applying salt and then cleaning with each solvent.
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Make sure you look at Figure 161, the high humidity test of what steel cleaned with Hoppe's looked like after only 8 hours.
 
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I didn't think the "pitting" that happens from corrosive salts had anything to do with rust.......maybe I am wrong, but I though I was because those little particles are "corrosive", doesn't mean they will cause rust while eating into your steel

BTW...your method is surely fine, not trying to change your mind, don't care either way. just curious if "rust" is the only indicator that the salts are having negative effect on your bore
 
I've not had much problem with rust or pitting with this rifle, so I'm not sure. I did forget to clean it a time or two and it developed some surface rust. I have some "frost" at the chamber end of the barrel that has always been there, but nothing major.

Now that I think about it, it might be in my best interest to switch over to something water based like Hoppes Plus. I can get stubborn quite easily.

I might just do that, I never did like pouring water down the bore.It'd be another line of defense against rust/pitting.

Apologies for my stubborness.

Regards,

-Mo.
 
Except that it doesn't do much for removal of crusty fouling, perhaps I'll resort to so called "moose milk", 6 parts water to 1 part Ballistol, next time I go at this.

FWIW, I cleaned it to nice and shiny again, what? A week ago? Finished with a patch of CLP. I looked down the bore again this morning and it was starting to look fuzzy again. So I disassembled the gas system, concerned as I was about the regulator, no issues I could spot there.

Perhaps like one of the previous contributors said, perhaps this is a copper mine or something. Lord knows I'm sure getting tired of cleaning without shooting! LOL.

Except that it has a gas port in the barrel I would consider attacking it with some JB compound. I may do that anyways.
 
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I have found that cleaning, then running a couple patches through the next couple days, does the best. I do use hot water as soon as I can after shooting corrosive ammo. The hot water usually heats up the barrel so much, it can't be touched for long, and it dries out pretty fast. Then follow-up with normal cleaning. I use home made Ed's Red.
 
I live in the desert, I could probably get away with not cleaning at all after shooting corrosive ammo, the humidity here is low enough that it would take a long time for rust to appear. Doesn't mean it is a good idea.
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This.

You could shoot corrosive-primer ammo, place the rifle in a near zero humidity environment, and you'd see very little corrosive effects initially.

Put that rifle in someone's garage here in FL in the summer, look out...

Again, think SALT. Hygroscopic- they both pull available moisture from the atmosphere which causes them to dissolve.
 
Flush with boiling water then clean as usual. I think the only thing ammonia does is work on the copper buildup in the barrel.
 
I've been through my Mosin at least 15 times. Used Windex the first 10 times. I scrub the bore then use WD40 to displace the water in the Windex. Then I use Shooters Choice and clean like any other rifle. My Mosin bore still doesn't come as clean as my other rifles.
 
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